An unorthodox engine yoke...

[TedSlick]

This is an update to another thread. Thanks to Chris Bennett for the dimensions

Fixture with anchor bolts thru a short section of black steel pipe used as spacers. The extension bolts are not yet threaded into the half-ring in this pic:


Fixture attached to generic engine stand. The generic extensions have been strengthened with welded steel gussets. Learned how to weld recently and wanted to ensure adequate strength:


Lifting the engine onto the fixture/stand with the hydraulic cart. A one (thin) man operation:


The extension bolts are necessary to ensure the engine will spin completely upside down, with enough clearance to avoid the exhaust hitting the vertical support of the engine stand. This is not possible using the unaltered engine stand:


This is about half the cost of the P201. Why bother? I'm a hobbyist, I guess. Fun little project.

[konish]

Ted,
Damn...nice work. At half tyhe cost of the P201 maybe you'd make up a few more for sale? :-)

R/
Dustin

[TedSlick]

Sure would...if I could just get the buyer to sign a release-of-liability waiver in case the thing fails and someone's engine ends up smack on their garage floor...LOL


So far so good. Been putting it to use the last few evenings...seems to work pretty well.

[Shuie]

Very nice Ted! Is that adapter the one the guy on the bay is selling? I bought a slightly used P201 instead, but it took me forever to find it.

[Doug Zielke]

Check current issue of Excellence. There is an ad (Mainely Products?) for the same tool. About half price of the P201.

[TedSlick]

The half-ring part is the one sold by Mainely. It's the grey part in the pics above.

A few problems, though. For the price, Mainely only provides the grey part, not the rest of what you need. No bolts and no adapter to attach to the jack stand spindle.

So, if you simply use your own bolts and go with a generic engine stand, you will not be able to attach your engine to the stand unless you remove the clutch first because there's not enough clearance. The generic stand extensions are not long enough.

If you do remove the clutch and get the engine attached, you will not be able to spin your engine completely upside down because your exhaust will hit the vertical bar of the stand. Now, if you remove both the clutch and the exhaust (good luck), then the Mainely product is effective out of the box.

Otherwise, you will need to add your own extensions to get full functionality similar to the P201. This is what I was showing above.

[jstgermaine]

Ted,

At half the price of the P201, I'll take four when you get them made!!! Serious.

[echrisconnor]

How much depth do you have between the engine and your stand? Is that about 4"? And, how much clearanc do you need with the clutch in place?

[TedSlick]

Originally posted by echrisconnor
How much depth do you have between the engine and your stand? Is that about 4"? And, how much clearanc do you need with the clutch in place?

This will vary depending on the stand you use, but in this case:

You need a full 6" from the mounting lip of the engine case to the face of the engine stand's spindle plate in order to be able to rotate your engine a full 360 degrees. At this distance, both heat exchangers will clear the vertical support of the stand in the picture. This means adding at least 2-3/4" of extension to the 'L' shaped brackets that come with the generic stand. This much extension should also allow you to remove/install the clutch while engine is on the stand.

If you do not add extensions, you may be able to barely fit the engine (with clutch and release bearing still on) onto an unaltered stand, but it will be tight, and you may have to fudge things around around to get it to fit, because the release bearing will be very close (or up against) the spindle plate and the bolt heads. Your heat exchangers will probably conflict, however, with the engine stand vertical support.

[Rondinone]

Wayne will beat you with a rubber hose if he sees this.

[TedSlick]

Yoke + stand For Sale:
FS: Engine yoke and stand ~ $195