Turn signal and steering wheel adjustment ?s

[Mike Kast]

After putting my steering rack and suspension back together my turn signal isn't shutting off after I straighten out.
Did I break something or did something somehow get disconnected?
And... When I reconnected the steering I didn't have the wheel straight so now when I'm driving straight the wheel is at about 4 o'clock. Can I just remove the steering wheel and correct it or should I disconnect it from the smugglers box?
It still needs alignment so I may just wait on that anyway but I was wondering what way is easier.
Thank you gentlemen.

[john70t]

I thought there was a little tab on the steering column(?) so that when the wheel was straitened, it moved a small block which had held the turn-light contacts out.

Unplug the horn before replacing the wheel

[Silveresrty911S]

The tab on mine is on the back of the steering wheel and installing a smaller circumference steering wheel on some turns won't knock it back to the neutral position.
Just remove the steering wheel, staighten tires first and move it a few splines towards the direction it's off, go drive her and see if it's centered. You might have to do this twice and then mark the shaft and wheel so this won't happen next time.

[Mike Kast]

Let me make sure I understand you guys. Your both voting for streightening the wheel from inside the cab right? The thing about the signal switch is I never removed the wheel from inside the cab. I'm curious as to how the swich may have gotten disconnected in the first place. Maybe by overturning when the steering rack was disconnected? hmmmmmmmm... don't know

[Gunter]

Since you started the job by disconnecting the steering column from the U-joint (Smugglers box) I would re-center the steering wheel by going back to the same U-joint. Make sure that the wheels are straight by rolling the car back & forth a few times, then tighten up. That way, you don't miss the "Sweet spot" on the rack. During alignment, the shop will hold your steering wheel straight with a device and move the tie-rods as needed to bring the road wheels into alignment. That is the time when you decide how much toe you want. Porsche recommends 0 toe and 0 camber but most people go for somewhere between 1/16 and 1/8 inch toe-in (positive) and 1/2 to 1 deg negative camber in front. Do a search for what best suits you for the rear. 0 toe with 1 deg. negative camber? A nearly full tank and nearly new tires plus good tie-rods/balljoints are best before an alignment.

[Mike Kast]

thanks Gunter, Any clue about the blinker?

[Gunter]

With the steering wheel centered, the "shut-off" tab will be in the right place and once again function. If you have not installed the bump-steer kit, do it before any alignment because, the 1/2 inch spacer pushes the rack up and it is recommended that the U-joint spline be losened so the column can slide a little. Anytime, before opening that U-joint, the road wheels should be straight and the steering wheel held in place so you won't lose the right setting.

[Mike Kast]

thanks Doc, I did a front end overhaul minus new torsion bars including bump steer so... This week I'll be getting the new front tires installed alignment, ride height adjusted up to euro spec, and corner balanced.
The sport shocks with the stock torsions are really ruff. But I'll make due for as long as I can stand it. It's nothing but a money thing.

[Mike Kast]

OK! I'm a dumb a$$, I tried to center the steering wheel by way of the smug box but the bolt only fits back through the collar in one spot. The wheel is out because of the way I reinstalled the rack itself. I think the main shaft that comes out of the rack has 3 screws holding it to the rack and I must have put that shaft on 1/3rd off. Because that is how far off the wheel is.
I have to do this by way of the steering wheel.

[john70t]

Mike I know how you feel. All the details get scrambled with the time frame. Best thing now is to start from scratch.

Forget the steering column.

-is the rack-to-frame completely secure with lockwashers(?)/grade8bolts(?)/locktight(?)

-Are the tie rods-to-rack secured with the spacers installed? This protects the rack from sliding too far either way. Does that connection use any color locktight(?)

-Are the tie rod ends connected by the same number of threads? This could be hazardous, or affect how the road feels.

-Now the wheels may be slightly toe'd way,way off, but the steering rack is solid.

-Roll the car forward a few feet on flat ground to get a ballpark and reinstall the steering column and wheel temporarly in the centered position.

-Toe the wheels to make it drivable to the alignment shop. Do this by gluing some long nails upright on the ends of 2 yardsticks.

-Put the points of the nails in the center of the front area of the tires and clamp the 2 yardsticks together with a vise grip.

-Mark the overlap and be careful not to bump anything.

-Next, check the back part of the tire using this template. Zero toe in front (both front wheels exactly parallel) will get you down the road, but with a FWD car the toe should be slightly inwards/positive by a 1/16th inch.

[Mike Kast]

It's all tight and torqued to specs with blue loctite. I've been driving it for a week now. The first two days I was really cautious, then I lifted it up and checked it over again. Then I started driving her the way she was meant to be driven The alignment is a little out I'm sure and I have a bent rim so she ain't right but still felt better than ever. Wednesday morning I'm getting new tires and rim, corner balanced, aligned and raised back up to 1/2 inch below euro spec. I just need to center that damn steering wheel.
You freaked me out when I read "let's start from scratch" LOL... scratch started 2 months ago... I know where your coming from and I appreciate it. I think??? lol

Thanks