Chain Tensioner Rebuilding
 

I'm looking to rebuild some of the spring loaded mechanical tensioners. Did a search and I've seen a number of people mention doing this and buying the rebuild kits. I called Pelican today and they do not sell the kit.

Does anyone know a source for the rebuild kit (or have a Pelican part #)?

Thanks.

the dealer kits are better than aftermarket. the orings are better.

Thanks for the lead. I called my local P-car dealer. The kits are only $23.80 after my 15% PCA discount. :)

I appreciate your adhearence to stock/original spec's but what else is keeping you from converting to the updated oil fed tensioners? Just wondering...
Jt

Well, I've gone back and forth about doing the pressure feds. There is some sentiment that the non-pressure fed's are more bulletproof if done properly. This means rebuilding the tensioners, converting to the new idler arms, and using the safety collars. It's maybe a bit cheaper but not enough to do it for that reason IMO.

The pressure feds can (in theory) fail and some also say that they aren't a good match for early engines as they bleed off oil pressure. Here are a couple of threads that I have stumbled across-

Chain Tensioners Rebuilt?
Tensioner question
Solid chain tensioners or Pressure fed??

Nah, the match is perfect for old engines too. I do not think that they bleed off any significant pressure. If you are worried about that, just install the cam oil restrictors (a 993 part Wayne mentions in his book) while you are at it!

As I had mentioned in the first thread you link to, the pressure fed tensioners *can* be made bulletproof, if you modify them. Just like the collars on the old style, they then will never collapse.

Also note, the main failure mechansim is the narrow idler arm base that runs without a bushing on the earlier cars. It is really not the tensioner itself. Im my opinion it is MANDATORY to change to the wider idler arm (1980 and up had it) that has a bushing too. This way it won't cock and seize on the shaft.

I have recently upgraded my tensioners. I was in there already and couldn't resist the temptation. If you sell the car, your investment will be returned. There isn't many upgrades that you can say this about! People freak out if they see a car without the upgrade. ;)

Cheers, George

My car just clocked 100,300 mi. w/o the upgrade. I belive they have never been rebuilt. Looking to do something about it soon...
Thanks for those other links.
Jt

Agreed! Porsche thinks enough of the 993 cam oiling restrictors that the early ones are discontinued and they all supercede to the new restrictor.

Put them in last year and it raised the warm idle oil pressure to almost 1.5 bar!

There is no 'big failure problem' with the pressure fed tensioners. Your odds of failing an early tensioner are definetly higher.

If it really worries you there is a 50¢ fix to fail-safe a pressure fed tensioner. Simply disassemble the tensioner and stack small washers under the piston to adjust how war it can collapse if it were to fail. Think about something in the .080" to .100" range.

Wayne

Jt:

No big deal. My 81 had 150k miles when I did the upgrade. Records showed a tensioner rebuild and install of collars at about 130k. I bet those were the original ones too! I am sure you could just check yours and keep running them with the collars. Of course, once you are in there ...

George

Yeah, those restrictors rock. They got my oil pressure up a bar when hot all across the board.

George

OK, so I did a search on the restrictors and am mostly up to speed. I need to order the two updated restrictors and the washers for them. Will the current banjo fitting on the oil lines work or do I need some additional pieces?

My brain fart on the washers was I originally bought 4 each. You actually need 6. One under the restrictor and one on either side of the banjo.

BTW: It uses your current banjo. Just put them in!


Wayne