I need help creating a parts list for an engine lifting set up.
 

I am picking up my motor on Saturday. It will be fully built, ready to install.

I am renting a hoist. It has is one piece of chain hanging off it.

I am using the eye hook by the breather plate and the ends of the engine mount bar.

For those of you who have done this before can you share any details on how you did it?

Chain
Spreader bars to space chain away from CIS, etc
Attachment method to eye hook
Attachment method to two ends of engine mount bar.

I just did this using one of my trailer tie-downs. It's a strap, about 5-6' long, with large flat metal hooks at each end and a d-ring in the center with a locator that keeps the d-ring from sliding. Attached the d-ring to the hoist hook, wrapped one end through the engine mount slot and hooked it back onto itself; hooked the other end to the engine stand yoke. This last part was to prevent the strap from doing harm to components in the immediate area had I used the engine-mounted eye. I placed a piece of cardboard between the other strap and the fan housing, just to avoid chafing. Worked like a champ!

On my 911 you can see a eyelet very near the flywheel on top of the case that would be about center, weight wise, with the transmission attached. You could hook it there, much easier w/o intake attached. Just a thought.

Thanks guys.

markwemple: this is the same hook I am referring to. To me that thing looks awfully thin and connect to a small dia bolt to be hanging my engine and tranny from. But I am definitely using it in comdination with other points.

Hald: Great, creative, idea. My only issue here is that resting the strap against the fan can sometimes break the fan housing. I like the overall concept maybe I just put some sort of spreader in there to keep the strap off the fan.

I attached my hook directly to it and it held fine. I wouldn't use it all day but for the few minutes you will need it worked great for me.

I bought a $30 Engine leveling contraption. It had a jackscrew where you could move the eye to the balance point. The bar spanned from the rear mount to engine fixture. I used chains to attach to the rear mount and engine fixture. I protected the FI and fan with some thick towels but it didn't become a factor. I also bought an engine hoist for $180. I had my 9 year old jack it up to the engine stand. The hoist is foldable and stows away nicely.

So I went a little overkill, but I figured I could use it again.

I also bought one of those engine jack adapters-BUY ONE. It made Engine R/R a Solo operation. Got mine from Wayne.

Thanks. Where are the $30 levelers sold?

Most auto parts stores have them.

Go to www.HarborFreight.com and type "Leveler" into the keyword search.

I think that's what's being described.

Here's a pic of one of them

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1080686149.gif

On the CIS cars (and maybe the MFI cars too) using the lifting eye at the breather is difficult due to interference of the rear leg of the lifting rig to the fuel system/induction parts on the top rear of the engine. I was taught to attach the engine stand head to back of the engine and use it as one of the lifting points. The other two lifting points are the ends of the rear engine mount. Obtain lifting eyes with threaded shanks and slip down through the sleeves on the ends of the engine mount and using washers and nuts secure them. Make a t-shaped "strongback" from members of adequate strength (Dexion, Unistrut, angles and channels, etc.) and suspend a chain leg from an eye bolt in each corner. Put hooks on the lower end of the chain and make the other end adjustable with opening links (like locking carabiners). Mount an eye in the load center of the strongback for attachment of the crane hook. Jim

you could buy a "leveler" -- but why not just move the attachement point for the chain to where you have the engine level? It's so cheap & easy -- what I've always done.

Randy, what home made systems have you used in the past?

I am only looking for a one time use thing. I don't want to ignore the risk of damaging the motor due to improper handling but if there's something that I can rig up and it does the job...once...then I am okay. I don't think I need a leveler either.

Are you intending to use the hoist to get it out of the truck? Does a hoist even go that high?

I have an eyebolt in the ceiling of my garage that I use for lifting motors out of pickups or getting them up on the engine stand.

I use a spreader/leverler thingy to keep the CIS stuff from being crushed. I use climbing webbing instead of chain which solves the chafing issues.
-Chris

US made leveler on Ebay $9.99 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=42611&item=2469936 331

Interesting and only a short drive away!!

I spoke with my mechanic and he said to bring in some heavy duty webbing with end hooks or one of my trailer tie downs and he would show me the light. I regularly use 3" webbing here at work. Armed with a 60" piece with end loops sewn and a couple of end hooks from Home Depot I will be good to go.

I've used a cherry picker - not home made, but the "position on the chain" concept is no different. A big sturdy tripod or overhead beam could be used to pick it up. Or you could slowly wedge stuff under it until you can get a floor jack in there.

You could remove the induction system ,fan and use a chain or strap. Be careful. If it isn't balanced you could injure yourself. If the thing gets out of hand LET IT DROP without any hands or legs or animals underneath it.

I bought the hoist thinking that, if one of my friends tore a muscle or got hurt in any way, what would be the hospital cost and time away from work healing cost us? The $180 was then a no brainer.

I have a 2.2 and have done this a couple ways the first was the hoist . 2nd time i removed the upright from my engine stand and layed 2x8 across the base ( u shaped engine stand type ) which enabled me to roll the engine on the floor with the trans to get it all lined up . i used my floor jack to lift the trans into position and get the two bolts partially threaded at the support . next you can still use the stand to roll the motor into just about the excact position for the cross bar . with the 2x8 at the sump plate ( full width of motor )you can then jack it up into position and get the bolts in the rear partially threaded . if you already have the hoist use it as well cause you can use it for leverage horizontlly to move it back and forth to get it all lined up . then grab those air tools . hope this helps

one more tip i removed my liscense panel it gave me alot of clearance for the little effort involved and that way i did not have to raise the car as far . things were more stable on the jack lower to the ground .