Help, can't remove rear axle nut!
 

I am having a very difficult time removing the rear axle nut. I used a breaker bar 1/2 in drive with a 30 mm 1/2 in axle socket with a pipe extension to 4 ft. after heating up the nut for 5 min. No luck. Should I go to the 3/4 in breaker bar and a 3/4 in 30 mm socket or should I try to cut the nut and use a cold chisel to remove them? Are there replacement axle nuts one can buy? I've been at this for two weeks now.

Thanks,

John

What kind of car is this? I did this on my Carrera with no problem and again last week on my 993 with no problem. I used very slow and steady pressure, same tools you have. Maybe you can mount the wheel back onto the car with the center cap removed and fit the socket onto the nut through that hole and then use the weight of the car. Is it just spinning with the e-brake on or what exactly is the problem? A 4 ft. breaker bar should easily provide enough torque to break it loose. Worst case is you have to take it to a shop with a 1000 ft./lbs. air gun and then put it back on not so tight and take her back home.

Axle
 

Mine is a 72 911. It must be the PO/or shop torque the hell out of it. The spring plates are off at this point. I have the jack supporting the rear trailing arm. It doesn' t move. I put a 3/4" pipe acting as a counter lever; as I tried to remove the nut counterclockwise, it bent the the 3/4 " STEEL pipe. I am trying to replace the rear trailing arm bushing. The axle nuts are the two last nuts to remove. I removed the calipers already. Only the shock absorbers are next.

John

I used a 3/4" drive socket, 3/4" drive breaker bar, a 4-foot 1.5" steel pipe, and I stood on the end of the pipe. Use something (bricks, wood) to support the head of the breaker bar (right next to the nut) so that it doesn't lever off and round the nut. When I researched this job on the BBS, consensus seemed to be that 1/2" drive is inadequate. The torque spec for this nut is something like 400 ft/lb! (Don't quote me on the exact figure) So that's 100 lbs of force applied to the end of a 4-foot bar.

You may wanna try putting a floor jack under the breaker bar and moving it up that way.

Penetrant, heat, penetrant, tap on the bolt to "break" rusted buildup. Keep at it - it will give.

John

I did this last year. 3/4" and a 3 foot breaker bar was the only way I could get that thing to move. It wasn't too difficult with the right tools. Keep in mind that you are going to need a 3/4" torque wrench with about a 400 ft lb capacity to get it back together. These wrenches are expensive (almost $600 new)
Parts stores sometimes loan these tools out. I got a really nice one for under $100 on ebay. Where are you located? If you can't find one, let me know.

I used a 1/2" breaker bar and a cheater pipe and mine broke loose without alot of drama...

Mike

The 85.5 and later cars use a nut that is torqued to 340 lb-ft. The earlier cars use a castle nut that is torqued to 240 lb-ft, I believe. That extra 100 lb-ft is enough to break most 1/2 in. drive extensions. I had to go with 3/4 in. drive because I kept breaking extensions.

The replacement nut is easily available from Pelican. But keep at it with the breaker bar. Maybe go to 3/4 in? Is the 1/2 in. tool flexing? I know mine was when I tried it on my car.

BTDT...had to use a 3/4" breaker bar AND a 4' section of black pipe as a cheater bar. I actually BROKE a 1/2" breaker bar before going with the 3/4" one.

I used a impact wrench for my '73

The movie phrase; "We're going to need bigger guns!" comes to mind.:D This is 3/4" square drive torque range; I used a 10 to 1 planetary torque multiplier (3/4" output) with a very big reaction lever positioned against the floor. Impact is okay for coming off but isn't satisfactory for obtaining the installation torque. Cheers, Jim

All correct. John's calculation that this will take 100 lbs on a 4-ft extension may be understated. It takes much more force to remove a nut than to install it. So, it may easily take 600 lb/ft to get this thing off.

The boys are right again. Use a 3/4" breaker bar and socket, and a LONG extension pipe. Mine is five feet long, and I have had to put some pretty scary force on it at times. when the nut breaks loose, you'll be able to hear it for two blocks at least.

Right tool for the job is an impact wrench. You will eventually need to reinstall to proper torque and of course you can't do that with the impact, but first things first...get it off.

Having wasted a lot of time on a lot of different makes and models doing this same thing, several trips to tool stores, flagging down Snap- On trucks, etc, all I can say is....put wheel back on, drive to nearest shop, have 'em spin it off with impact wrench, hand tighten, drive home. Done.

You CAN get it with a breaker bar, cheater, penetrant, tapping, etc - but that will all take longer and carries some measure of danger with it as you manually apply continuous pressure waiting for that sucker to break free and you to fall or bash your hand on a fender lip.

A couple of bucks to the guy at the nearest Chevron worked for me until I ponied up for the compressor and air tools.

