Body work and Paint

[William Miller]

I have an 83 ROW SC CAB
I rebuilt the engine last year and it finally runs like a Porsche.
Now I'm only ashamed at how it looks. (Not really but that sounded good.)
It's time to paint and replace the carpet and rubber seals.
The top is in good shape since the PO replaced it not too long ago.

I need some advice on this restoration. First it will not be concorse, but I drive it daily so I want it to look as good as I can get it. I've done this before and will do all disassembly/ assembly and almost all the body work. I'll probably pay a pro to do final touches on the dings and spray it.

I restored a 63 E-type this way in the mid 80's and it was a very econimical approach.

A few questions and some info on doing this in 2004 on an 83 911:
I live on the east coast in Maryland just outside D.C.
I've looked for body parts on e-bay and the shipping from the west coast is killing most of those deals.

Here is what I need: The left front fender has 2 areas of rust. Above the headlight bucket and at the lower rear edge. I see pelican now sells the buckets, but how do the y get installed into an existing fender? This will leave a piece of steel to be patched in at the top just behind the bucket. The lower rear edge can be patched in without too much trouble. This is much less expensive than finding a used fender which I've seen from $250 - 500. By the time I get it shipped.

The left (drivers) door has a pretty good crease in it and some other dings. The check strap area is messed up and probably needs a kit. I see door skins are avalible, but have never installed one. It looks like more work than replacing the whole door with a new one If I can find one.
How are these installed? are they welded or are the edges folded over with a tool? How much work is it?

My front trunk lid has been repaired in the past since I can see some dammage on the inside It looks fine from the outside.
These seem easier and cheaper to find then the fenders.

These are the worst of it other than normal stripping/sanding and ding repair associated with this type of project.

The front valance looks loke it was peppered with a skatter gun.
It does not have the fog lights recessed. will the 84-89 carerra bolt right on?

Any Ideas and help are appreciated. Anyone on the east coast with any of these parts let me know!
Thanks!

[Series900]

the hdl bucket is spotwelded inside the lip, just a couple. sure go ahead, cut it open and weld in a bucket. Make sure you seal it well from the inside and at the rubber seal area after or the rust will be back.

the aftmkt door skins are not oem, they leave a bit to be desired around the door handle. they crimp 2/3 around and spot weld along the door edge.

84/89 valance is a bolt on.

I would not hesitate on getting rust free takeoffs from the west coast, its worth it in the long run.

I did this E type for Gary Hagopian, current prez of JCNA


I can dig around for some pics of aftmkt door skin install...good doors would be better

[William Miller]

Thanks,
Your making me want to get out my E-type pictures.
I did a double take when I first saw #31.
It's a very different look without the bumpers and wire wheels.
If they could produce that car today, it would probably sell very well.
O'yea they do. Sort of.
It's amazing that the design was timeless. Mine was a 63 it's amazing, that would make it over 40 years old!
I'm going to try and track it down!

Damon, there is a used parts place up your way.
Have you been there?

[Series900]

Wiiliam, call dc automotive in ct, Rob is moving his biz to NC, and I am sure there is some liquidating 18005792410

#31 is one bad e type! 300hp six w/ford 5 speed, glass bonnet, 13" rotors,suspension mods to prevent the wallowing of narrow wheel track along with weird control arm movement the rear suspension provides! Those are 18" XJR wheels, a far cry from the stock skinny wire wheels. A great autox'r and track car, next is a supercharger!