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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Boulder Colorado
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....I think its time to throw my arms skyward...

...the 3.0 with CIS is in the '73...all (well most) of the electrics are figured out ..fuel system checked...injectors all work...new seals and sleeves and it runs. Doesn't belch smoke as much any more, but it doesn't want to rev over 1000rpm. After a minute or so of running, it smooths out and starts to run normally...rpms go up nicely and then they come back down...and it trys to stall... restarts become increasingly less successful, until it appears to be flooded and won't restart. I have checked all the plugs...cleaned and gapped them...checked the coil. I think I have demons in the CIS. Only thing I haven't done is to try and back the fuel mixture screw off...everyone says to be careful as it is sooo sensitive. Should I load this up and take it to a mechanic to dial-in the CIS...I feel like I've run out of options. The car looks awesome, but runs awful

Old 07-16-2004, 05:44 AM
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Designer King
 
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Try turning the mixture counterclockwise in 1/16 turn increments and see what happens.

You may also have to adjust the idle speed as you do this.
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Old 07-16-2004, 07:36 AM
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nice doggie
 
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The car will do crazy things if your WUR is not working correctly. I'm not sure what you can do to troubleshoot that.
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Jerry

78 SC hotrod
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Old 07-16-2004, 07:42 AM
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I would rather be driving
 
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Congrats on getting it running.
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Old 07-16-2004, 07:51 AM
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i think hetmann is onto something.

my car ran just as you described. it would idle sweet, i would rev it up, and on the way down, it would just keep on going down, to a stall. then everytime i cranked it up, it would take more effort until no more. and when it did start it ran like it was missing. turns out my WUR was bad. i found this out when i hooked up the gauges. my system pressures were off, and the at rest pressure dropped to zero. just my two cents.
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poof! gone
Old 07-16-2004, 08:05 AM
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...is it worth trying to just replace the WUR? Are they interchangeable over the years, or will any SC WUR bolt up....and do I look for a used one, or new...and of course $?
Old 07-16-2004, 09:18 AM
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Just wake sure car is all warmed up before you adjust anything otherwise the car will warm up and change everything.

David
Old 07-16-2004, 11:02 AM
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Just subscribing so I can watch the thread.
I'd also like to re-affirm that "The car looks awesome". I saw it last weekend and was very impressed.

Pat
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Old 07-16-2004, 11:35 AM
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nice doggie
 
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The WUR is electromechanical and pricey. I think you need to get the right one for your engine/year. Some people have converted theirs to be adjustable. Do a search. Mine went bad all of the sudden. One day worked ok. Next day dead.
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Old 07-16-2004, 11:39 AM
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I was looking at the CIS primer diagram and got to thinking about the "thermal valve" that connects to the WUR...which if it fails doesn't allow the WUR to go to "lean"...I wonder if the hoses are incorrectly connected, if it would act like a failed valve and cause the same symptom...I'm going to check it. I also remember that the WUR has a line coming to it from the throttle housing and where it connects to the WUR had a small internal restictor. I'm going to pull the line and make sure the restrictor isn't clogged. It seems at this point that most indications suggest that the WUR is my culprit.

Pat, thanks a ton for coming up to help Saturday....and appreciate the compliments. I would post a couple pics but "Big Bro" has me restricted. The injectors that we taped and put back in came out easily....the two sleeves that didn't come out with the injectors were a real PITA to get out.
Old 07-16-2004, 01:19 PM
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speedo, i know some people that take the WUR apart just so they can flip the diaphram over. i guess this gives them a fresh edge and a better seal. keep in mind that once to take it apart, you will need to hook up the gauges to check and adjust your cold control pressure. you will also need to run the other three test to see if you messed anything up. me personally, i took it out, and bought a new one. and even the new one, didnt meet spec with cold control pressure. after adjustment (via punching pin) the car ran so smooth! plus, you want to connect a meter to the connections at the WUR, i think from memory i remember that you need 18 to 22 ohms, to meet spec. (on my SC i see 12 and it still runs great.)

cliff
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poof! gone
Old 07-16-2004, 01:36 PM
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nice doggie
 
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I have my old WUR. If you want to get together and experiment I will offer it up. I would not know what to do with it if I did open it up. I kept it on the off chance I could resurrect it or at least learn something about its inner workings.
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78 SC hotrod
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Old 07-16-2004, 02:49 PM
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Speedo,
Any updates?

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Old 07-23-2004, 05:30 AM
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