Paint experts, help! (pics)

[K. Roman]

I have a silver SC from 1980. Here is an interesting paint problem. It looks like maybe rust underneath or water may have damaged the paint and caused it to bubble then crack. The whole area is the size of a deck of cards.
can I fix this myself, and if so what would I need?
What about the silver paint and clear coat? It's original paint so it's a good 23 yr's old. Any advice will make my day.
Thanks.

[Allenk]

Hmmm, I guess I would get up under the fender and see the extent of the rust. If the panel has pitted through, then the problem will keep coming back unless you remove the corroded area. I've actually seen that more on repaints then original paint. Typically bondo over a rusted pitted area. It may be a bigger fix than anticipated.

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by K. Roman
I It looks like maybe rust underneath or water may have damaged the paint and caused it to bubble then crack.

from here it looks like only the clear lifted.. if so then maybe it was shot with Glasurit. oh, Glasurit sucks imo.

[makaio]

I've got a flaw like that on my passenger door on my SC. I've determined that mine is from a quick patch job from a door ding, before the re-paint went on.

I'm guessing if yours is on the fender, then it could be casued by a small rock such as a piece of gravel hitting the underside.

[K. Roman]

It's actually above the drivers side door handle. I've checked inside the door and there isn't any rust behind it. I put some clear nail polish on top of it to seal it from any water. That's the clear you're seeing. I can probably peel that off.
Any other comments to what can be done are welcomed.

[RoninLB]

have a shop shoot the whole door with clear.

[Allenk]

That is strang......And corrosive materials been in the area? Been charging the battery or anything? I guess I would second the idea of clearing the door.

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by Allenk
That is strang......

not really for Glasurit. it may start as itty bitty bubbles that looks like a rough finish that needs to be sanded.

[Aussie]

Looks like it might have had a bit resprayed where the new paint hasn't bonded well.

[BGCarrera32]

Originally posted by RoninLB
from here it looks like only the clear lifted.. if so then maybe it was shot with Glasurit. oh, Glasurit sucks imo.

Never used Glasurit...what don't you like about it? Are you referring to their clears only or their product on the whole? Just curious...

[widebody911]

Looks to me like improper prep on the lower layer. I'd take it down at least one layer and re-shoot it.

[targa80]

If you have a two stage paint job (base/clear-coat) then I believe the car has been repainted. My 1980 car was originally a single stage paint job. I decided to shoot the two stage when I repainted.

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by BGCarrera32
Never used Glasurit...what don't you like about it? Are you referring to their clears only or their product on the whole? Just curious...

The clear sucks, not the colors.
I confirmed my thoughts with an LA high end shop owner for over 30yrs. He said it's a common problem. He said he has to use the factory materials to maintain value and often will renew the clear on the high end cars at no cost to the customer years later.

[RickM]

Originally posted by RoninLB
The clear sucks, not the colors.
I confirmed my thoughts with an LA high end shop owner for over 30yrs. He said it's a common problem. He said he has to use the factory materials to maintain value and often will renew the clear on the high end cars at no cost to the customer years later.

I agree. I prefer Glasurit for single stage jobs but not with clear. Look at the clear on many of the 90s BMWs...they have a lifting and/or cloudy clear coat.

I wasn't aware that you could respray clear without redoing the base coat. There's a window in which to apply the clear after the color coat goes down.

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by RickM
Look at the clear on many of the 90s BMWs...they have a lifting and/or cloudy clear coat.

I wasn't aware that you could respray clear without redoing the base coat.

I never had to do a shoot after cured metalics, but I'm sure there's a way. Clear over cured solids is easy because all you have to do is fine sand the color for a bite.

[BGCarrera32]

Ron- thanks for the info. -BG

[K. Roman]

Pardon me for hi-jacking my own thread, but does anyone else have a comment on what to do?

[RickM]

K,

I would attempt a repair by using the standard fine sanding/feather-edging the flaking area, recoating with a coat of clear and a final sand and polish. You may find that as you start sanding that the lifting continues to grow. In that case you'll need to go to a pro and have the panel redone.

[K. Roman]

Thanks. The silver color has lifted and cracked, there doesn't seem to be any color under it so I would need to use silver paint on it, then clear. Will that work? Or do I just need to take it in to a pro for repaint.

[makaio]

Originally posted by K. Roman
Or do I just need to take it in to a pro for repaint.

Depends on your paint skills. Myself I would take it to a pro, unless I was doing a whole car. But for someone like Ron (RoninLB) this is childs play.