Grinding

[scoll911]

Rebuild complete, timing set and I was ready to take it for the first spin. As I went to put it in gear, I heard grinding. It won't go into gear any gear.

I adjusted the clutch at the clevis and undeneath -- I have the appropriate gap1.2 and 1.0. I do not get any where near 25mm of travel more like 20. I adjusted the nuts underneath from one end to the next.

Thoughts???

[Early_S_Man]

Check the coupler to see if the bushings have crumbled into particles on the tunnel floor???

Try threading the clevis a bit further onto the cable front end!

[scoll911]

Checked the couplers they are fine -- adjusted again still grinding. I even adjusted the cable aw far as I could and tightened the adjustment nut all the in, eliminating the 1.0 mm gap and then some. the wheels still turned when I tried to place it in gear.

During the rebuild, I didn't replace the clutch as it worked fine before. and left the pieces intact. Does this sound like a clutch problem?? I still do not have the 25 mm clearance. Only about 20 mm

[1974carrera]

If the pressure plate/clutch disc/ flywheel have been assembled for awhile they may be stuck together. If this is the case sometimes it can be freed up by placing the car in 5th gear and rocking the car back and forth while the clutch pedal is depressed. An alternate method is to start the car in gear, then drive around in 2nd gear with the clutch pedal depressed while gently accelerating and decelerating...if the disc is stuck to the pressure plate and flywheel it will usually break free after a bit of driving.
HTH

[scoll911]

they haven't this ia a rebuild waiting to hit the road . . .I'm debating whether to drop the engine and check the clutch fork. I would like to avoid this.

But I can't think of anything else???????

[Randy Webb]

What about those triangular oblong ports into the tranny - do you have those? They might allow you to see if certain problems exist w/o a drop.

[scoll911]

"triangular oblong ports" beats the heck out of me. But, I will defintely look tomorrow

[scoll911]

Anyway of checking clutch fork without dropping the engine?

[Tim L]

You should be able to take the long clutch lever off then check the small lever for free travel and be able to determine if the fork is engaged correctly.

Tim

[Randy Webb]

"triangular oblong ports"

OK, they are sort of diamond shaped (does regular trapezoid with rounded corners help?). They have 2 bolts in the ends - maybe M8's or so. Your tranny may or may not have these. They are access ports to something or other inside the tranny - I think you can check the engagment of some of the fingers with them. I don't know much about transmissions - all those gears and stuff scare me. I'd much rather rebuild an engine. Good luck.

[scoll911]

The throughout fork was not properly seated, which was causing the grinding. It looked there was no damage so I buckled everything back up and put the engine in.

I adjusted the clutch and although the pedal feels better it wtill won't disengage --- the odd part the clutch pedal does not come all of the way back.

Ideas??????????

[johnsjmc]

If you can lift the pedal back up with your toe ,then you have still got way too much slack in the cable.There is an over center spring in the pedal cluster that helps pull the pedal down at the beginning of the travel. Try to adjust the gap underneath with a helper holding the pedal up to allow all the slack to be removed(a block of wood under the pedal may work)

[78-911SC]

Had the same problom this week with mine. I found that the bushing under the shifter that holds the shift rod had disintegrated. Replaced and did what johnsjmc said and now works great. You can tie the clutch pedal the the steering wheel.