Can too much force/torque/wrench on a CV bolt effect the transmission?

[H.G.P.]

Wondering if it is possible to create transmission problems by using too much pressure in loosening/tightening CV bolts?

When loosening should the tranny be in gear?

Should the opposite wheel be fixated?

Thank you.

[Jim Sims]

Engage the parking (hand) brake. Jim

[H.G.P.]

OK, however the hand brake at max, the wheel can turn still (just a small amount). I'd prefer not to tightened the emergency brake even more, but sounds like I might need to.

[RANDY P]

Sounds like you need to adjust the parking brake. If you're still seeing movement now with just wrench action what would happen if you were on a hill?

A torque wrench is in order too. Follow the recommendations for tightening. (don't have torque specs here)

rjp

[304065]

HGP:

I just three weeks ago replaced both CV axles complete.

Forget the parking brake or engaging a gear. Even if you have a helper, it's not as fast as the method I used, and you don't want a helper sitting in the car when you're under it. Stick a screwdriver through the vents in the brake disc, so when you turn the axle it locks against the caliper. it works great. Unless you remove the rear shock bolt, you will need a couple of long extensions for the torque wrench in order to apply torque to the stub axle bolts: you can't fit a typical 12" torque wrench under the car and swing it unless the car's on a lift.

The torque spec for the M10 bolts is 60 ft/lbs. That's a DRY spec: if you have ANY grease or oil on the threads you must reduce the torque setting by the appropriate setting. I have a little book called "Pocket Ref" that gives the spec, but you might just want to clean the flanges and bolts thoroughly with brake cleaner to remove any grease before running the bolts through.

When you have everything bolted up, clean the CVs of any grease on the outside and get some bright-colored paint (I used red because it's what I had in the hangar) and put "witness marks" across the bolts and the CV's. That way, after your test runs and a few hundred miles, you will be able to see if the CV bolts have rotated, requiring a re-torque.

Good luck!

[H.G.P.]

OK. I'm out into the garage in 10 minutes to take a look. I have long extensions I used to replace my flywheel. The CV joint is in good operating condition currently, but may need a new outside boot...... I'm going to start to test my abilities with my new philosophy...."one bolt at a time".

Thanks

[curiousone940]

Better have a good impact wrench to remove the rear axle nut...if yours has not been off in awhile, it could be a real PITA. Porsche recommends probably a minimum of 225 lbs of torque. Once you have the nut off, the rest is not too bad. Make sure those hex bolts connecting the CV assembly to the transmission are good and clean and your hex tool is firmly seated before removing...a stripped out bolt head can make for some real headaches (usually in the form of a grinder).

[Jim Sims]

On a '69 one doesn't need to remove the axle nut to remove the CV joints.

[H.G.P.]

Well, it was dirty under there tonight....too dirty to try any bolt removal yet. Many paper towels were expended. Sprayed some Blaster on some of the bolts, will let them soak before any attempt to "nudge" any of them.

That axle nut looks like it's never been removed in 35 years. So Jim's post brings some cheers.

The boot by the tranny on that side is still intact no tears, so I'm dealing with the outer boot only at this stage.

[qikcpa]

Just removed mine for an engine drop. It sucked having to get up each time to lock the parking break, take a bolt off, unlock break, turn wheel, lock break, get next bolt...and so on. After the 2nd bolt I lowered the car till the wheels were about 1" off the ground. Layed under the car with a six inch long piece of wood 2X4. Car in neutral parking break disengaged. Started with the transmission side cv joint. Turned the wheel till a bolt was easily accessible. At that point jammed the block of wood against the tire in a wedging manner under the direction of rotation (youll note as you try to remove the bolt which way the wrench tourques the tire). Loosend the bolt. removed block of wood, turned tire from underneath car to make the next bolt accessible, jammed wood back under tire. After the transmission side was done I used the same method for the Wheel side of the axle. You cant do it the other way around cause... well youll figure it out. Took less than 10 minutes per axle. without all the getting up and down.

[qikcpa]

PS:
Disclaimer. Be sure the car is well supported on quality jackstands, with both the front wheels chocked (sp?) in front and back of the tires. I guess if you tourqe the cv axle hard enought it could cause the car to just roll forward or back. That would be no fun...Don't try this at home.

[H.G.P.]

The bolts thus far, are moving, so now next I'm trying to visualize what Jim said on what happens with the axle when the joint bolts are out? (i.e..since he sites above that the castelated nut apparently does not need removal on a 69.) ?






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[Jim Sims]

We'll probably nothing as the CV-joints (you took 4-10mm screws out of each joint?) on a '69 also each contain two "Spirol" shear pins that cross the connection from the joint to the connecting flanges on the wheel hubs and transmission output. These pins will tend to hold the connection together even with the screws removed. You will need to separate the two sides of the connection with a soft faced dead blow hammer. Hit the heavy metal part (not the thinner metal at the base of the boot) of the CV joint with a glancing blow directed away from the wheel or transmission. If that doesn't work you can make a non-marring wedge out of a plastic tent peg and drive it into the joint at the paper gasket to force the joint apart. So people use a screwdriver or chisel to separate the joints from the flanges but that usually ends up scarring the CV-joint edges ever so slightly. Once you get the pins loose, the axle can be pulled downward off the flanges. Keep it supported by the CV joints so the joints don't swivel to extreme angles as they can come apart dropping the balls out. Jim

[H.G.P.]

Yes, 4 10mm screws. Thanks Jim. It's going well so far.

[Jim Sims]

This is what the flange on the wheel will look like after you lower the axle and CV joints. Four of the holes will be through holes with internal threads and two will be blind holes without threads (for the "Spirol" shear pins). Jim

[H.G.P.]

OK, now it's clear............Is there any danger in damage to the pins?

[Jim Sims]

No, they are extremely strong and tough. Here's what the flanges look like on the transmission. Jim

[H.G.P.]

OK great. I'll hope to have a picture tomorrow of the axle out! Thanks (looks like I need to clean more

[304065]

HGP if you bugger the pins send me a PM, I have two extras unused from Pelican that I'll mail you, free, from one LWB "E" owner to another!

[H.G.P.]

It's out Some comments: All went as Jim said. The wheel joint used both the gasket and the washers with the bolts. Both came out with plenty of grease still in there. But I did not see any gasket used on the tranny CV joint.

Now preparing for the new boot(s). Not sure what to clean with before the new boot(s). The axle itself is quite dirty, and I think may need to be "washed"..but with what?

Thank for all the help everyone!