HELP! can't remove early cross-member
 

Add this thread to the other desparate pleas of the weekend warriors...

I am trying to drop my front suspension as a unit and can't seem to free the cross-member. I have removed every imaginable bolt (I think) in the front suspension. The cross-member almost feels as if it's welded to the body. Here's what I've done (this is a '72):

-removed shocks from towers
-removed m/c and front hard and flexible brake lines
-removed 2 steering rack bolts from cross-member
-removed inner tie rods from rack
-removed front A-arm bolts (3 bolts each side)
-removed 2 cross-member bolts at each end
-removed 2 cross-member bolts from the "straps" that extend rearward

What am I missing here?! Do I just need to whale on each end of the cross-member with a big a$$ hammer to free this thing?

You may have removed too much. Remove the steering column clamp from inside the trunk. That wasn't on your list.

You should be able to remove the entire front end by removing the above clamp, the torsion bar support bolts from both ends and the nut at the top of each strut (don't forget to remove the brake lines or remove calipers from the struts). Tie rods are part of the front end assy. I don't remember about the master cylinder. I think that stays.

Sherwood
PS: Oh, and sway bar drop links too.

On the outside- it's sways, ball joints, and tie rod ends.

Inside- it's the the front bushings, the two steering rack-to-cross member bolts hidden up there, and the rear extented bracket pieces.

That should be all that's necessary and I think will keep the same alignment provided the ride height is the same.
(edit: oops, that's on an early car)

Re: HELP! can't remove early cross-member
 

Yes.

Seriously, get a rubber mallet and whack it a few times. I always have to hit mine with a hammer to get it free once its been unbolted. Just make sure that your steering column is unbolted so that it doesnt get pulled down onto your master cylinder when the cross member lets go of the pickup points on the tub.

SUCCESS!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1090073651.jpg

Forgot to include on the list drop links, which I had already removed.

911pcars, I removed the steering rack from the cross-member instead of undoing the clamp so I wouldn't have to guide the entire, extremely heavy assembly out of the clamp. M/C on an early car has to be removed if you want to drop the cross-member straight down or it will hit unless you guide it forward slightly.

Shuie, that's all the encouragement I needed. I went out to the garage this morning and placed a scrap 2x4 at each end of the cross-member. Hit the 2x4 with 3 or 4 firm, sharp blows and the cross-member came loose.

As Grady had warned me in an early thread yesterday, the front end did come up slightly because there is NO weight from the transmission forward (the car has already been entirely stripped except rear suspension and engine/trans). So far, the suspension pick-ups look good...we'll see what the acid dip reveals in a few months...

Thanks, all!

Urk! Acid dip??

Read the prior posts in your search for acid dip - you'll probably avoid doing that.

Read all the post from the last several years on it and researched it some on my own. Acid dip is the only way to go. Make sure the neutralization is done properly and take your time in your prep and there should be no problem. Just like anything, if it's not done properly someone's going to have a horror story. Not doing it with an early car that has rust is what's asking for trouble if you ask me.