clutch cable adjustment on a SC?

[vash]

any pitfalls that i have to look out for? i have the simple non omega spring clutch cable on my car and that was damn easy, but i am helping with the SC this weekend. so i am doing some homework. what about removing the tension from the cable to remove the clevis pin from the pedal cluster. on my car i used a c-clamp to relieve tension, can i do the same with the newer setup? tips, tricks would really be helpful and appreciated. thanks guys.

cliff

[Westy]

Hey Cliff,,Good to hear you work on SC's now. I'll call ya when it's time! LOL

[vash]

anytime, preferably in the fall or spring time. it gets hot over there!

[code7rpd]

The explaination in the 101 projects book is pretty good. You need to loosen the adjustment bolts on the cable until it is slack, adjust the adjustment bolt on the small arm until the gap between the bolt and the arm is 1.2mm, then tighten the cable nuts to decrease the gap to 1.0mm. When you are done, have a helper depress the clutch and measure the distance the cable stretches from the cable nut to the end of the cable. Then measure it with the no pressure on the clutch pedal. The difference in these measurements should be 25mm plus or minus .5 mm. There is a rubber stop opn the floorboard under the clutch pedal that can be adjusted a little to fine tune the adjustment. It is hard to explain without pictures but the 101 project bok helps alot.

[vash]

i read that, i was mostly curious about how to put some slack into the system to remove and install that damn clevis pin. and looking for pitfalls and such.

thanks code7!

cliff

[DavidI]

Cliff, I used a piece of rope tied from the clutch pedal to the steering wheel to hold it while I attached the clevis pin. If your hands are big, you may want to find someone with small hands to do it for you. It makes the job much easier.

Good luck, David

[juanbenae]

break the pin on the peddal cluster if its a cable change too. its a ***** to get to and off, the keeper comes off easy enough, but driving the pin out is hell. with the part cost $5 its money well spent, break the pin, not your spirit on that repair.

[Gordo2]

Followed 101 for the project. You can get slack in the line by loosening the tensioner nut near the transmission. I removed the connection at the transmisission to replace my broken clevis pin. Followed up with adjustment.

Oddities included:

-Lack of finger space at the cable to pedal assembly (needle nose plyers and magnet on a stick came in handy).

-Setting up the max clutch depression with the flimsy stopper bolted to my worn out floor boards. Kind of a best guess deal. Almost stopped mid-project to order some aluminum floorboards, but didn't feel like waiting on shipping.

-Adjusting clearance at the actuator (the arm that the helper spring connects to on the transmission). Looked to me like my adjuster bolt wore into the contact part on the arm, making it impossible to set the gap to spec (flat surface on the outside to gap, but a indention where the bolt makes contact). I went with a close guess and it works fine.

Gordo