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What's the market like for a low mileage 84 targa?
I know, topics like this are purely subjective, but i wanted to accumulate some opinions from the people i consider to be experts. I'm thinking about selling my targa, and am curious what you all think a proper asking price for it is. On to the details:
1984 triple black carerra targa. 49,000 miles. No accident history (should be backing that up with a carfax tomorrow). Things i've done: Brand new tires & tune up, clutch adjustment at 42,000 miles Replaced all 4 rotors and calipers around 48,000 miles Added SteveW chip Completely rebuilt targa top, in beautiful condition, no leaks. Besides the chip, the car is completely stock as far as i know. Paint is still in good condition, besides the standard rock chipping that accumulates over 20 years. All records in the 1+ year i've owned it. ![]() ![]() Is 16-17k a fair starting price? What are the best places to list it? Here obviously, what about autotrader or, dare i say it, ebay? Thanks for any and all comments, -Ian |
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http://www.sloancars.com/inventory3.htm
just a data point for you: this guy has a 84 Targa, 80K miles, for $23,500 although i think his is over-priced, you should definitely raise your price, esp. if it's original with only 49K miles. I dont see why someone would not pay around $20K for your car. Last edited by on-ramp; 07-05-2004 at 06:38 PM.. |
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A car like that would get $15 k minimum to $20k in California
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Paul S "Those who say it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it" |
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I paid 16K for a 115,000 mile car with full history and repaint in Cali, I would bet you can get 20K if you are not in a hurry.
Nice car. Michael
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1984 Carrera Targa Sold to fellow Pelican 1973 911S Targa - Sold to fellow Pelican. |
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I have no idea on the price, but nice car!
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Thanks for the replies, that's certaintly a nice surprise! Michael, yours is one of the nicest targa's i've seen, not that i'm biased or anything
![]() -Ian |
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Now in 993 land ...
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Hi Ian:
Nice looking Targa. I like them best in black or dark colors, because the top then looks very integrated when installed. Here a few critical questions that I'd ask as potential buyer: Where did the euro side marker lights come from? The headlights are euro style lights too, and the chrome rings around the headlights are not stock. While the euro / H4 lights are an easy bolt on and a popular upgrade, I really wonder about the euro side markers. I never have heard that they are a popular upgrade. That said, if I were a potential buyer, I'd either think that this is an Euro car or that it was in a fender bender and got replacement fenders off a Euro donor. E.g. the body shop swapped the lights on with the fenders, instead of filling the holes. Is the mileage documented with maintenance receipts? Of course your one year of complete records on a 20 year old car won't be sufficient to document the mileage. Mileage on these cars is easily tampered with. Only a carfax and / or records that are seamless will prove the low mileage. I am positive that a buyer that would pay a premium for the low miles would like 'proof' for it. As far as value goes, I think 20k may be too much, even with records and it being a US model. At least private party value. Don't go compare the price you are going to ask with an asking price of a dealership. They offer the buyer financing, warranty options and the fact that they can walk into their high line exotic toy store and pick something off the floor. That said, there is a market for the low mileage cars and premiums are paid... Maybe you can tell us more about the history of the car? I hope this didn't come across as a bashing of your car. It is just questions that you will be confronted with if you put this beaut on the market. So, I think it is better to practise on us. ![]() Cheers, George Last edited by aigel; 07-05-2004 at 08:48 PM.. |
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Now in 993 land ...
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PS:
Was there a front spoiler option w/o the rear spoiler? I have always wondered about that. The only car I have seen like that had clear signs of a previously installed whale tail. ![]() George |
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George, that's exactly what i was looking for!! No bashing taken, you're exactly right when you say it's better to practice on you guys, that was my intent from the beginning. I too have been curious about the euro style side markers and headlights....i didn't think the car was a euro, but i could be wrong. That should be proven with the carfax tomorrow though, as well as specific mileage history. In regards to the records, the PO was a little shady and didn't offer them to me when i bought it, or just didn't have them, so i guess i'm SOL in that regard.
Are there any other specific things that seperate euro cars from US? If it were a euro car, would that add or detract from overall value? -Ian |
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PS:
Lets hope all my potential buyers aren't as observant and porsche-educated as George, otherwise i'm screwed!! ![]() -Ian |
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Now in 993 land ...
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Hi Ian:
Glad you weren't offended by my comments. Generally the Euro cars are valued significanlty less than the US model. It doesn't mean that they are worse cars, but that's just the fact. Some folks are afraid of what happened in the federalization / conversion to the US safety standards, others are worried about certain parts on the car that aren't available in the US. The other worry is the fact that central and northern Europe are a 'rust belt' area and unless the car came in new, it may have corrosion issues on the body and the lower head studs... I am not sure what other difference there is on a Carrera between the Euro and US. I know that the SC had different fuel injection bits and higher compression yielding more power. Let's see if some of the Carrera folks can step up and tell us about other things that you could check to determine what's going on. I think without any records and the chance that it is an Euro car, your initial starting price will be more realistic. Maybe you should just hold on to the car! Why are you selling it anyway??? Keep us posted! Cheers, George |
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you can tell if it is euro from the VIN. Lack of records before you hurts a bit, as it is tougher to prove the mileage (but carfax can help with that).
euro generally fetch less than US models, but they have more hp (depending on the year). |
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Quote:
![]() ![]() Anyone interested in a 3.6 78SC? -Ian |
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Now in 993 land ...
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Ian:
All right all right. That' 3.6 conversion is wort a thought! PA should be a lot easier on you to smog it than CA. I doubt that car will sell well in CA without the smog done. It's not a race car that someone would just trailer around. With the current bill in the senate, likely 76 will be the cutoff date for smog ecemption, so the hope to excempt the 78in a couple of years from now wil not become true. May that be the reason for the sale? I'd move! ![]() Cheers, George |
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On your rear bumper pads, is it wide or narrow? narrow is generally on euro bumper.
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1984 911 Euro Cabriolet 1988 928 S4 with Murf Supercharger S1 |
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Here's the VIN, can someone run it for me?
WP0EB0917ES160450 Thanks, -Ian |
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I think the "DR" may have SSI'd the car, etc. Didn't keep the smog stuff. Probably why he refuses to smog it. Great car, just not a good "sell" in CA.
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Mike 83 SC |
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If you have driven a US carrera 3.2? The stock euro '86 I drove was very noticeably faster, in line with the 24hp claimed difference vs a US 915 car.
A good way to tell is look under the car for a transmission cooler, here's a picture, credit to Bill Verburg. If it has a cooler, it's most likely a euro model. it's the multi-loop thing sticking out the side of the trans: ![]() of course this assumes it has the original transmission and should not be taken as an absolute confirmation.
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Andy |
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I believe that is US VIN. ROW should be WPZZZ as I recall (don't have my books in front of me).
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Nostatic is close. My '84 ROW is WPOZZZ.
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1984 ROW Cab |
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