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1fastredsc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Las Cruces, NM
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Got fuel but no spark

I just put the motor back in, installed everything, cranked for oil pressure, checked for leaks, all clear. Then i hooked up the fuel pump relay, and manually lifted the air flow plate to get it pumping, once i got fuel to the motor by checking for spray through the pop off valve in the air box, i checked for leaks and everything is fine. Cranked it up, tried to start it and nothing. Checked for power at the ignition, solid, checked for power at the coil, nothing, bingo. Why would there be no power at the coil if the ignition has power?

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2007 Mazda 3 hatch
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Old 05-31-2004, 05:07 PM
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Quick question to add as well, that ground wire coming out of the harness next to the coil, where do you guys ground it to. I grounded mine to the fan, but i'm thinking now that that might now be a good source of ground.
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2007 Mazda 3 hatch
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Old 05-31-2004, 05:20 PM
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2007 Mazda 3 hatch
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Old 05-31-2004, 06:54 PM
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the coil ground it's ok check the gap in the points and check if you have spark in cyl#1 wire and coil.
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Last edited by Yellowbird RS; 05-31-2004 at 07:26 PM..
Old 05-31-2004, 07:24 PM
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no points, this is a later model distributor. and the wires going to the coil have no power. plus my timing light hooked up to wire #1 wasn't reading anything. the system was working fine when i took the motor out last year, why wouldn't it work now?
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2007 Mazda 3 hatch
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Old 05-31-2004, 09:32 PM
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OK, quick update. I tried one more time this morning. I went looking through the electrical diagram and it says that pins 31/1 and A go to the coil directly. So i took my multimeter and tested resistence between the terminals 31/1 - A at the ignition box, and the wires at the coil to energize it. I got no resistence meaning that the connections are good, and there shouldn't be any breaks. Then i put a very small dab of dielectric grease in the two terminals that connect to the box going to the coil. Then i pulled the main spark wire going to the distributor to ground it out to the motor and see if it arches. No power at the coils sides, and no arching at the wire. Does it sound like the ignition is bad, or is it possible for the coil to be bad? Also if the ignition box hums when i turn the ignition on, does that mean it's good, bad, or possible either?
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Old 06-01-2004, 06:36 AM
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JOT MON ABBR OTH
 
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The humming from the ignition box might be a good or bad indicator. What type of box do you have? My PermaTune always whined until it went bad. The MSD does not whine. I do not remember about the Bosche.

Very basic question, please do not be insulted. I've done this to myself before: are all the connections fully seated? Did the ends of the wires go into the distributor cap? Have you checked the plug wires to ensure they are good? Is it possible the coil has gone bad?

Sorry to have more questions than answers, but I think these will help diagnose what is happening with your baby.
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Old 06-01-2004, 06:47 AM
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I don't know how to test the coil, it's a bosche, all connections that i can tell are fully connected and triple checked, plug wires are new, and it's not arching when i disconnected the main coil spark wire.
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2007 Mazda 3 hatch
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Old 06-01-2004, 07:07 AM
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1fast,

Exact same thing happened to me just a month ago when I put our motor back in. Everything seemed fine but no spark.

It was that darn little green wire that comes out of the distributor. If it is cracked or bent and old then that could very well be your issue. It is responisble for sending the signal to the CD box so that makes it look like the coil is bad.

I got a replacement for $25 and it fired right up.

Do a search for "green wire" and you will find all of the info you need.

Good luck, and by the way, did you put the muffler on that I sold you?
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Old 06-01-2004, 07:37 AM
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I second the little green wire, and I forgot about that little bugger. If the insulation is cracked, replace it! This could be the root of all your troubles.
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David
'83 SC Targa (sold ) MANLY babyblue honda '00 F250 7.3L (MINE!)
'15 F250 Gas (Her Baby) '95 993 (sold )
I don't take scalps. I'm civilized like white man now, I shoot man in back.
Old 06-01-2004, 08:48 AM
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Sorry guys, i was trying to finish this yesterday morning because i caught a plane to jersey in the afternoon, so now i'm on vacation. I'll continue messing with the car when i get back. Which green wire are you guys talking about, don't know where it is? Any Pics maybe? BTW, slider, yes, your muffler is installed. Search for one of my other posts, i'm sure you'll find a picture of it from the back.
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2007 Mazda 3 hatch
1972 Porsche 914 roller with plenty of holes to fix
Old 06-02-2004, 04:28 AM
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The green wire is coming off the backside of your distributor, on the right as you look into the engine bay. There is a small connector that you would have removed during the re-build and then re-attached after putting her back together.

I do not have my books with me, but there is a photo in the re-build book and the CD.
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David
'83 SC Targa (sold ) MANLY babyblue honda '00 F250 7.3L (MINE!)
'15 F250 Gas (Her Baby) '95 993 (sold )
I don't take scalps. I'm civilized like white man now, I shoot man in back.
Old 06-02-2004, 06:13 AM
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Check between pins 7 & 31 on the CDI connector. You should measure
600 ohms and about 1.0 volts A.C. when cranking. Be careful with the
green wire. The outer wire (shield) goes to pin 31.

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Old 06-02-2004, 12:34 PM
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