Clever way to remove a stuck nut/bolt?
 

Any of you experienced mechanics out there know what's the best way to remove a stuck bolt? The kind that usually has a stripped hex as well. Without the use of an impact wrench? The kind of bolt that may be rusted/almost welded on, that holds a rotor to the hub? Any tricks of the trade? Other than a torch, I'm not sure what else gets the job done. If you drill it out, how do you get the rest of the bolt (the part with the thread) out, and how do you avoid damaging the "female" threads? I've already soaked it in Liquid Wrench, WD40 etc.

Thank you.

Where's the bolt you're referring to located? What is left of the wrenching feature?

Well, you're discounting two of the best tricks. An impact wrench and a torch.

Is the bolt head simply stripped?

You could try this. I haven't used it, but it looks good.

http://www.sears.com/sr/craftsman/whatsnew/cr_ct_cooltooldetail.jsp?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertic al=TOOL&Tool_Id=45

Here's what is advertised http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?vertical=TOOL&pid=00952165000&bidsite=& BV_UseBVCookie=Yes but you may be best off going to a local shop and having them heat/impact the bad boy off.

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You might try a dremel type tool with a fine bit like attachment .
I have use this method with success.

good luck

A trick that has worked for me on a few occasions has been to drill into a screw or bolt, and then rather than pulling the drill back out, switch it to reverse, squeeze the trigger, and slowly pull it out.

It's not a P-car but I promised a friend I'd help him with his rotor/pad replacement. It appears like starting from inboard, first there are the rotors that are held in place by a device that looks like a Porsche spacer. That is, it has its own studs for mounting the wheels, but it also uses 4 hex bolts to "sandwich in" the rotor. Not only is one of them stripping, but it's also rather "shallow." Only about 1/4inch bolt head to grip, which also makes the socket slide right off. Three came off w/o much hassle, the last one held us up.

If I do get a hold of a torch, and "torch" the head off, what can I do to remove the rest of the bolt?

Matt, that looks interesting. I may have to get a hold of these.

Thanks guys. I'm sure I wasn't the first to come across these bloody bastards. :)

weld a nut onto it and turn the nut

Don't burn the head off. Use it to heat the area Cherry red and tap once or twice to break the seal. When it's that hot it will most likely play nice. If you can't get a grip with the socket then cut a slot into the center of the bolt head. Use a LARGE screwdriver with a wrench on the shaft to get some good torque. Again this must be done when it's Hot.

Another thick would be to weld a large nut onto the smaller bolt head....but it's not looking like you have access to this type of equipment.

search for "dremelyournutsoff"

There are times when drilling the head off releases the pressure and other times when it is necessary to drill out the entire bolt and retap the thread or add a helicoil if necessary.

Tools of the trade include heat, punch/hammer/chisel, assorted drilling with easy outs, pipe wrench, dremel. The best way to approach a stubborn bolt is to do the least aggresive solutions first, then attack and start cutting metal if necessary.

A stripped hex head or cap screw (allen head) can sometimes be grabbed with a small pipe wrench with good jaws. But when there's nothing left to grab, it's usually time to start cutting.

What RickM said, the Sears Bolt Outs work very well, I wish they had them 20 years ago.

Don't put heat on the caliper itself!!
A long time ago I watched a friend use oxy/ac to remove a bleeder screw. The brake hose blew up like a ballon and popped.
The small canister of MAPP gas might be a little hotter/focused than propane(?).

If the bolt is really stuck this might not work, but, you can cut a slot (or cross) across the bolt head with a dremel and use a flathead or phillips screw driver.

Know what a basin wrench is? It's a plumbing tool designed for removing the flat nuts that hold a faucet to a sink. They've got good grip, though not nearly as strong as a pair of Vice Grips, are capable of handling a number variety of different sizes, will fit in rather tight spaces where a traditional pipe wrench wont, and will work on nuts and studs. The long handle will usually give you good leverage as well. Heat it, and apply a little pressure with the wrench. But shoot, if your gonna go spend the money, get Sears Bolt Outs. Got some as a present, worek pretty well.

Thanks everyone. Lots of great suggestions to add to my arsenal. Will systematically give them all a try.

Use a die grinder or a dremel.

I think we should see the offending bolt first (or what's left of it) before rendering a verdict. However, one of the above suggestion should do it.

Sherwood