2.2s Engine Pulled out, What Else Should I Do?
 

I am planning on pulling out my 2.2 s motor to fix the major oil leak coming out of, what I believe is the intermediate shaft seal. So, i need to fix that by pulling the engine. I am planning on taking the car on a trailer and hosing out the engine bay. Remove all the sound deadening mat'l and replacing it. I want to put on SSI's or similar. What else should I do while the engine is out of the car. The compression tests look good and it runs great now so i don't think I need to get into the engine too much. Any adeas?

Thanks

zac

Leak may also be the crankshaft pulley seal. Other good, easy things to do: replace engine mounted oil thermostat o-ring, breather cover gasket, remove engine mounted oil cooler - clean (especially air side) and install with new seals, adjust valves if the time is near, check and replace as required any vacuum and fuel hoses, check MFI pump pulleys and belt, replace belt if required, check wiring harness for damage and repair as indicated, check engine and transmission mounted throttle linkage bushings, check heater valves, cables and hoses, check tranmsission input shaft seal. Pull fan and alternator and check under shroud for dirt and debris; if bad you may want to consider pulling the MFI and induction system to clean the cylinder and head fins from above. Cheers, Jim

Unless your car has been switched to headers without heat, the 2.2S should have the factory version of SSI's already on it.

buy a gasket kit for your engine, and replace everything you can get at easely... if no carrera tensioners , upgrade to those.. it's easy with the engine out... spray a big can of brake cleaner on the dirty parts , make em all nice and clean... check oil return tube o-rings for leaks...(gasket kit has em in it)...

Zac,

If the leak is the pulley seal or the jackshaft (intermediate shaft) gasket, you don’t need to remove the engine from the car. Those can be repaired by simply removing the muffler, rear sheet metal piece, engine mount assembly, and crank pulley. Parts cost; two muffler gaskets, crank seal, and intermediate shaft cover gasket. Just a few dollars of parts and a short morning of work. You will need to support the engine and borrow P216 seal install tool.

After you have replaced the crank pulley seal and the intermediate shaft gasket, you can reinstall the crank pulley and fan belt. You can now carefully run the engine and inspect for leaks. If the leak persists, carefully inspect for it’s exact location before proceeding.

All that have posted are giving you good advice.

Best,
Grady

Grady,

Maybe the leak is not coming out of the intermediate shaft because the oul leak is coming from the front top of the engine. Its not the oil thermostat because I have checked this, but it is somewhere up top in the front. Maybe you have another idea of where the leak is coming from.

Thanks again

zac

If by front you mean the top of the engine towards the front of the car then it could be several things:
breather cover gasket,
leaking oil supply line to MFI pump,
leaking oil pressure sender,
hose from breather to oil tank has become hard and is not sealing to the breather housing nozzle,
drain from air cleaner housing if the oil system has been over filled,
there is also likely a temperature switch mounted to the breather cover that may be leaking.

Jim

You need to clarify what you mean by "front" of engine..., 911 motors are installed "backwards" so the front of the engine is pointing towards the rear of the car. Grady gave excellent advice based on your leak being in the front of engine, (rear of car), and I assumed the same since you refered to the intermediate shaft seal which is on that end.

If your leak is big and coming from the rear/top of motor, I'd bet dollars to donuts that it's your oil pressure switch, very common *gusher* on 911s. No need to remove engine, just do a partial drop, (remove two large bolts at rear of car and carefully drop w/ floor jack and piece of wood under sump until fuel lines reach end of slack), reach behind MFI stacks on passenger side of car, (U.S. car, right?), ;) , and unplug spade connector then unscrew switch. Replace w/ a new one, (~$20.00), and you are done. (Don't forget to screw motor back to car). :cool:

(This is not the greatest picture, but you can see the little bugger towards the rear (farther end) of my motor on the top. If someone knows how to add an arrow, go ahead).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1080006326.jpg

Turbo valve covers and all boots. Nylon shifter bushing.
Check Waynes book he might have many more ideas.

Hey Denis H do you want to sell that Bonneville? If not now whenever you want to sell it let me know.

Mike, No plans to sell my Bonnie but I might have it in Mpls. this summer. (My home town). If so, I'll send you a message. :cool:

Another source of major oil leaks on the top of the engine is the MFI pump pulley shaft seal. The sucker drips oil right on top of the right side HE and smells up the place pretty good. Lots of smoke too. It's fairly easy to replace the seal and the seal is only about $18.00. You don't have to dissasemble a thing on the pump. The old seal is removed by taking a screw driver and punching in one side of the seal. The oppposite side of the seal bows outward in response to the punched in side. You then take some needle nose pliers and pull out the seal. The new seal is press fit back on (use some sealant on the outer rim of the seal). I know the procedure sounds scary because your thinking that if you F-up, you now have a tear into the pump. Gus at Pacific FI showed me how to do it so it gave me the confidence to give it a go.

I live in St Louis Park on Georgia Av and the past few summers a guy on a Bonneville would blow by me. I was always doing something else and didn't get a chance to find out where he lived.
Great motorcycles!

Look me up!