heat backdate install direction

juanbenae · juanbenae's Garage

i have my parts for the heater back date in my hot little hands, and thanks to euro east for used parts in very good shape.

i have attached the exploded view of the engine tin part list. i have gotten 4,5,13,14,16,17,28 and 29 in the drawing below.

my request for guidance and instruction is the following-

1. the parts 13 & 14, it would appear they go just outside the intake valve covers? is there a shroud in place that has to be removed from a 78 sc for those two to be placed? are these two parts to help create a tighter seal, draft prevention if you will? they do go in the engine compartment and not under the motor above the heat exchangers?

parts 16 & 17, these replace the existing outlets from the exchangers? or do they mount to keep the existing outlets stationary?

lastly, what if any of these parts are installed from under the car?

any other hints before i get into this tomorrow?

toby

ps- kurt v if you get an email from a strange address this weekend it may be me as a d follow up to you generious offer for help on this project.

Rot 911 · 07-23-2004, 07:22 AM

Parts 13 & 14 replace the engine tin that is currently on your SC. There are 3 or 4 bolts that are located under the valve covers. Unfortunately there is also at least one bolt that connect that tin to the tin at the front of the engine, parts 11 and 12. These are often rusted. There is also one bolt that connects 13 & 14 to parts 16 & 17.

Regarding parts 16 & 17: these need to replace whatever is on your SC right now as these two pieces have the holes that the hoses from the exchangers pass through to the ducts on the fan housing.

Rot 911 · 07-23-2004, 07:26 AM

As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words. Here's a couple thousand:

juanbenae · juanbenae's Garage

kurt, thanks again for the instruction, and very nice looking motor. i will be running to the neighbors house to use his computer and recheck these pics. the color version blows away my b&w copies.

anyone else with helpful hints that may be useful do chime in.

emcon5 · emcon5's Garage

You shouldn't have to do anything to #13 or 14, you can use the ones that are on your engine. The stock #16 for an SC is solid, you need to replace it with one from an earlier car with a hole in it for the drivers side duct (looks like #17 in the diagram, may be the same part).

On an SC the heat for the drivers side exchanger passes through a tube that is part of the rear engine tin, #15 in the diagram. You will want to block this off, I hear a beer can and a hose clamp works well.

So of the pieces you have, you only need 4,5,16,28 and 29.

13, 14, and 17 are the same as what you already have on your car.

Tom

Rot 911 · 07-23-2004, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by emcon5
You shouldn't have to do anything to #13 or 14, you can use the ones that are on your engine.

13, 14, and 17 are the same as what you already have on your car.
Tom

Interesting. On a 3.2 parts 13 & 14 are a bit different than the stock parts on my '86.

juanbenae · juanbenae's Garage

tom thanks, where in the bay area do you live? i never did ask on that mines run.

emcon5 · emcon5's Garage

Fremont.

Tom

juanbenae · juanbenae's Garage

tom, you have an email

braddb_82SC · 07-23-2004, 08:11 PM

Toby,
Ignore my observation if the engine tin your '78 SC is different than my on '82.
Assuming they are the same, I don't know why you would want to repace part number 16. I was able to route the new duct to the existing hole:

The difficult part is "adjusting" the left side duct to fit behind the distributor, unless you were lucky enough to aquire the part from a turbo. I was not so lucky. Check out the riveted patches on the above photo.

You are welcome to check it out in person when you come over to pick up the ball joint socket.

-Brad

emcon5 · emcon5's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by braddb_82SC
Assuming they are the same, I don't know why you would want to repace part number 16. I was able to route the new duct to the existing hole:

If you have early style heat exchangers/SSIs, it is a straight shot down from the drivers side duct, through #16 to the heat exchanger, and he can use the tubing he already has. Using the stock duct as you did, it is a tight corner underneath. It can be done (I did it), but it is a PITA. If he has #16, it is easy to swap, just 4 screws. With the stock exchangers, your way may work better, you would have to look underneath and see if the angle is workable.

Quote:

The difficult part is "adjusting" the left side duct to fit behind the distributor, unless you were lucky enough to aquire the part from a turbo. I was not so lucky. Check out the riveted patches on the above photo.

I used a heat gun, $15 from Harbor freight.

Tom

juanbenae · juanbenae's Garage

great info from you guys again. did not need 13,14, 16,or 17 as discussed above. it was a bit hairball getting the left side shroud in, plumbed and fastened with the air pump and its plumping. some greative rerouting and trimming of the air pump 1" line was required but WELL worth it. it as you guys are aware cleans up the engine bay big time.

not sure i even needed part #4. the stock SC shroud (on my air pump equiped 78 anyway)"could" have been bushed down to accept the 2 1/2" heater tubing, might even be easier than making the shroud fit around the dizzy. althought some heat and a ballpeen hammer worked well,, did i mention it was hammer time?

got some extra parts that i mentioned above if anyone needs them for this project. oh yeah,, i also have a non-op'd heater fan if anyone needs that......

would HIGHLY recomment this project to any not on the concours circut...

special thanks to kurt, tom, and brad.

juanbenae · juanbenae's Garage

PS- brad it would appear a vaccum line is missing from your dizzy in that last shot....