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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Royal Oak, MI
Posts: 146
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door stay reinforecment- stripped threads
I ordered the door stay reinforcement kit and two new door stays to do the upgrade described in the 101 projects book. All went smoothly on door number one, except one of the new nuts on the new door stay never really tightened down like the other one, just kept on turning - which leads me to believe it or the bolt on the door stay is stripped.
Also, the door is really STIFF right now. It seems like the door stay is attached really well and doesn't appear to be suffering from the stripped nut. So, should I: 1. Leave it alone. 2. Put in the old door stay back in with the new reinforcement kit. 3. Order a new door stay. I don't really want to do this (another $35 or so with shipping). Thanks, Jim Chatfield |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 480
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First, when you say stiff, I assume you mean when the bulge in the stay has to sqeeze through the plastic clamp (1/2 way open hold position). If this is the case, you need to grind the bulge down with a dremel, hand or table mounted grinder. Filing will take forever. I had to take my stay out, disassemble the housing, remove the stay, grind it down significantly, and replace. Works much easier and smoother. If I had left it, I think i would have torn the sheet metal right out.
Also, I cranked those bolts in very tight. There was plenty of resistance as the sheet metal was bent back into position. but it eventually tightened right up. That could be happening to you as well.
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CWL '86 Carrera Coupe '88 Carrera Cab '02 525i Sedan |
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Hollywoodland
Posts: 468
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Hi Jim,
Are you sure you stripped it? Is it possible that you could have missed the alignment of one of the bolts? Those bolts should be a tight fit and it took me a little while to align the bolt once I had the new door stay along with the reinforcement plates. Sounds weird. I'd take it apart and try putting the screws in without it in the door that way you'd know if it was stripped for sure. |
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Seattle--->ShangHai
Posts: 2,837
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If you did strip it, just get a longer bolt, a nut and a washer. One of the bolts on my driver side stripped out treads on the OE plate. Removed door pocket and speaker, bolted on new nut and washer and alls well.
Total cost $0.56 + tax. While you have the door pocket out, do this fix: Cracked door pockets zip tie fix alf
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88 Carrera Coupe Pelican Since 2002 All Zing, No Bling. ok, maybe a little bling. The Roach |
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I second the dremel down the bump method. There are two bumps and if you only care about the 1st bump (door opens ~45°) then you can get to the bump with the stay installed. If you want/need to get the second bump (door fully open) it's tight to get access to the last trailing edge of the bump. I ground only the 1st bump and while the mechanic hates it, I never fully open the car door (into another car, for instance) anyway. You'll need to use masking tape, or something else, to keep grinding grit/metal bits out of the check strap mechanism. Of course, complete R&R to grind the bumps is another option.
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'76 2.7-->3.2 |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Royal Oak, MI
Posts: 146
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Chris: Yes - that is my definition of stiff, so I'll have to grind down the two bumps.
Steve: I like the idea of removing it and threading the nut on off the car to see if it is stripped. I'm sure I am not out of alignment, because it was quite difficult to get both bolts threaded in. Alf: New, longer bolt - great idea. Thanks for all the advice guys- I need pelicanite advice to engage my brain sometimes! Jim |
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