Newbie, brake question
 

Is it OK to change my brake pads without bleeding the brakes? I suspect it is "RECOMMENDED", but can I get away without bleeding?

Yes, you can change the pads without bleeding the brakes (just like you can replace the pads without turning the rotors).

However, you may need to pull some brake fluid from the system to get the new pads in the calipers (the retracting pistons will force fluid back into the reservoir and can spill over). Most of us bleed the brakes at this time because it is easy since the wheels are already off and you are right there...

Sure, no problem.

(the retracting pistons will force fluid back into the reservoir and can spill over). Most of us bleed the brakes at this time because it is easy since the wheels are already off and you are right there... [/B][/QUOTE]

This really is the reason for the question; considering the brakes were at one point new and the master cylinder full of brake fluid and not overflowing, how is it then that pushing the calipers back will cause an overflow?

then someone comes along and goes, "hey my brake fluid is a bit low, let me top it off! there ya go, you little pcar, feel better?"

THEN, when you push the caliper pistons back, you overflo. most folks use a tool like a turkey baster to suck a bit of the juice out before pushing the pistons. use a new baster, and never ever let it get back together with another turkey.

I just did this Saturday for the first time on my P-car. Took me all of 40 minutes to change the fronts from metal masters to Ferado's, as long as the fluid is below the screen a bit No Problem. Open the front lid unscrew the cap before doing and take a look after you've installed one side.

Are the rears as easy to change as the fronts?

Depends on the vehicle/brake system.

The '86 930 uses the identical pads on all four corners. All can be changed without tools (well, maybe a plier to pull the spring). Someone else will have to answer that for your '88.

Yes. you could even say they are slightly easier. just pull out the small cotter type pins with a pliers instead of pounding out the cross bars. You'll see what I mean when you're in there, especially if you have a shop manual (i.e. bentley)

Better than using the turkey baster to remove some fluid from the reservoir, open the bleed screw before pushing the pistons back in to get rid of the excess fluid. This way you are disposing of the "worst" of the fluid instead of the relatively fresh fluid in the reservoir.

Mike

great 1st post mike!

Yeah Mike, welcome to the board!

Thanks -- I figure it is better to start off by offering something than by asking -- that will come later!

Mike

Ask yourself, "Self, why am I bleeding the brakes?"

Most common reason is the fluid boils at the track, introducing air bubbles into the system which must be removed.

Use Castrol SRF (do a search here) and you won't have boiling.

The next reason is, brake fluid has an affinity for moisture, and over time, moisture accumulates in the lines, rusting the system from the inside. Also, the moisture lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid, contributing to problem #1.

I use SRF and I change it once at the start of race season. I'll change pads three times without opening the reservoir.