most desirable longhood??

[Porschekid962]

so I finally have a the opportunity to buy a 911. Just wondering which longhood year would lend itself to being a track car/daily driver. Im looking for ultra lieghtweight but the coolness factor is also a point haha.

How do I setup a poll??? I want to get results for:
69
70
71
72
73

Thanks all

[geof33]

That's easy...

73 RS or 73 RSR... You asked

[Porschekid962]

hahaha, what then is the best base 911 to start out with for a RSR convesrsion? Hardtop non sunroof of course. I have a line on a 72 "4 door". Isnt 69 the lightest of the longhood chassis though?

[geof33]

Well my RSR project began as an 82 sunroofless coupe... When it's all said and done I expect it to come in around 2000 pounds. Lighter if I'm lucky. with a price tag of around 20,000- most of which will be in the initial purchase and he motor I'm building. Most of the body work I will do myself as well as paint. I'd be spending more in the neighborhood of 25-30,000 if I were having it all done by someone.

The trouble with an early chassis is rust. Most have it. If they don't you will pay a premium for them. If you are looking for a project, go newer and backdate. It's pretty easy and you can wind up with a great car. A mid 80's 3.2 would be a great place to start for several reasons. I picked mine for the $$$ and the fact it had no sunroof. That's a fairly rare find for 80's coupes.

The good thing about the 84+ cars is both the galvanized bodies and the 3.2 motronic motor. HP in a box. Plus, you can get into a decent one pretty cheap. However, no 911 is ever really "cheap" just might have less initial sticker shock.

On balance you would do better to find a good project car already done, or well on it's way... It really depends on budget and willingness to DIY if your $$$ are limited.

[Aussie]

73 RS or 73 RSR... You asked

I assumed he was talking about run of the mill models.

I like the 70-71 as it still has the silver grille and the funky 2.2 decal. As well as the durant mirrors.

[Porschekid962]

Well I want a smog exempt car to start with, most of the bodywork will be done by me with lots of help and $$$ going to KevinP73, engine will come out of my dads car and built to my specs at my leisure hopefully. So I really just want a longhood, smog eempt hardtop to start with. So of the 69-73 cars, what is the most desirable?

[geof33]

On balance... any year that doesn't have rust. 73 probably the most overall. I think in 70 or 71 they used an odd suspension system that is problematic and the older tranny mounts can't be replaced. You would be stuck using a 901 tranny unless you did some mods... ease of conversion etc... 72-73...

[Porschekid962]

I have other parts and pluns for suspension coming in soon anyway so Im just wondering if the 69 has a huge advantage over a 72 in weight savings. Engine and trans will be a bit "new" either way.

[rlh930]

Geoff doesn't have to suffer the draconian California smog inspection laws and how they all but prevent hot-rodding post-75 cars. On the other hand, finding a clean, rust-free longhood for a reasonable price is not that easy even here in CA - it took me a few months.

I would go with a 72/73 mainly because of the 915 transmission. The Durant mirror on the pre-72's is cool but the small rectangular one on the 72/73 is also different enough from the newer ones that I find it appealing.The 72 has the smallest oil tank of any year, and you would need to make sure the oil filler door doesn't get in the way of the flares you plan to add.

[Porschekid962]

I am not too worried about trans because I will be building one along with my motor. Same with mirrors, I started a post about homemade aero fg mirrors. I think the 72 is pretty unique for the fact it has the oil filler door. Really though, which is the lightest longhood chassis? I have heard its the 69.

[Hoffman912]

for me is a 67 soft window targa S. (you left out the swb cars)

[Aussie]

Really though, which is the lightest longhood chassis?

If your just talking chassis, no interior or engine etc, I would have thought 69-73 coupes would all be much the same, and pre 69 a bit lighter being SWB.

