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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 6
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Head stud repair
Hi all,
Great forum! Discovered a broken head stud in my 82 911SC during the PPI, made a deal with the owner based on the discovery and the car is mine. The car is great shape otherwise. I am debating to do the repair myself or turn over to the shop. Can any other readers share their experiences on this repair? I am new to Porsches, BMW motorbikes in the past! May possibly repair just the one stud, can the motor stay in the car during the replacment of the stud? Thanks
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Pete 82 911SC 77 R60 |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,431
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engine comes out and apart. do all the lowers. too much chance that another will break and you will have to do it again.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,019
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The engine needs to come out, and the top end torn down. As you're going in that far it would be crazy (IMO) to leave the other old studs in there. They're the same age & condition as the one that just broke!
Use steel headstuds (993?) not dilivar. They're something like $8 a piece. |
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Unregistered
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: a wretched hive of scum and villainy
Posts: 55,652
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I started that process last Friday. I bought 12 new 993 steel studs, I'll let you know how it goes.
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 6
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Good luck Sam,
Look forward to seeing your updates... Are you doing one side only or both exhaust sides...
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Pete 82 911SC 77 R60 |
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,955
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I may be making this up, but wasn't there a guy here who managed to get a broken stud out without taking anything apart? Somehow managed to get a grip on the broken stud with the engine in the car, and backed it out.
Then he simply screwed a new one in! I thought I remember reading that thread here a while back. Or maybe I'm thinking of something else. |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,431
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yes there was. he was a very patient fellow. as i recall, he managed to get a grip on the stud with mini visegrips probably, and managed to extract 1 3/4" of thread 1/16 turn at a time. his obviously was already loose enough to move. most are not, and require heat.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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JOT MON ABBR OTH
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 3,238
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JW is KING!!!
Plan on taking the motor out and replacing all the studs. Get the re-build book. If you are going to have the motor re-built, use a reputable shop.
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David '83 SC Targa (sold ![]() '15 F250 Gas (Her Baby) '95 993 (sold ![]() I don't take scalps. I'm civilized like white man now, I shoot man in back. |
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Unregistered
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: a wretched hive of scum and villainy
Posts: 55,652
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I remember that thread. In fact I even looked at mine to see if it was possible to remove my broken stud with the engine together. No joy, it simply would not work in my case. The head of the case through bolt was in the way and I could not get a grip on it. I tried the hammer and punch trick but gave up quickly.
I plan to replace all dilivar studs (12 lower) with steel. I can imagine few things worse than replacing some of the studs and then having one I didn't replace break. While I'm in there (uh oh, famous last words) I'm going to fix everything that needs fixing, even if it requires replacing everything. Anyone have a credit card or three I can borrow? ![]() |
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Got the engine rebuild and ue the search button to get the thread where Mark Wemple just did this. I helped it and some of those studs were a real *****. I would leave the intake studs. Just get those dilavar exhaust studs out.
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77 911, 3.0L |
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