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I just ordered a replacement drivers side door skin.
What is the best method for attaching it to the door shell? Weld it or use the new 3m panel adhesive? Anyone done this? Any tricks to it? Thanks!
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Thanks Todd I drank what? = Party out of bounds - PriceLESS - BudWIZER "Boy Im gonna burn you a new one! - A new what officer?" = night in jail 993'ish Widebody bastardo http://hypertec.ws/todd_porsche/photos/
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Posts: 37,823
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If Series900 doesn't chime in, find him and ask. He knows this one. So does KevinP73 (is that the right handle?)
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Here you go... Replacing 911 Door Skins
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Warren & Ron, may you rest in Peace. |
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Winnipeg
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While on the subject, can anyone comment on if the skin would be easier to allign to the door frame if the door was in place during this step? It seems to me that you might avoid unforseen allingnment problems this way. Maybe you could use this to your advantage and improve your gaps?
Tim K |
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1.367m later
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give me some time and I'll post pics from a job I recently finished.
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non velox ad propitiare, verisimile non oblivisci If it's not The Original Automotive Innovations and Restoration, then it's just hot AIR. |
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I guess what I was asking was can you install the door skin with only the new 3m panel bond
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Thanks Todd I drank what? = Party out of bounds - PriceLESS - BudWIZER "Boy Im gonna burn you a new one! - A new what officer?" = night in jail 993'ish Widebody bastardo http://hypertec.ws/todd_porsche/photos/
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1.367m later
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There are a couple points in the process that will require welding.
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non velox ad propitiare, verisimile non oblivisci If it's not The Original Automotive Innovations and Restoration, then it's just hot AIR. |
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Kevins, Appears that you use a combination of welds and adhesive. Looks to be a very sound approach.
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Warren & Ron, may you rest in Peace. |
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1.367m later
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Sorry to be so late in responding.....busy day.
The doors on this mostly cherry 912 showed some early signs of rust along the bottom. A closer inspection revealed that the entire skin had a layer of filler up to 1/4' thick in some places. So the decision to replace both skins was made. I start by grinding through the edge of the skin on the rear edge and along the lower edge of the door. You'll need to melt out some factory lead at the top of the rear of the door. On the forward edge of the door you can use a panel knife to seperate the two panels. Sorry I don't have a picture for this part of the process. A panel saw is used to seperate the skin from the frame on the top.
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non velox ad propitiare, verisimile non oblivisci If it's not The Original Automotive Innovations and Restoration, then it's just hot AIR. |
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: D.C. Suburbia
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Kevin - great pictures and explanation.
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Chris M 1985 911 Carrera w/ 3.6 |
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1.367m later
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This is typical for doors that are 30 years or older. Moisture sits in between the panels and eventually forms rust.
In an effort to provide a little extra noise control I apply a layer or "Wurth" rocker panel coating to the inside of the door frame and skin. You wouldn't do this if you were concerned about weight. Once the flange is cleaned of rust and debri apply a bead of panel adhesive the length of the door bottom and up the rear edge. (sorry again no pictures) You have about an hour before the panel adhesive gets hard. A hammer and dolly is used to fold the panel over the flange. The forward edge of the door is welded in place using a pinch welder. The pinch welder is also used to weld the two panels along the leading edge of the door and on the top where the window frame rests. Re-install the door on the car and double check your fit. Prime and paint, re-assemble, Done!!
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non velox ad propitiare, verisimile non oblivisci If it's not The Original Automotive Innovations and Restoration, then it's just hot AIR. Last edited by KevinP73; 05-28-2004 at 08:59 PM.. |
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