I bought a really cheap 3/4" drive set from Harbor Freight when I did my rear axles. Its not exactly finely crafted tools, but the price was right for something that I wasnt going to use too often. I used my AC Hydraulics floor jack to do the work... :)

Yep/ditto.

Torque spec
 

Right now putting it back is not an option. The torque spec on this year is 240 ft.lb. (?) Maybe it got torque to 340 ft.lb. on the later models

John

P.S. I did break the 1/2 in breaker bar doing this. I guess it will be the 3/4 in breaker bar. Sears has one for about $46. How about cutting off the castelated nut?

Cutting off the nut sounds like potential for trouble. You'll end up replacing the axle shaft if you booger the threads.

If all else fails, find a friend who works heavy construction and knows of someone who operates the service truck? Those guys have to service some heavy equipment and have a bada$$ impact wrench on the truck.

Try this (sorry for bad quality):

http://project911.luminasweden.com/l...2-5220_IMG.JPG

The trip-to-the-local-service-station solution sounds good. Harbor Freight tools is another good option. Poor options would include using a half-inch tool, or a Dremel. Trust me, you put enough force on that nut, and she'll come off. I promise.

You could buy a length of 3/4" steel, heat it and bend a right angle on the end. HF currently has a sale on their Earthquake impact wrench.

Stop messing around.

Get to a truck stop where they change tires on an 18 wheeler. They will have a good time spinning off your nut. They'll have a story to take home to the kids too.

The next best thing is a trip to Harbor Freight or the pawn shop. Get the 3/4" breaker bar and a socket. Lean on it with the proper pipe extension.

Good luck,
David Duffield

If you really want impact, try some C-4.

I am not sure where you live, but I have a 3/4 inch bar, sockets, cheater pipe for the bar and a 3/4 inch drive inspection grade torque wrench.

I live in Fremont CA, let me know if you would like help.

Darryl

That's the only nut on my car that I use an impact wrench on (both removing and installing), but as others have stated, it WILL come off with a long enough breaker bar...leverage is your friend!

Good luck.

On one of mine, I had to cut it off. It wrecked the threads and I had to replace the shaft. BIG hassle. But no choice.

I have a great compressor and a big impact wrench. This nut laughed at that. I heated it cherry red.... and it still laughed at the impact wrench. I tried a 3/4 socket and breaker bar and a 5 foot cheater bar, supported by the floor jack and with my full 240lbs bouncing on it....nada. At that point it freightened me. The dremel and angle grinder had it off in less than 10 minutes.



Terry

I got them off finally. Craftsman 1/2 in breaker bar with a 1 in 5 foot cheater bar after heating up the nut. Used a 3/4 in steel pipe as a counter lever. It's now bent into a S-shaped bar. On one side, the hub with the studs seem to be stuck. How do I get this off without damaging the bearings. There seems to be some play with the bearings, does this mean they are bad and need replacing?

John

Why remove the nut?
 

I disconnected the axle at the transmission, removed the spring plate, brake line, etc. and removed the banana with the axle in situ at the hub. Put in Elephant bushings and put all back together. Worked for me.

LWWJRMD

You must replace the bearings if your pulling the hub out. do you have the proper bearing puller? the old bearing gets destroyed during the removal process. That will be the next challenge.

Eh??

Look at the date of the original post 2004 :D which is about the main bearings, not the bushings.

Enjoy. :)

oooooohhhhhhhuuuuu, now I get it:eek::eek: nevermind, never even looked at the date.....

For the VW bug rear axle nut, there's a tool called a Torque Meister (sometime called torque dude depending on the maker)
This gizmo bolts onto the lug nuts, then multiplies the strength of an ordinary wrench X 9 to power the nut right off... doesn't anyone make one for Porsche?
The VW rear axle nut is 36mm... It's nice because the nut can be reapplied with accuracy if you use a normal torque wrench with it to tighten the nut.
Someone on the forum should make these for Porsche use...

I used a 18" long 3/4" breaker bar and a 5 foot extension pipe. Lifting up from the right side only made the tire slip on the concrete. I supported the socket close to the wheel and then bounced all my body weight down at the end of the extension . I broke the first Craftsmen 30mm socket and had to return it for my free replacement. The store guy was looking at me like he was thinging "How in the world can you break one of those?" I didn't use heat but did use a lot of penetrant. With my body weight and extension length I figured it may have held over 750 foot pounds before it finally gave way.

Guys, this post is over 5 years old, I think he got it fixed. Stop.

Thankyou for this. I spent ages heating the nut and then trying a rattle gun and then trying to undo the nut. I was unsure of how much force I could use.
I gave up and came and searched and found this.

back down I went and got it off - another 10 mins.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1628665251.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1628665251.jpg

one last pic