The fuse for the windshield wiper!!!!!.. that's a good one.
I'll be sure to do that if I ever get my car off the blocks.

--although, it's never personally happened.. *ahem.:p :p

Don't know if anyone else does this, but I've been running my oil on the low side since a little incident on my first track training day (bottom of the dip stick when warm, reads as empty on the dash gauge).

I got into a slight spin (3 complete revolutions) and sloshed oil though the breather hose into the air intake (at the time my oil level was toward the top of the range on the dip stick). The engine breathed oil and fouled the plugs, lots of misfiring and hesitating. A new set of plugs fixed the problem.

Also, my mechanic advises bleeding the brakes before any event and I do as I'm told 'cos he knows a lot more about this stuff than me… consequently he sells me a lot of race brake fluid ;)

My car is a '72, with the oil tank in front of the right rear wheel. It doesn't look like this could happen on this set-up; I don't know, could it? Anyway, I took the car down to the local park and ride last night to practice some braking and skid pad type driving. I found out my left front tire (you know; the side with the fat guy in it...) rubs the fender lip in hard right cornering. I'm running Yokohama 205/60ZR15's all the way around. The fronts have about one degree negative camber. As it's probably too late to lose enough weight to make any difference before Saturday, I've gone through quite a few posts on tire clearance issues with this size tire on the older cars. I'm going to try rolling the fender lip up a bit more, but I'm worried about cracking the paint. I could also trim about half of the inner lip's width with my trusty Dremel. At any rate, I'm sure glad I tried this before next Saturday. It was also fun entertaining the few folks waiting for their bus; I even got applause a couple of times.

Really!?!

Do you mean just on the track or in day to day street driving too?
I always downshift, coming to lights and up to corners. I have never heard this before.

I'm getting ready for my first DT / DE too in about 2 weeks. One thing to check (sorry if mentioned already) is your rear sway bar mounts. The factory bracket is welded to the frame and has a tendency to flex and rip away from the frame. I'm not sure how the '72 setup is; I have an '84 Carrera and I know its been a problem before on the 911 as the sway bar sizes got larger and stiffer over time. If a mount snaps in a hard corner is can throw you into a spin I hear...

Brake pads and rotors are cheaper than clutches and transmissions. Blip the throttle to match engine revs if you need to hang a lower gear to pick up speed. Using the transmission as a brake is usually frowned upon except in certain circumstances...

The obvious is make sure all the braking components are in order. Fresh fluid is a must.

Bring lots of fluids (for yourself)

If you don't already, learn how to match the revs on downshifts, ie. "heel and toe."

Be mindful and very deliberate in your shifts.

Bring a skateboard/razor scooter... in between your sessions, if you are not working on the car, resting, or eating, you'll most likely be checking out other cars or watching the action on the track. The distances in the pit (between good spectator corners, bathroom etc.) are rather large and it helps you get around a lot quicker/more efficiently.

Definitely not on the track, but in street driving I occasionally use engine braking to slow down. I still match the revs to do that instead of just releasing the clutch and making the car "lunge" to slow down.

Steve:

You are actually trying NOT to use the engine as a substitute for your brakes.

Nothing wrong with down-shifting when coming to a light as long as you are blipping and matching revs to be at least reasonably close to where the lower gear / matching engine rpm need to be for the speed you are carrying. (also makes good practice for heel-toe).

Brake pads are much cheaper to replace then clutch disks. Releasing the clutch without matching revs is essentially using the clutch to raise the engine rpm to match the spinning drive-train (attached to the wheels). Not so good.

Jason

I always downshift when i drive on the street, but i always blip the throttle too to match revs. Am i still in danger? can anyone explain the mechanical reasons that downshifting hurts the transmission?

After spending almost 2 grand on new rotors and calipers, i shudder to think what a clutch/transmission repair would cost. :rolleyes:

-Ian

EDIT: oops, I guess Jason answered my question while i was typing...

Same here (after matching revs for d-shift). :D

Jason

you guys make such a big deal over braking a car... a clutch is meant to wear out anyhow, just like brake pads are meant to wear out...
needless to say , it will wear out faster on a track, just like brake pads and tires and just about anything on your car will wear out faster if you track your car... oh yeah, your fuel will wear out a lot faster too...
:rolleyes:

brake however you wanna brake, and leave the frowning over to your mothers in law... if she comes near the track, run her over, just be carefull not to wear out your bumpers...

