Twin plug dist TDC

[Paul Thomas]

This is the converted twin plug distributor and cap that we are using in my current project. There is no TDC mark that i can see and when it was pulled from the last motor, no one bothered to make one.

Anyone want to hazard a guess as to where to turn the rotor for installation? The cap can only go on one way and i have marked a pin that was put in to insure this. I havent messed with one of these in a while, what am i missing?

Paul

[BURN-BROS]

You can decide which one will be # 1. The short pole in line with one of the screw tabs on the cap are what I use as the leader. That way when you install the dizzy on the engine you have a reference point (a point to line the rotor blade).Then every 210 deg is the second plug for that cylinder. Hope I cleared it up.


Aaron

[Paul Thomas]

Aaron,
Thanks, thats a very good idea. I guess i have had crankfire for too long.

Paul

[BURN-BROS]

How much was that conversion if you don't mind me asking?

[Grady Clay]

Paul,

In your image looking down on the top of the cap there are little pads cast into the cap. Usually these have the plug numbers. Do I see “1” at about 2-0’clock, inner circle?

Start with the engine at TDC compression #1.
When you find #1 on the inner circle, install the distributor so the inner rotor contact lines up – more or less – with that cap contact.

Install the inner wires following the firing order (1-6-2-4-3-5) in the direction of distributor rotation.

Locate #1 for the outer circle and repeat as above.

Do “static timing” on both circuits.

Make sure the distributor has full range of motion to advance and retard and is not against its limit one way or the other.

Do dynamic timing on both circuits with a good powered timing light. Some timing lights have an advance adjustment. Make sure it is set to zero.

If there is any problem, confirm the firing order for both circuits. Some not-uncommon problems are; firing order going the wrong way, incorrect firing order, swapping a wire from inner to outer circle, and timing 180 off.

As a final check, confirm the rotor lines up properly with the cap terminals. The rotor contact should advance toward the cap terminal, not away.

Remember, a twin plug set-up doesn’t require as much advance. You need to mark your pulley with a new painted max mark, typically 20-26 degrees. What is your engine?

Best,
Grady

[Paul Thomas]

Aaron, I dont know how much the conversion was. This is a friends car that i am putting back together.

Grady, Thanks for the indepth instructions. I originally had a Bosch twinplug unit in my 3.5 but sold it 3-4 years ago because cap and rotor prices are outragious. I am very familiar with the set-up procedure for the unit, i was just having a major brain-fart since the dist. is out of the car and there is no #1 mark on the housing like mine had.

The motor is a MFI 2.9, (obviously) twin-plug with 906 cams. Looks like the dist. is gonna bump the cam feed line for the pressure fed tensioners. One more hurdle.

Paul

[Grady Clay]

Paul,

Can you correct and expand my instructions with your more recent knowledge and experience? I’m doing this from memory (15 years!) I think there are many Pelicans who would do a twin plug conversion if it didn’t appear so daunting. You and I know it is relatively easy.

Best,
Grady

[Paul Thomas]

Grady,
Your memory must be like a steel trap! After i figure out how to get the oil line out of the way, what you said is exactly what i am going to do. In my limited experience the biggest thing is making sure that the starting point is right for both circuits. After that, as long as you are going in the right direction, and have the firing order right, everything should be good.

Thanks for your input,
Paul

[TurboRuf]

Paul,

If you don't want to bend the oil line, Andial sells one specifically for the twin-plug conversion you have.

[Paul Thomas]

Too late. Thanks anyway though.

Paul