Help. Leaking 2.7L engine - pics as well.

POZE · 07-13-2004, 04:05 AM

Hello
i have a 2.7L 911 1974 engine fitted to my camper van. The engine is leaking oil at a regular speed from the pic below.

if you see the pic below, where the electrical connector goes to the oil temp switch, about 5mm from the connector up the blue wire is level to where the engine is leaking from. It looks like its either a gasget leak, or i think its where the metal cube attatches to the engine casing. From beind this.

Can anyone offer advice, and/or should i take it to Porsche to have these parts removed and re-sealed etc. They seem very stiff into the case, i dont want to break anything..

and help appreciated!

Jim Sims · 09:59 AM

You can fix this one yourself. The item 2 metal seal is likely leaking. Unscrew the passenger side oil line and then loosen the hollow bolt; block (may be mounting an oil pressure sender) will then release from the engine case.

POZE · 07-13-2004, 06:09 AM

ah, thankyou for the great picture and advice.

Can i ask,: is there any chance anything will snap when i try to undo the '3', or should it come out fine with a ring spanner?

ive got Bugjam in 10 days time, and dont want to break anything.

The seals, are they porsche only,or can i just use suitable seals from a motorfactor?

Lastly, the Druck pressure guage, as in your picture dosent work, i guess my leak could bve affecting this, as its pressure related. Does that seem correct? (currently the druck just goes up to 5 when iturn ignition on)

thankyou!

Rot 911 · 07-13-2004, 06:14 AM

Poze the hollow bolt, #3, should come right out, but if it does not easily turn when you try to remove it perhaps you should wait until after the car show. The "seals" #2 and #5, are just aluminum washers. If you can find some that are the correct inner and outer diameter they should work just fine.

Finally druck is german for pressure. If the gauge is just going up to 5 when you turn the car on you either have a bad sending unit or perhaps just a corroded connection. Pull the connection off the sending unit and lightly sand both ends of the connectors.

Jim Sims · 07-13-2004, 06:25 AM

Given that the engine case is a magnesium alloy there is always a chance something could break - the hollow bolt (item 3 in the figure) could have already been overtightened in an attempt to stop the leak and thereby damaged the female threads in the case (would would be very bad as you already suspect). However, aside from this there is little risk in loosening the hollow bolt after disconnecting the oil line. Just use a good ring spanner and support the block with another tool so that you are putting more of a pure torque on the hollow bolt and not much bending on the assembly. You can likely substitute other sealing washers or clean up the old ones and reuse them with a light coating of Loctite 574 on both sides. I would tend to get the correct new washers and use Loctite 574 on clean surfaces to get a leak tight joint. The problems with the oil pressure sender appear to be wiring or an internal to the sender failure. Only remove the oil pressure sender from the block with the block removed from the engine (mount the block in a vise) as the force sometimes required to remove and install the sender in the block is enough to damage the female threads (the ones which engage item 3) in the case. Cheers, Jim

POZE · 07-13-2004, 06:30 AM

cheers guys,

perfect detailed advice. I will have a look tonight and attempy it carefully.

thankyou
poze

Porsche_monkey · 07-13-2004, 07:17 AM

I wouldn't think that the leak and the druck problem are related in any way. You should have zero druck with key on engine off. Is druck always at 5?

gerard vaglio · 07-13-2004, 07:34 AM

One other reason to wait on this repair is that if the oil line running off the block to the right is old, disturbing it much during any work in that area could cause it to start leaking.

The reason I know this is while backdating the heat on my 3.0 I must have moved these lines with my HANDS while working near them and they started leaking badly.
Over time the flexible part of the line has a tendancy to loosen from the crimpt metal sections.

This is all based on an assumption that 3.0 and 2.7 use the same style oil line.
Perhaps somone on the board can confirm this.

Good luck what ever you decide.

Porsche_monkey · 07-13-2004, 07:35 AM

Why risk bugjam?

POZE · 07-13-2004, 08:09 AM

hi guys, thanks for the further suggestions!

i want to really do the job, as it drops a resonbable amount of oil on my driveway each time i use the bus. Dont want to wreck/stain the driveway much more than it already is.

The leak occurs when the engines on tickover as well, i can see it seeping out from that area, probably those metal washer area.

I also dont want to look crap when i turn up at the show with an oil leak, you dont see many BD porsche engined buses, this is the first in England, so i want to make a good apprearance.

*Druck (PBH)
As far as this goes, with the key off, its below 0 at the bottom of the guage, then soon as i turn key ING on, it flies up to the top, just above 5. Dosent move from there at all. Im sure i have it wired corectly,:
1 wire to power on ign
1 to earth
1 to guage (where my prob is).

Cheers!