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Formerly bb80sc
 
Vipergrün's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Hollywood Beach, CA
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Where to buy hose for brake cooling?

Hello all...

Well, it's time to work on my next mod....brake cooling. I got a little fade/soft pedal at Willow this past week.

I recently ordered the hub block off plates and rotor backing plates which will accept a 2.5" hose for cooling. I plan on removing the fog lights in my 930S valance and fabricating something I can attach the hose to there as well.

Where can I purchase hose for this application?

How about some 'scoops' that would fit in an opening the size of a fog light?

Thanks for your input..

-b

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Old 03-06-2004, 09:01 PM
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www.ihoz.com


Edit:


Correct web site is www.ihozs.com
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Last edited by Chuck Moreland; 03-07-2004 at 08:01 AM..
Old 03-06-2004, 09:05 PM
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Just don't use the brakes as much
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Old 03-06-2004, 09:06 PM
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Formerly bb80sc
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by campbellcj
Just don't use the brakes as much
Hmm, between you saying that and CStreit telling me I can push it harder, I should be able to get much lower lap times

Chuck, you sure about that link? It's a bunch of ZZYZX stuff....interesting, non-the-less.

-b
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Old 03-06-2004, 09:11 PM
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Brad, have you rebuilt all your brakes? I didn't have any problems at all.

The only brake cooling I'm going to go w/ is the brake air diverters like Jack & Tyson have. There was a recent thread on them, check it out.
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Old 03-06-2004, 09:24 PM
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Formerly bb80sc
 
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Hey Ryan, yeah, I rebuilt all four calipers and have new front rotors, all within the past 6K miles. Perhaps they just need to be bled off. I didn't even think to do that at the track. How did your brakes hold up at the short track? I think the cooling is a worthwhile upgrade anyway, especially as we get into Summer at Willow

-b
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Old 03-06-2004, 10:01 PM
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What kind of pads and fluid are you running?

Big Willow and even SOW are not known for being especially hard on brakes. Basically you're only touching the middle pedal briefly a few times out of a 1:15+ minute lap. My car has SC brakes and I've never (yet) faded 'em on the local tracks or canyon roads. Granted it is probably a bit lighter than your car, approx 2150lbs (?) on its way to 1900 if possible. However everything is rebuilt, new M/C, Pagid pads, Ate fluid, Goodrich stainless lines.

Nevertheless I'm going to install cooling ducts too before the summer, mainly for other tracks I might visit. AJ-USA has the rotor manifold thingies, and Smart-Racing has brackets that attach the hoses to the A-arms. That's assuming you have a front spoiler with duct inlets.

If not, I'd just buy the whole setup with "scoops" from AJ-USA.

If you just want the high-temp ducting by itself, Pegasus has it, and Summit or Jegs probably does too (and may be cheaper).
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Last edited by campbellcj; 03-06-2004 at 10:18 PM..
Old 03-06-2004, 10:16 PM
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Brad, My first thought was the same as the other guys, certainly nothing wrong w/ brake cooling vents, but if you were fading at Willow in this weather something else needs attention. I have driven big Willow and streets when it was 110F w/ stock SC brakes and no ducting and didn't notice any fade. In fact I always had to pit because of rising oil temps before brakes showed signs of fade.

What fluid are you running? ATE Blue or Gold is good stuff, needs to be changed completely once a year if street/light DE use, try to bleed them before any event. Are you sure that you don't have some air in them? Like Chris said, it's hard to get the brakes hot at Willow.

I'm planning on the 964 deflectors that Jack and Tyson have as well, I'll add cooling from there as needed for other tracks. Let me know if I can help.
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Old 03-06-2004, 10:56 PM
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Formerly bb80sc
 
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Hey guys, I am running Ferodo pads (which ever ones Pelican sells),
and ATE blue fuid. As I think back, I have not really bled rhe brakes off after any of the Mulhulland runs or track days since rebuilding the calipers. The rest of the miles were easy freeway miles. I suspect I may have some air bubbles in there. I'll bleed them off and will go from there.

Thanks!

-B
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Old 03-06-2004, 11:23 PM
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Not sure if Wayne sells this stuff, but you can get hose and ducts from these guys:

Quick Car

I/O Port

The BSR ducts worked great in my Ruf style f/g valence.

Don't skimp on the hose, get the good stuff that will hold up. Routing can be an issue, so take a look at Smart Racing's hose manifolds or make your own.
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Old 03-07-2004, 12:12 AM
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Brad: What kind of hose do you need? There's a product used on aircraft all the time called SCAT Duct. It's basically VERY durable air ducting. Here's a link: SCAT Duct.

Aircraft Spruce is local, and if they have it in stock they usually ship same day. When I order stuff, if I order it early enough it usually arrives the next day, or the day after at the latest.

I hope this helps.
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Old 03-07-2004, 06:43 AM
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In the Long Beach area, you can get hose OTC at Baker
Old 03-07-2004, 06:55 AM
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George, what is the BSR duct, I thought you had made your own?
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Old 03-07-2004, 07:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by bb80sc


Chuck, you sure about that link? It's a bunch of ZZYZX stuff....interesting, non-the-less.

-b
Doah!

Here is the correct web site

www.ihozs.com

I'm editing my original post too.
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Old 03-07-2004, 08:00 AM
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Formerly bb80sc
 
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Thanks all!! Some nifty stuff out there

-b
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Old 03-07-2004, 08:06 AM
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Have you tried Mcmaster-carr?
http://www.mcmaster.com/

Try page 171, for example. I don't know if that's the right type hose or not.
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Old 03-08-2004, 06:59 AM
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Appropriate hose to use is silicone that comes in red/orange to withstand high temp near the rotor. Here's a page from the catalog I use.

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pdfs/114.pdf

Old 03-08-2004, 07:27 AM
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