Put new tail on....now can't get it to release and open
 

Put the new rear tail on centered the spring and latch, closed it....now can't get it to release and open.....any suggestions?

have someone push down on the lid, and then you pull the release..hold release open and have the helper (Ingo) lift the lid...adjust the screw on the lid/extend it.

get a friend to pull the latch handle and you stand at the back pushing down, up, jiggling, cussing. it will open. once you get it to open, go to the local hardware store and get a stiffer spring for the latch thing. i couldnt find one, so i got a smaller one and put it within the factory one for a boost.

Make sure that the release handle is properly screwed on. I had a problem one time that the lid would not open. It turned out that one of my boys had been standing there unscrewing the release handle. It took about half an hour to work out what was wrong.

Cheers

Mark.......

The above mentioned trick with someone else pulling the release while you jiggle the lid ought to do it. Like Souk said, it's your alignment of the decklid and spring that is the culprit. When this happened to me, I also used a degreaser down the shaft to get rid of all the excess grime and grease that tends to build up in there.

Or, if all the wiggling in world doesn't work, remove the valence and bumper and use a hole saw, say 1 1/2 in, to cut a hole thru the panel under the latch, then use a screwdriver on the pin while someone pulls the release.

Mike...

I'm assuming your talking about the 3.8!!! I'm glad you got it in good order!!!

The same thing happened to me when I was putting it on. I only centered it side to side, not front to back. The way I wound up getting it undone (this was before the screen was in) was create a tool to take the bolts out of the latch. The only other option is to remove your muffler and go in from the bottom. The latch is too long and the little hat wedges under the lip. You don't need to cut any holes as the plate that accesses that area slips right on, once you remove the screws that hold up the heat plate under the bumper.

I still think I got lucky when I finally got it to come apart. I REALLY made sure my Duck was aligned before I closed it.

Hopefully you'll get it!!!! Good Luck!!!:D

My latch mechanism got looser over time, until one day it just wouldn't pop. I found that propping a screwdriver into the handle while pulling, pushing, jiggling, and of course cussing at it finally got it loose. Not so much pulling, but pushing down and to either side, was what finally got it to pop. Good luck.

Dan

Yuuuppers, looks good. Gonna need an exra had to do the adjust...thanks for the suggestions.

Sweet,

Shoot some pics... It's cool to know I'll get to see it from time to time!!!

G-

you've got a Sawzall...put it to use ;)

Next time, adjust the lid *without* the grille on. It will allow you to fiddle with the lockpin when (not if) the lid is stuck closed.
Don't ask...

Good advice on getting it open. Did you put the turbo-style dual lid shocks in? They tend to help lift the extra weight away from the latch once the release is pulled.

Oh -- something else that works is to turn the whole car upside-down and shake it real good. Sucker'll just pop right open, guaranteed.

Hehe. Back the car into a wall and let the ins co worry about it?

In a recent thread, I and others suggested putting visegrips on the cable to hold it open and moving the lid every which way, or driving the car slowly over a driveway approach at different angles to tweak the chassis. I suppose you could do the same thing with a jack. Any luck? You get it open yet?

If you have added weight to the lid, you might have to double the shock for it to pop open. If you have already doubled the lid shocks, it may be time for some new ones. Do they hold your new tail up?

or remove the tail to reestablish that classic unmolested look.....

The rear latch spring is actually a different part number for cars with tails for just this reason. It has a stiffer spring to pop the lid with the extra weight.

Todd

Todd beat me to it...i also think there is a Turbo-part number for the spring.

Hint...don't do a kludge job by adding two shocks on one ( left) side. Do it right and get a turbo right side hinge. You may be surprised to find the mating attachment point for the shock is on the firewall already there on the right side, behind the sound pad. Feel for it. Some cars have this. Two shocks on one side usually spring the lid a bit and looks like a bad fit after a while.

---Wil Ferch

Weird, could have sworn I made a post about the latch spring vs the struts. My tail pops open even without the gas tubes mounted, they are angled wrong to help when it's closed.

I've been thinking for a couple of days now; why not whack it with the Masi, it's heavy enough! ;)

(sorry, just couldn't resist... jealous, I guess)