PLEASE HELP!! New axle is on, but the brake is now STUCK!

jbripps · jbripps's Garage

Hi all,

This is a follow up thread. I just replaced my passenger side axle. I fastened the bolts to the tranmission portion first, and then once I had one bolt in on the wheel side, I noticed that I could not rotate the rotor anymore. I thought "geez", what the hell did I do? Anyhow, I removed the bolt, and the axle had play once again. By the way, yes, brake off, and tranny in neutral, the same way I removed the bolts to begin with.

So, I fastened the rest of the bolts, without torqueing for now, but they are pretty tight. The brake pad is engaged and pressed against the rotor, so I figured I must had pressed or forced one of the cables that go to the caliper.

With that, I decided just to put the wheel back on, start her up and pump the brake to see if the brake would disengage, BUT NO!

The car does pull, so I think I've got the axle on correctly?

WHAT THE HECK DID I DO? I played with a few cables to see if I could get the brake to release, but no go. Please help me, I've got a DE in a few days!! Could I have reversed the joints to the axle? It does fit fine, and bolts went in easily on both sides.

regards,

katigbr · 06-24-2004, 08:24 PM

Jon,
I just went through a similar issue. I'd verify the differences in cv joint thickness and bolt lengths. I discovered that my new axles were about 1/2 inch thinner and caused the old bolts to contact the rotor! A few minutes with a hacksaw fixed the problem. Try backing off the bolts and see if it frees up. If so, problem found. If not, I'd check to see if the parking brake cable is loose and the cable sleeve is seated completely. I'd check both the metal that goes into the trailing arm and the other end that mates to the tunnel.

Good luck.

Rick

jbripps · jbripps's Garage

Hi again,

Thanks Rick, I'll check that out when I get home. I compared the old and new axles, and they looked to be the same size. Any other suggestions appreciated.

thanks again, and regards,

304065 · 06-25-2004, 06:33 AM

Jon,

The bolts are contacting the banana arm. Making sure the wheel turns requires:

The 85 uses M8 x50, right? Where did you get yours, what length are they?

On the early cars there's a schnorr washer and a hardened steel moon-shaped plate under the bolt head to space it out. I think the '84 and on didn't have those, though.

jbripps · jbripps's Garage

Hi John,

I have an early '85, and the 100mm lobro. There are 6 bolts to hold each side. Not sure what m8 x 50 is, are those the bolts? No washers on my setup. I am using the bolts that were on the axle I removed. Should I cut them down? If so, to what length, if you know.

Can't thank you guys enough for the help. The DIY thing has been very fun for me, but these small issues make it a pain sometimes, ha.

regards,

Early_S_Man · 06-25-2004, 07:02 AM

Jon,

The E-brake cable and mechanism isn't connected to the caliper in ANY WAY!!! If caliper is sticking, then you have an issue with rubber brake hose or caliper itself!

This sounds like a coincidence ... not related to axle replacement.

jbripps · jbripps's Garage

Maybe I'll take my brake pad spreader to take the pads off of the disc and then see what happens once I apply the brakes. If it doesn't budge when I try to spread, then I'll loosen the bolts to see if that is the culprit.

regards,

jbripps · jbripps's Garage

Hi guys,

Rick and Cramer were on the money!! Got home and loosened all of the bolts, and just like magic, the disc was spinning again. The brake pad looks the same, I guess they are always appearing to sit tight against the disc.

Anyhow, thanks fellas. One last issue, how much should I cut off the bolts!! Can't really risk cutting too much. Anyone know what the shorter size is to be? Do I measure from end to end of the bolt, or from the bottom of the head?

thanks all,

mwildt · 06-25-2004, 05:18 PM

Hi,

Regarding bolt length. I'd compare the old axle with the new and see if the thickness of the cv joint is thicker and then by how much. In any case you should have used new bolts when changing axles they do strecht when torqed.

Michael

mwildt · 06-25-2004, 05:20 PM

Ohh, forgot to add that you should put a nut on the bolt first, put it pass the place you want to cut. Cut the bolt then back off the nut so the thread wont become damaged. Or use a die to clean the thread. You may even be able to get the correct bolts so you don't have to cut them.

Michael

Zeke · 06-25-2004, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by mwildt
Ohh, forgot to add that you should put a nut on the bolt first, put it pass the place you want to cut. Cut the bolt then back off the nut so the thread wont become damaged. Or use a die to clean the thread. You may even be able to get the correct bolts so you don't have to cut them.

Michael

I've done that 100's of times. But, you still need to dress up any bolt you have cut with a HS on the grinder putting a little chamfer around the end of the threads before spinning the nut off. Otherwise, it's a bear to get the cut-off bolt to start straight.

Get new correct bolts, especially since you are headed out to the track.

gsxrken · gsxrken's Garage

I've got brand new axles with the CV joints already installed, new bolts, washers, and gaskets from our host. This may be a little embarrasing, but where do the gaskets go? My old axles didn't have any gaskets on the outside ends of the axles on either the tranny or control arm sides???

gsxrken · gsxrken's Garage

Ditch the last post. I just browsed through several pages of SEARCH results and found a treatment of the topic. The gaskets do go on the outside-most surface of the axle; the PO must have deleted them at some point. Wayne, you book is not clear on this point.