MFI tools for DIY'er
 

In response to a subject that came up in this thread:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/169445-mfi-thermostat-spacers.html

I thought I would post a new topic to help the novice MFI DIY'er build his collection of specialty tools. So... for those that have been tinkering with MFI for awhile, please post a list of the tools you use. If anything is "home made", details wouldn't hurt. Also note whether the tool is absolutely necessary, or if it is more of a convenience or just for fun item. Include any other info you feel might be useful.

For those of you who do or have done this type of work professionally, feel free to post a list of tools you believe would be appropriate for the home mechanic. Maybe a list of the bare necessity tools, as well as a list of things that are nice to have.

For the purpose of this thread, assume anyone who will be working on their MFI already owns basic tools like sockets, combo wrenches, screwdrivers, etc.

I think this could be a great reference for those (like me) who are inclined to tune their MFI, but lack the knowledge that comes with years of experience.

Thanks

I use the basic MFI tool kit that you can buy and it works great. I also use a very long, thin screw driver to adjust the stacks. A cheapo (30) carb synch works great when adjusting stacks as well. A mirror that is about 3inches by 4 inches works great when adjusting the cam belt. Lean it up against firewall. A little grease for rod links.

Here's what I have so far. It's not all MFI specific, but if you are going to go through CMA on your own, it's all stuff you will probably need:

mirror - Sears ~$10
compression tester - Harbor Freight ~$20
Timing Light - Harbor Freight ~$20
Syncrhometer - Pelican ~$40
idle and main adjustment toolkit - Pelican ~$40
Gunson Gas Tester - ebay ~$175
CMA manual - download from Pelican

tobluforu,
Where did you buy the basic kit?
What tools does it contain?
How much?
How long is “very long” screw driver & what size?
Describe your “chepo” carb sync. Where to buy?

I think donk’s purpose here is to build a thread that is most informative to novice DIY and perhaps some shops and professional mechanics that want to become experienced MFI.

Best,
Grady

...a multitester will also come in handy

belt adjustment with mirror? i tried it last week

that bugger was impossible to get off the cam
let alone viewing the little mark on the pump with a mirror

i'm not even getting the belt it off the cam , so getting it back!?!?
i'm dropping my engine a bit.. gotten quite used to it by now....

The Gunson tool is old technology. This is what you really need:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/catalog/shopcart/MISC/POR_MISC_INNOVT_pg1.htm

-Wayne

I bought the MFI kit from performance products about 12 years ago. It contains a long T-handle allen wrench to take allen bolt out. It also has a long thin screw driver to fit in upper hole to adjust. It also contains a long rod with a mini socket on the end that fits through the fan to adjust the idle.The carb synch I bought from my local speed shop. I think pelican may have them. It fits over the hole in the stack, not in it like some do. There is a little plastic bead that floats when you put it over the stack.
There is no need to take belt off to adjust sprocket on MFI pump. That is unless the pump is way off. That sprocket when loosened will move a few teeth.
I bought the screw driver form sears. They have ones that are 2 feet in length.

I've made several tools to help on my MFI.

Here's my main rack adjuster tools: simply slightly modified allen keys:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088704424.jpg

Then, the idle adjuster: this is simply an 8 mm socket that is ground down in length and that is taped to the end of a socket extension. The tape is to avoid dropping the socket inside the fan shroud when pulling it out. The tape at the other end is fro torque:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088704534.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088704546.jpg

Reaching the individual throttle stops on the pump is pretty hard, and I made the following to turn the lock nuts:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088704619.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088704626.jpg

Here's the synchrometer that I use:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088704665.jpg

Hope this helps

Michel Richard

Here is the first tool you need:
Always check the cylinder leakage as STEP ONE.
Adjusting MFI with an engine that has excess cylinder leakage
is just getting it out of adjustment.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088800958.jpg

Here is my 911 adaptor to screw in the sparkplug hole. "Of local manufacture."
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088801082.jpg


Best,
Grady

Bosch MFI nozzle tester.

This is not something a DYI should own but find local access to it.
If you can't find one in you local Porsche circle,
try a long established MB dealer.
"
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1089560246.jpg "
(C) 1969 Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche A.G.

This is a very worthwhile tool to have access to.

Best,
Grady

P233b
 

Here is the Factory P-Tool P233b for measuring fuel
pressure at the fuel filter console.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1089564236.jpg

It is also easy to make this gauge locally.
A good 30 psi gauge will work great.

Note on the left the fitting between the gauge and the banjo.
I made an eight-foot hose with mating fittings so we could monitor fuel
pressure while driving, cold start, etc. With a long hose,
you want to bleed the air out of the system.
The low-limit spec is: 0.8 bar +/- 0.2 bar (11.8 psi +/- 3.0 psi).
If low, the first thing is to replace the fuel filter.

I don’t know where to find that double length banjo bolt that comes with the P-Tool.
I’ll bet it is a standard DIN part and is available commercially.
When using the long banjo bolt, you need three aluminum crush washers to seal everything.
The body of the bolt is nominal 14 mm (13.9 mm.) It is 42 mm long under the head.
The hollow is 9 mm and the ports are about 6 mm. The hex is 19 mm.
It is just a double long version of your existing banjo bolt.

If you are a racer, this is a good place to have a “fuel sample” port.
You can take the OE banjo bolt, (901.110.917.00) “Tubular screw – Hohlschraube”
and fabricate a fitting in the center of the banjo bolt head.
Keep it where a 19 mm wrench will fit over the fitting to tighten the banjo bolt.
It can also double as the fuel pressure measuring fitting.
A -2 fitting should work well.
If you want it to appear "Porsche" use the 4.5 x 9.5 hose
(999.180.150.50), same as the cold start.

Always keep in mind the extreme fire hazard
when working around gasoline!

Best,
Grady

Hey Grady- just a thought.

That injector tester reminds me of the homemade pumps we use to use to pump up the hydrolastic units in our Mini Coopers. You basically adapt a brake master cylinder unit (a mini one for these, of course ;) ) and have a similar lever arrangement to make the pumping effort less. It was either that or the factory pump- which no-one ever had when needed the most.

Any idea if this could work? Or are brake systems less pressure than MFI injectors?

Thanks Grady, This thread is pure gold.