What do I prep for a total repaint?

My 78SC Targa 89K, which I bought new off the show room floor, is in desperate need of a repaint.... I had it repainted about 7 yr.ago (Its Black on Black), thought I had a good shop. Paid big money, took them almost 2 months, glass out, trim off , Glasurit etc. Well after a year spots started floating to the surface. Bubbles with-in another, and huge blisters there after. I think the guy used the wrong primer or contaminated the sub-coat some how? Shop sold to another owner, recourse a joke. So I've been bit once, don't have the temperament or dinero to do it again. Thought thru the forum and research, I'd be able to prep the car myself, and then take it to a moderately priced painter to get painted.
Here's what I've looked into. Soda blasting the car (quoted $500). and a $1200 MAACO paint job. Or some other independent shops which looks like between $2000-$3000.
Soda blasting- how do you get that fine power from getting everywhere in your car? And how do you get it out. I'm worried what it might do to the new paint. What prep work do I do before I get it blasted? They say it want harm the rubber? What about media blasting?
If I have the windows pulled, do I do this before I blast. MAACO won't touch the windows, so do I get them pulled in my garage, and trailer car to the painter. What do I need to tape-up. And finally, what if I find some... rust! What"s the chronological order. Blast, fix rust ( how much time before I have to prime), paint. Who does the rust repair, the painter, or do I take it to another shop for that.
Sorry for the long post, but I see this as a logistical problem. Any suggestions from the forum is appreciated. And any suggested painters/shops in the DFW area are welcomed.
Thanks
Doug

78' 911 sc
Black/Black 89K

[fintstone]

Are the problem areas (bubbles) only in certain areas or everywhere?

Flintstone,... most of the bubbles aren't bubbles anymore,... there bare primer. Pieces the size of softballs have come up all over the hood & engine hood. And several patches on the front and rear finders. The only so called good paint is on the horizonal panels on the doors and fenders. But I don't trust any of the paint. Don't you think I've got to blast it.
Doug

[fintstone]

Interesting. Did any of the primer come up? Is it a sealer coat over the original finish or did they take it down to metal the first time?

I think they sanded it to the original primer on most of the body, and took it to metal on the hood and engine hood. But it just popped off after a couple of years. There was no rust on the places it bubbled, at least originally. But its a 25 yr old buggy, and I suspect there is rust. If I soda, or media blast it, and find rust,... then what.
As I said in my first post, I'm not sure what the order of the work is, and who handles what. I know I can take it to a concourse shop and they will do it all, ( for 5k on up).

[fintstone]

I am not really an expert, but have done a bit of painting. I have seen that (bubbles) happen if the primer is not sanded or if not completely dry after wet sanding. Most problems I have seen where two finishes are not compatible causes sort of a crinkling and then peeling. Guess it depends on what you are looking for. If a concours is it, then you need to remove the glass, etc. If a daily driver and no color change..I would remove as much as I could and tape the rest. Personally I would prefer to sand the car rather than use paint remover or blast it. I will take a good long time to remove the old paint though. If I were painting it myself, I would probably sand it down to a good solid layer where it does not appear to be peeling and then spray with a good primer/sealer. If I were paying to have it sprayed, I would probably sand the bad areas down to metal and then primer them. Don't want to risk having to reshoot it. Some folks use paint remover, but that is messy and will also remove/damage body filler if you have any.
Other option is to find a paint shop that will tell you exactly what prep they would want you to do for them to stand behind the paint job.

[HawgRyder]

When I decided to strip mine down to bare metal it was because the lower layer of primer had little rust spots all over.
It appears the first layer next to the metal had been left out in the rain or something like that....then the next layer of primer was sprayed over to cover it.
I figure the owner did not know about the 2 layers of primer or if he did, he should be shot!!
If I had not taken it right down to metal...the car would have disintegrated around me.
Bob

[fintstone]

Yes, I have seen that too. Often do-it-yourselfers will sand to metal and the spray can primer it. Then they drive it around for months before taking it in to be sprayed. Of course, primer alone does not protect the metal and the rust has already started. In Doug's case, his car was professionally painted....but, then again, they sure seemed to have screwed up the prep.

[porscheboy16]

Maaco? On a 911?

[Rot 911]

Originally posted by porscheboy16
Maaco? On a 911?

Come back with that reply AFTER you have done a bit of research on this topic. Nothing wrong with a Maaco paint job if you do the right prep work.

[kqw]

My opinion.....save your ducat's. I would wait til I had the cash to get it done right. You want a shop that understands the original quality put into Porsche automobiles, has been in business for many many years and stands by their work. Look locally for a shop that does highly specialized work on exotic auto's. I had a ding/dent and scratch taken out by a shop that specialized in Austin Martin, Rolls Royce and ferrari.

If you plan on keeping the car for years, get it done right...MHO

[Zeke]

Originally posted by Kurt V
Come back with that reply AFTER you have done a bit of research on this topic. Nothing wrong with a Maaco paint job if you do the right prep work.

I wasn't going to reply here as I really don't have much to add. Good info so far.

But, Kurt is right. Some of these high volume shops are the best around. That's all they do all day long is paint cars. And they have state of the art equipment. Where they fall down is prep and quality of paint used. If you can prep a car and supply material and they know how to use it, you can't beat a HV shop. I'm looking into it right now for mine after the body work is done. I'm considering using 1 Day if they'll spray Glasurit. We'll see.

[kqw]

Zeke/Kurt..you're kidding right? Macco? come on...are you serious??? I have been wrong many times but...is it not true that:

Higher quality shops employ folks that have the experience in materials and (in your words) "know how to use it "

I am not trying to be difficult here but, educate me here. IF Macco like shops are that good then shops like Karosserie would be out of business.