Sump Screen Cover Torque Spec ?

[dandrews64]

First time poster-First time owner here.

Got an '82 911SC Targa.

Changed the engine oil yesterday and checked the sump screen. Good news is no chunks.

But, I can't find a torque spec for the eight 10mm nuts that hold the cover on. Anybody have this?

Other random questions: where are the brake light and reverse light switches (and how do I get to them?).

Is it possible to drain and refill the tranny oil without removing the tranny? I want to remove what I think is called the fork cover and feel around for chunks, but that requires draining the gear oil.

Thanks for any help !

- Doug

(PS: If there is way I could have searched all threads, forgive me I did not see how. Let me know if there is a way.)

(PPS: Wayne, add this torque spec to your book for the next release.)

[vash]

i cut and pasted this from something warren told me along time ago. works like a charm:

"A good method of torquing the M8 nuts without a 1/4" drive torque wrench is to use four fingers on a six-point box-end wrench, choked-up right next to the box-end ... tighten all eleven exhaust cover nuts snug, first, but not full tightness ... then tighten in a criss-cross pattern snug with just four-finger tight, but not hard enough to hurt the fingers while tightening!"

the torque value us way too low for any of my torque wrenches anyways. plus i use the same thing for my valve cover hardware. no leaks.

[Jim Sims]

From Mr. Silverthorne's 8th grade metal shop class; required of all male students back when the education system didn't give a hoot about one's self esteem or if you were going to college or not:

"Bolts and screws are identified by the shank or thread diameter not by the wrenching feature size on the head."


All of your questions have been covered numerous times on this board. Learn to use the search button up on the right; type in "sump" and "torque" as keywords and do a search in the "Porsche 911 Technical Forum". You will get a list of threads; one will tell you that for the 6mm sump threads/nuts a torque of 10Nm or 7 ft-lbs is appropriate. Since it is highly unlikely you have a torque wrench down at this range use a combination wrench and hand tighten but hold the wrench right at the box end at the nut so you can't gain much leverage.

915 tranmission may be drained and filled while installed in car; ensure you can remove fill plug before you pull the drain plug. Shift fork guide cover plate can be removed for inspection after draining; you need a new paper gasket for this joint.

Reverse switch is on front nose of tranmission under car just above the tranmission mount/support piece. Brake switch is on the pedal cluster in the driver's footwell.

Cheers, Jim

[dandrews64]

Thanks for the info Jim and Unfixed.

Yes, Jim you are quite correct. After my post, I discovered the magic search button (I just knew it was there somewhere) and lots of answers.

Also, it appears the spec is in Wayne's book after all - it's in the engine rebuild section.

Sorry for taking up space.

[Speed Buggy]

Pictures of car?
Cheers

[Jim Sims]

Don't worry about the space or bandwidth; just search first, then post if you can't find answers to your questions or need clarification. You'll often get your answers more quickly doing a search. Cheers, Jim

[dandrews64]

Speed, here is the link to the Porsche Consignment shop where I bought it in November 2003:
http://www.hitecauto.com/gallery.php?dd=www.hitecauto.com:auto:326
Looks like the link still works.

She's just a driver, but the grin factor is still there. And it's been a great First Porsche. I need to take better pics, since I've done stuff since then.

- Car has 131,000 miles on it. Original California car, still have the owners manual with dealership service stamps in it. Looks like I'm the fourth or fifth owner. Everything works.
- Slight puff of blue smoke when first starting if it sits for a week.
- First, Second, and Reverse can be - shall we stay - stubborn. But I've learned some tricks to coerce it into gear.
- The leather seats are split at the seams, hence the seat covers.
- I put the PVC dash cover on it, b/c the dash was (is) toast.
- Alpine tunes
- New rear tires Proxess FZ4 (or is it FX?)
- Pop-off valve (already had Carrera cam chain tensioners)
- Full tuneup, but had to put the fuel filter back on due to new one leaking. Need to find exact same one - purolator - and try again. I think at some point the couplings/fittings were changed and the factory spec filter threads don't match. I should post pictures of the plugs; they had not been changed in a very long time. Cleaned throttle body - REALLY nasty goo in there.
- Oil change. Found some white goop in the tank drain plug. Any ideas?
- fan & AC belts.
- Power antenna replaced. The original one was toast.
- other random stuff: shift knob tolerance ring, air box straps, targa top handle, Billet ignition ring, and some weatherstripping TLC on the Targa top.

In short I've cleaned it up a bit, both cosmetically and mechanically. Runs very nicely.

[vash]

get the correct fuel filter for your car. pelicanparts sells everything. white goop in the oil tank is showing you that you are not driving the car enough to heat the stuff up. drive more. hell, i would buy the tune up kit from pelican and set a "baseline".

nice car!

[Jim Sims]

Things to do a search on:

Pop off valve in air box (good).
Pausing in neutral when shifting 915 (good).
915 fill and drain plugs versus shift detent plugs (save a headache).
Disconnecting battery when engine is running (bad).
Punching odometer reset button while moving (likely bad).
Not using the correct oil filter (bad).
Overfilling oil tank (bad).
Closing the hood and back hatch correctly (good).
Using all the shims with fan pulley (good).
Continuing to drive when the alternator light is on or without a fan belt (can be very bad).
Using too big of a fuse (bad).

Cheers, Jim

[VaSteve]

Ahh, a Brown Targa, and an SC....You're in good company...