That's an easy fix for me. My '72 "T" model doesn't have any sway bars. I have been checking this board, and a wealth of other sources, to come up with some kind of incremental upgrade list. Sway bars and the front camber brace are currently in the top slots. I already have the aluminum "S" calipers on the front and the larger tires (205/60 ZR15's); they came with the car. I thought I would first learn the car a bit more so that I could really tell if these changes are making an improvement. That, and have some more experienced drivers drive it, and use their feedback before spending any money. I'm sure I'll go home with a more accurate list after Saturday.

I would say don't buy a helmet. Do notice the loaner helmet you borrow. It will probably be pretty gross. The important thing is to observe the fit, notice and remember the size and brand. If you like the helmet, buy one like it. If you don't, notice what other people are using. Helmets are expensive, and you'll want to get a good one - but why not be sure you're getting one you'll like wearing?

I agree with the "Brakes are cheaper then clutches" but I have had the same tranny in my car from 1972. Close to 200,000 hard miles-ie driving events, street driving and mass amounts of mountain driving. The tranny still works great. No grinding, no nothin. So I guess what I'm saying is that the 915 is a lot stronger then people think.

The point I was originally trying to make was that throttle blipping and double clutching to match the engine and transmission speed before engaging a lower gear is far less stressfull on any engine than full out engine braking; just dropping the car into a lower gear and essentially "lurching" the engine rpm's way up and slowing down the car. Not only is there so much less wear on the mechanicals when double clutching, you also decrease your chances of losing traction by way of upsetting the balance of the car or pitching it forward. Obviously that's a pretty extreme circumstance but the techniques you practice on the street will to a large degree be magnified when you transfer your skill over to the track. Why not learn to refine your style?

Gee, I hadn't noticed...

the point is, sure it works for you, but why confuse a first timer
hanging out @ the track will eventually get you to the point where you look to improve yourself...

but give the newbies some time to figure it out
and don't go raving about double clutching and blipping when the first thing to worry about is learning how to get his car in shape and on the track... especially since all these techniques are not for everybody, some people can get around a track just as fluently without... it's like the old Dyno vs Synthetic oil... lot's of opinions and each has his own...

I've spent a lot of time in my new 911T playing with the two different downshifting techniques everyone is suggesting. I don't use the engine for braking; I learned that years ago on motorcycles. A rough downshift in a corner on a bike gets pretty interesting... Anyway, I've been using double clutching and "single"? (is that a term?) clutching and trying to determine which is best for me. I expect to be somewhat nervous and overwhelmed on this upcoming first day, so I'm trying to get to the point that I can do either on demand. Not there yet, but working on it. All of you help and tips are appreciated, even if I will be too overwhelmed to remember and try them on my first day. Maybe after that fatefull first day, I'll start a thread for some of your more advanced tips. "Second Day Drivers' Skills" or something like that. Seriously, though, the set-up and what to bring, for me and the car, have been most helpfull. The driving pointers are great, too, but I'm hoping the instructors advice, given first hand, will stick and make it clear to me what all of you are talking about.

Jeff
Driver Skills days are not the same as Driver's Ed days. Skills day is running through 4 or 5 stations...slalom, skid pad, braking, late apex turn, mini auto cross in an abandoned airfield. You could take your station wagon and do the skills day. In fact, you will probably see several station wagons there :)

DE days involve driving on the track with other cars at track speeds, that is where you have to bleed the brakes and all the other good stuff. Skills day you could show up with a car that has a clean bill of health and should be fine.

OK Here it is:
Down shifting (NOT to be confused with engine braking, this is what semi trucks do) IS ok to aid in braking, but the biggest thing is down shifting to match revs to gear to accel need: If you are going into a corner that requires a second gear exit, you are going to shift to second before you get to the turn.

The theory behind downshifting being bad applies to the hordes of people who can't properly drive a manual. Clutches are supposed to slip upon engagement/disengagement. Have you ever seen a solid lock clutch? Unless your flywheel is the size of a UFO you would look like my wife the last time she tried to drive one of my manual trucks with a trailer (stalling).

I have actually heard a good argument for downshifting- application of 'negative' forces on trans engine components. I'm not a metalurgist, but I think it makes a little sense.
"Using the transmission as a brake is usually frowned upon except in certain circumstances..." Umm, have you ever been trackside at a race, or stood a stop light as large trucks are slowing?

-Jeremy

As cool as you might feel after your "on track" experience....

TAKE THE DAMN NUMBERS OFF BEFORE YOU DRIVE HOME.