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finally found time to install turbo tie rods and ERP drop links
started by jacking front of car and removing both wheels.
heres the old ones http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088966203.jpg heres why i need drop links - out end of rod much higher than rack end. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088966251.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088966268.jpg remove rod ends first - left side fell out with hammer applied http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088966354.jpg other side wasn't so easy. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088966407.jpg hammer and special removal tool wouldn't work so got the drill out! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088966474.jpg i ground down the threads and then drilled the centre out with 8mm drill - fell out with a tap of the hammer. more to follow after the football....... |
remove tin protecting rack and fuel pump
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088973871.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088973899.jpg remove springs retaing rubber boots so that boots can be pulled to one side. remove rods. left side just need turning to 90 degrees, right required blunt chisel to retaining nut. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088974028.jpg rods removed from car. old v new rods http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088974076.jpghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088974131.jpg |
assemble new rods same length as old. i replaced turbo rod ends with spherical bearing type supplied with drop link kit.
assembled apply thread lock http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088974268.jpg screw on new rods to rack (replace rubber boots before this if using turbo rod ends, and i also did not need the large washers/spacers supplied) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088974356.jpg |
refit rubber boots - i lubed the ends with engine oil to ease fitting.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088974477.jpg i also used zip ties - i gave up with the spring retainers! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088974518.jpg |
assembled droplinks.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088974580.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088974599.jpg finished left and right sides http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088974649.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088974672.jpg refit rack protection/wheels etc. it can be a PITA to get the rear bolts in the rack cover tin (sway bar support) and i found it much easier if i tightened up the front nuts first - this pulled the rear into line. only a small gap now http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088974740.jpg |
drives great.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088974824.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088974841.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1088974857.jpg now i need an alignment. |
Rich, car looks great!!! How low is it now? Do you plan to go lower? I am posting this link for anyone (like myself) that wonders why you would leave off the spacers.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=155818&highlight=Turbo+ tie+rod+washers |
Rich, not sure how you got by without using the rack spacers, as they're not really spacers but rack stops. Some guys on this board also did without the spacers and ruined the steering rack in no time.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/84284-steering-rack-failure.html |
I too, thought there was an necessity for the spacers. I know they look like the shorten the amount of usable thread, but I put them on just the same.
I see a Stanley dual scale tape measure. Do the Brits look at the inch scale much? :D |
Rich, it also looks like the front torsion bar adjuster is backed WAY OFF! Unless you just did that, I've been under mine all weekend installing new 22/28 t-bars so everything looked familiar except the 11mm bolt for adjusting the height.
Thanks for the write up as I'm doing the turbo's next week. |
Rick, what kind of shocks do you have & are they new?
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Thanks for the write up for those of us getting ready for this improvement. Got to love you Brit's garages. I lust after them in the back of CSC Magazine every month. Just love the carriage house look and quality wood construction over our "manufactored" looking garages.
Did you light a firecracker for us tonight :) |
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the spacers are left out with the ERP drop links, the instructions say so! and i confirmed with smart racing (as i said in the thread you refer to). Quote:
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;) but i have to confess (on the old mans behalf) that it is block construction with timber cladding (planning requirement as its in farm land area) - still it looks nice! sorry, i got side tracked by the football - but i did think of it - happy (belated) 4th july;) |
the car feels much nicer, the steering more direct. the drop links have made the car alot less "darty". i think i may have found a cure for the strange - one sided - understeer problem i was chasing. it may have been the old rubber jointed steering arms, because first impressions are that left right turns are now the same.
definitely recommend the turbo kit for anyone, and the drop link for all your lowered cars. |
Good job Rich!
There's definitely 'night & day' difference between the old rubber ones & turbo rods, those drop links look cool too! Cheers, Tim. |
Are these the 9meister drop links Rich?
How's the wee man by the way? He's keeping you busy I guess. |
Looking good Rich. Thanks for the replies on my post on generally the stuff I am talking about on my car.
Bet it feels great:D |
hey jerry, yeah it feels great to get it done at last! i've had this stuff lying around for ages.
good luck with yours. chris, no, these are the smart racing ones. he's doin great - teething:rolleyes: - thanks for asking (and remembering:) ). tim, yeah, they do feel good - hopefully i've cured the handling probs now. |
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