[Porschekid962]

hoffman the 67 soft window targa is a dream car. just get in, drive and enjoy it. ive been helping a friend, actually the mechanic bought his car from fix up his TWO soft windows!! They have been pretty fun to work on. Stipped all the paint, repaired rust and dents, now they are both ready for paint. Cant wait to take it out for a sping. He has been teaching me how to rebuild the MFI engine along the way as well so I am getting a nice little pcar education along the way.

i talked to aase motors a while ago and they told me the lwb cars are much more desired for tracking over the swb cars. I remember him saying that the 69 was the lightest chassis as well, not sure though.

[Hoffman912]

are you talking about a blue swt... cant remember the guys name who owns it now, but hes friends with jack staggs.. the same car?

if so its a great car

[oldE]

Paul Frere advises in "Porsche 911 Story" : "All models up to 1975, except Carrera RS and Turbo 1,050 - 1,100 kg." I suspect creature comforts, ie: air conditioning, sunroof and leather, would make a bigger difference than anything else from 69 - 73. Don't get fixated on one year, especially if you are going to modify it.
Les

[geof33]

Another thing you seemed to miss... You mentioned rebuilding a trans... Great, but pre 72 you have to use a 901 trans. Not too desirable in a track car. The trans mounts are significantly different. You can do a 915 in earlier cars, but they need some significant mods.

The suspension stuff I mentioned was a strut system that I understand is difficult to convert. I could be wrong on that. I just recall a thread awhile back.

With regard to tub, they are the same from 69-73. So little, to no, wieght difference.

Still the single most important thing you should consider is rust, rust, rust. It can be a major nightmare with these early cars... which means $$$$$.

If you want real squirt and quirky, fun steering go into a pre 69 SWB... A TAD lighter, but again you are stuck with a 901 most likely.

[jpnovak]

OK let's clear up some confusion.

the 70/71 cars have no suspension weirdness. They have the same exact suspension geometry and parts as the other early tubs.

Likewise you are not limited to a 901 tranny. A 915 is a bolt in after 5 min of modification to the tunnel with a hammer. You have to clearance the top most mounting ear for the nose cone. You also need the correct CVs that mount to the output shafts on the tranny and the shift rod and shifter housing.

Essentially all the LWB early cars will weigh the same for a bare tub, unless you find one made with thinner metal. This is highly doubtfull since they were used as factory racers.

[Lukesportsman]

I'd go with a later one for ease.....72's fourth door prevents easy use of FG quarters if opting for flares. You'd have to work or pay extra to incorporate the 4th door into a premade quarter. I'd look at a 73 for ease and the weight can't be much after stripping and changing from a 69-73. 72 oil configuration is going to cost more, be more challenging or more effort to modify than other years. Yes, there are solutions and Elephant can get you running, it just doesn't fall in the norm.

Could you back date a 74? You'd get a light tub, later transmission mounts, CHEAP starting point and after you add all the FG and CF panels is there really an advantage of using a early tub for racing unless vintage? Advantages continue in that you could get a great copy for few bucks and won't have to chop up a desirable longhood to race. I think it would still make the 75 cut off year on smog, correct?

Just want'ed to offer a different view. You automatically get the bigger "s" strut spacing correct? One less thing to alter and not have to update.

Buy a 74, chop it up and NO one will complain!

[jpnovak]

Lets look at pros and cons of each model. Assume that each will allow you to bolt in whichever engine or tranny you want. All will have an equal potential for rust. Check carefully.

69
- different wiring can be difficult to tie into. Ususallly this requires custom wiring harness to mate a late 14 pin connector to the multi 6 pin connectors. CDI ignitions only on E/S MFI Cars.

69-71
- pay attention to the oil system. the tank is different than later tanks. Use an early engine oil cooler or cut the tub and install a later oil tank.

70/71 -
+ first year of different engine wiring. start of the 14 pin connector std through later cars.
+ first years where MFI and CDI wiring included on all cars.

72
oil system may be more difficult to tie into. Make sure you have all the parts to start with.

[widebody911]

'72 - the external oil fil and forward tank is cool. My first 911 was a '72