Wurth Stoneguard SKS Not Drying
 

Would anyone know how I'm supposed to dry the Wurth Stoneguard SKS - air heaters, heat lamps, whatever?

I have painted the interior of my engine compartment, and the paint is still tacky after two weeks. Is the Florida humidity to blame?

What am I doing wrong? HELP!!!!

Was it old stock or not mixed enough?????

I've never had this problem and it should be dry to touch within an hour and cure in about a day. Perhaps a call to Wurth is in order.

Sad thing is if they tell you that you can get replacement product then you have to get the defective stuff off. Ugh.

WURTH USA Inc.
Distribution Center Northeast
93 Grant Street
US-Ramsey, New Jersey 07446
USA
+1 201 8252710
+1 201 8253706
info-northeast@wurthusa.com
http://www.wurthusa.com

When did you paint? Thrown_hammer had a similar problem when he painted his car when the humidity was high and he was painting in the late afternoon. Air temps dropped and water got trapped in a paint layer. Advice was to wet sand the top layer. Worked for him.

I've used it recently and found it takes days to dry. I'm in the Chicago area, and it's been humid, but not Florida humid. I sprayed a fender yesterday AM while the humidity was low. A day later the surface is still slightly tacky. Areas I sprayed a week ago are now dry and firm.

Thanks guys,

Actually I didn't spray, but brushed or "stippled" with the end of the brush. I didn't like the look, so I ordered the sprayer.

Will spray when the "gun" arrives, and try to do it at noon or early afternoon, thus avoiding trapping any moisture.

I will try to sandpaper off the top layer, but perhaps I'll let it sit in the hot sun (with a car covered, except for the engine compartment) to see if that helps.

Love the beige in the engine copartment of the brown exterior!!!!

I resurrected this thread because I am having a problem with Stoneguard and wanted to see if anyone had additional insight into this drying problem.

I've replaced my suspension pan and painted over the new sheet metal with metalready, POR-15, self-etching primer, and then Stoneguard. It took about a week to dry, but now seems ready to paint. For the gas tank, I just wire-brushed off the old undercoating where there was rust or a break in the coating and coated with the same items listed above except I sprayed Stoneguard over the entire tank including the existing undercoating that was still in good shape. It's the TANK that will not dry. It is still tacky after 2 weeks and doesn't seem to be getting any better. Granted, it could be the humidity - I do live in Mobile AL - but the tank has been sitting closed up in the garage the entire time where it gets to 95 degrees every day.

Any suggestions? Should I crank up the AC in garage to reduce the humidity? Should I use a hairdryer to help the cure rate? Should I just scrape all of it off and start over?

I don't know if this is entirely different but I had the same problem using 3M rubberized undercoating on the gas tank. Waited about a week to dry but still tacky. Wrong or not, I was going to paint the trunk anyways so I just painted over the tacky tank. A few days later, nice and dry. Months later now, no problems.

That's good to hear 74er. I've been tempted to do that as well. It's just that I figured that if the Stonegaurd is water-based, painting over it with acrylic enamel might create its own problems. I am not quite so worried after your experience.

An old thread I know but was wondering if after 4 years you ever had a problem with the tank - after painting over a tacky SKS?

I painted my tank with the appropriate grey Wurth paint that cost 100$ per quart , I think. It is still tacky after 2 years!!!

I am drawing to the conclusion that unless you strip back the surface of any previous coatings you run the risk of whatever is underneath reacting with the SKS and preventing it from hardening properly.

Must be a record.

My small area application last year took almost a week to dry in hot dry weather.

do not cover the part you painted with any thing, in humid weather it will make rust under the rock gaurd you need to let it breathe and you might need to turn on the heat in moist air or let it bake in the sun for a full day and take it inside before it cools downas the dew will resoften the rockgaurd

I had the same problem. Seems like when I painted over the tacky stoneguard, it reacted with it an cured it.

I recently did my front valence. The bottle of Stoneguard I used was 3+ years old.

Stripped valence to bare metal.
Sprayed with PPG DPLF epoxy primer using 3M Accuspray gun w/1.8mm tip
Sprayed with Stoneguard SKS using Wurth spray gun
Sprayed again with DPLF
Top coated with PPG DCC color

No issues.