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Quick fix for exhaust manifold leak

I am trying to get my 77 911 2.7 inspected when they found an exhaust manifold leak. Looks to be a crack near the bolt-on to the elbow. Is there a quick fix so I can get the inspection done and that will give me time to order and replace with SSI's and muffler? I was planning on doing that anyway but these things never really come at a good time.

Thanks,
Dean
Old 04-25-2004, 07:11 AM
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THe only temp repair the smog nazi accepts is to weld it.
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Old 04-25-2004, 07:27 AM
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Would JB Weld work? Has anyone tried JBWeld?
Old 04-25-2004, 01:28 PM
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I don't think JB Weld can handle THAT much heat. It is a type of epoxy.
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Old 04-25-2004, 02:23 PM
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I used JB Weld when I had an inch long crack on my exhaust manifold in my Ranger. It held for a couple weeks, long enough to find a replacement manifold. The stuff is strong and easy to apply.
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Old 04-25-2004, 02:36 PM
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NOOOOO

oh man jbweld stinks when hot. like the bad aftermath of that bad fish dinner you had that one time... remember? eh?

try and find a tube of 'muffler cement'. my tube is yellow and has a friendly looking workman in black and white on it, who just stands there, reassuringly, as if to say ' ha ha! i'll fix that leak of yours! it's my job! ha ha!' also, the words 'muffler cement' are in HUGE RED BLOCK LETTERS. can't miss 'em. this stuff's supposed to have metal or metal like substances or polymers or corned beef hash in it, which makes it heat, shark, in-law and Fred repellant. my tube may or may not have been manufactured before the sinking of the Maine, let alone the fall of Saigon. it was handed down to me by my uncle, who received it from his father-in-law (apparently he didn't apply the stuff or it would have repelled him, too).
oh, and by 'handed down to', i mean 'hurled at high speed at', but you can see how much less dramatic that might be. i put it in the box with the rest of the stuff he didn't want any more.

so, fast foreward like six months. after coming up close and personal with mr. bad fish dinner as described above, I set my friendly workman and his wonder cement to task, filling in a couple pinholes that bothered me in my (poorly, yet professionally paid for) suoerbird exhaust pipe connections. then i got to use a torch. ALWAYS trust a product which actively endorses setting things on fire. anyhow, my gray ooze crackled a bit, and then went to a light gray. not a bad shade, actually. it would go well with a dark maroon, pehaps.
guess what? it's been working for more than a year. I bought my workman frend a 12 pack for his efforts, but he just looked at me in that reassuring manner that he always has, as if to say 'ha ha! just drink it all yourself! ha ha!' so, now i just take the tube to bars with me. i mean, it's not like he tells me to stop drinking or anything. that makes him just that much cooler than my mom.

recap:

works
adovcates fire
advocates drinking, but not drugs. drugs are bad.
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Old 04-25-2004, 02:39 PM
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Dean,

Since they found (and documented) the leak, they will inspect the repair.

Do you have the original thermal-reactors? Where exactly is the leak? I donít understand your description.

Yelcab1 is probably right, unless you show a welding repair, they will probably accept it.

Please report back and perhaps it can be temporarily solved without much time or money.

Yes, you want SSI or í74 factory heat exchangers.

Best,
Grady
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Old 04-25-2004, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Grady Clay
Dean,

Since they found (and documented) the leak, they will inspect the repair.

Do you have the original thermal-reactors? Where exactly is the leak? I donít understand your description.

Yelcab1 is probably right, unless you show a welding repair, they will probably accept it.

Please report back and perhaps it can be temporarily solved without much time or money.

Yes, you want SSI or í74 factory heat exchangers.

Best,
Grady
Grady, The crack is not really seen but can feel. I think it runs from near the head on the drivers side exhaust manifold to the elbow going to the original heat exchangers. I hope the attached picture shows it, but the pipe off of cylinder #2 ( I think) has the small crack.

I think I'll try to find a welder, then opt for the stinky fish for a quick fix. I just need to get past the nazis until I can round up a good SSI/muffler combo. But this fix will get me up to the task of removing the rusty nuts.
[img] http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads2/exh_man_sm1082937110.jpg[/img]
Old 04-25-2004, 03:55 PM
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Dean,

Those headers are aftermarket replacements for the original thermal-reactors. Good, get someone to weld the crack ďin situ.Ē All you want to do is pass emissions. Clearly the inspectors donít know what they are looking at.

You will have a challenge getting this junk off the engine. Broken exhaust studs will be the major problem but it can all be worked out to perfection.

The OE í74 911 heat exchangers or SSI is what you want.

What is the condition of the engine? I would do a PPI-like inspection prior to lighting into this. Do a cylinder leak test, torque the heads, check valve clearance, etc. You want to know what you are getting into.

Best,
Grady
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Old 04-25-2004, 04:34 PM
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Dean,

I am in Gastonia, outside of Charlotte. Where are you? I too have a 1977 911S with a 2.7. I just got mine inspected less than a month ago and was told that I am emissions exempt. I ended up paying $10.00 for the safety inspection and that was it. I would have thought that yours was exempt. With that, exhaust leaks should be irrelevant. Check with another shop around there. I would be happy to tell you where to do it here if you were in the area.
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Old 04-26-2004, 12:31 PM
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that muffler cement stuff not only exists but works well...

tough crowd, this thread.
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Old 04-26-2004, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by sfmlaw17
Dean,

I am in Gastonia, outside of Charlotte. Where are you? I too have a 1977 911S with a 2.7. I just got mine inspected less than a month ago and was told that I am emissions exempt. I ended up paying $10.00 for the safety inspection and that was it. I would have thought that yours was exempt. With that, exhaust leaks should be irrelevant. Check with another shop around there. I would be happy to tell you where to do it here if you were in the area.
Sean,

I'm in Raleigh. I had a '67 Chevy that only required a honk and lights checked. These guys were really like Nazi's. Young kids too. That's what kind of made me mad. I figured they'd let it slide. They wrote down that a blinker wasn't working. I turned it on then went and bumped the light lens a little and it started blinking. He just walked away. No humor these guys. I might just try another station and see, but I really need to replace it anyways. The wife gave me a green light to 'go ahead and get it done'.

Being I'm not a welding expert, would there be any damage to the electrical if manifold is welded while intact?
Old 04-26-2004, 02:25 PM
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JB Weld worked better than Exhaust Sealer

I found the exhaust sealer (or at least they type I used) became very brittle with exhaust heat and would brake off quickly. JB Weld on the other hand has stuck too it (sealing my Cat converter pipe) and seems to flex with the exhaust.

Temporary until I get around to a backdated exhaust, but does a good job for the interim.

Gordo
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Old 04-26-2004, 08:03 PM
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