Ok, the O2 has been disconnected and the pulsing CO% are stable at 1%. That prob found... now new prob. Cold idle is very,very low, like 350-400, and thats not stone cold. It slowly raises to 900 by the time the temp guage is at the 9 o'clock position. So I thought it must be the AAR not "opening" while cold. When I took it off the car while hot (ouch) it was 100% closed. I stuck it in the freezer and it opened 90%. So my thinking is it is working, but looking at different threads, different people are getting different results with the opening and closing of the valve. Does anyone know the TRUE opening and closing %'s? Also, when hot, I metered the ohms on the AAR and it was at 0.000. When I stuck it in the freezer it measured ~27. Should it read anything while hot? Is it defective? Also, how are people getting the AAR open? Mine looks like it's riveted. I also don't have an external "adjustment nut" like i've seen in some pics. It's it even worth opening up?

My AAR was closed when I removed it from a hot engine and opened to about 90% when it cooled down. To clean it I just sprayed it with carb cleaner and put a little multi-purpose oil on the valve disk. I didn't even try to disassemble it. I removed the decel valve and AAV and haven't had any problems with the way the motor runs. The RPM's drop faster without the Decel valve but that's all I have noticed.
Have you check the WUR (Warm Up Regulator)? It sounds to me like your AAR is working. Could be that the AAV or Decel valve are stuck open and your running too lean when cold.

Your AAR should show resistance both hot or cold. You may have a burned out heating element which shows intermitant continuity. That won't really change your cold start situation though.

You can drill out the rivets and adjust the thermostatic spring inside the AAR if you're really interested, however the throw you're describing sounds normal. Again, look at that resource I posted before. Under the AAR section it shows what some look like when cold/room temperature.

I'd really suggest getting the fuel pressure gauge that has been recommended earlier in this thread. Yes, they're $60 through JC Whitney but that will avoid a bunch of the guessing that we're all participating in. Solid fuel pressure numbers will get a lot more people ready and willing to take a stab at a problem source.

c