72 Oil Tank Removal and Cleanup Questions...

IAN · 02-29-2004, 07:27 AM

Yesterday I removed the oil tank from my 72 911T without too many problems and now I have a few quick questions...

1) Do people usually just have the tank steam cleaned on the outside or do they prefer to have a radiator shop dip it 'caustic soda.' Obviously I would remove the sending unit before putting it in the 'caustic soda'

2) Is there a good way to scrape off all of the oil muck that so nicely attaches itself to that fender area? I have been using just a degreaser and a plastic scraper as well as nylon scrub brush and brake fluid. What a mess....

3) Once I clean that entire area out I was going to use some of the left over paint that was used on my vehicle and brush it on the inside of the fender area and then top coat it with clear POR15.

4) The Hard Oil Line is being rebuilt by a local hydraulic shop for about $50. They are using 300 degree hose. Do folks like some kind of moly lube when screwing the hard oil line connections back together? How tight do these need to be to not leak?

5) The tank will be inspected once cleaned and repaired as necessary.

6) The sending unit gasget will be replaced.

Can anyone think of anything I'm missing while I'm covered in this muck??

Thanks!

Ian

Mike Kast · Mike Kast's Garage

sounds like your going in the right direction. Why the por15 over the paint? I thought it was best used over bare metal. Have you used it that way before?
As far as a radiator shop cleaning the tank- I think thats a good idea. I cleaned it myself and dealt with all the mess your having and when I was done I still feared the interior could have been cleaner.
I por15'd the bare tank and primed and painted as directed with regular primer and spray paint. the paint is holding up great so I don't know for sure, but I'm thinking if the paint got much over 200 degrees it would start to fail. I'm thinking 300 degree hose should be good overkill.

Mike Kast · Mike Kast's Garage

oh yea... you were able to remove the oil lines without cutting them huh? I had no such luck. I'd like to hear the answer to the moly lube question too. And torque. But if you grease them you get false torque readings right?

john walker's workshop · 02-29-2004, 08:52 AM

is there really a published torque spec for an oil tank hose? the ball and socket is what seals the joint, so just get the nut good and tight. lube or anti-seize on the threads won't hurt anything, and sure will help if it ever has to be removed again later.

techguy · 03-31-2004, 10:53 AM

Any tricks to remove the tank on the 72 models? I see what looks like a really big hose clamp around it and lots of crud. What comes off 1st, I hate to damage it...trying to install some rear mounted seat belt retractors in that area if I can find space below it.

Tyson Schmidt · 03-31-2004, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by techguy
Any tricks to remove the tank on the 72 models? I see what looks like a really big hose clamp around it and lots of crud. What comes off 1st, I hate to damage it...trying to install some rear mounted seat belt retractors in that area if I can find space below it.

Basically just that strap holds it tight against the inner fenderwell, which has matching recesses and protrusions that keep the tank from moving around when strapped in. Just loosen the strap completely, then pull the tank away from the inner fenderwell, and pull straight out the bottom while guiding the filler neck out of the hole.

techguy · 03-31-2004, 11:05 AM

Could I leave the tank connected and move it just enough to get a bolt in for a seat belt retractor on the cabin side?

Tyson Schmidt · 03-31-2004, 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by techguy
Could I leave the tank connected and move it just enough to get a bolt in for a seat belt retractor on the cabin side?

Yes, you should be able to leave the hoses connected, but it will make it much more difficult.

techguy · 03-31-2004, 11:16 AM

Any changce in hell of getting a bolt thru the factory plug in the sheet metal to the cabin and the tank or no room?

Tyson Schmidt · 03-31-2004, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by techguy
Any changce in hell of getting a bolt thru the factory plug in the sheet metal to the cabin and the tank or no room?

I'm not sure I follow what you are trying to do.

Evans, Marv · 03-31-2004, 01:36 PM

Techguy:
If you had no problems with metal shavings in the oil tank, I would just clean it myself with solvent or have a radiator shop do it. If I were you, I'd get up in the fenderwell with a powerwasher & really clean it. You may still have to use a scraper &/or wire brush in between power washes. After that, I'd get up in the fender well again, dry it, brush it, scrape any paint/rust/scale off & treat it with a good rust neutralizer. After that, I'd paint that surface with black POR-15, let it cure & reinstall the tank. I'd do the same thing to the outside of the tank. AND WHILE YOU'RE IN THERE, clean up any rust & flaked off underbpdy coatiing you see & POR-15 the hell out of it.

zotman72 · 03-31-2004, 01:40 PM

Hold onto those four plastic saucers that go over the circular tank indentations. They keep the tank from abrading at the contact points with the car body. I would be very amazed if they could be located to be replaced, and I suspect they are '72 specific items, don't you know... HTH
Oh, you are on track with your R&R with your tank. The gas tank gasket is the same as the oil level sender gasket and apparently cheaper to buy so I have been told...

Randy Webb · 03-31-2004, 04:26 PM

I would take it to a car wash with the wand type high pressure hoses and de crud it all before taking anything apart.

Do a search on oil tank for various posts. I had mine coated with a heat dispersant coating said to be more durable than paint. I doubt that POR-15 or powder coating will make a big decrement in heat transfer, esp. on a '72.