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project '72 part 7. pics
Well, once again Ive had a FEW moments to work on the project. I just about got the complete front end finished with monoballs, 23.5mm T-Bars, Bilsteins with Smart Racing Valving, turbo tie rod ends, rack spacers, Bremtek brakes with the 23mm M/C, Tarrett 22mm sway bar, brake difuser plates, aluminum cross member, and duct backing plates, and Rennline floor boards and pedals. I also got the front and rear glass popped back in. Still a few issues yet to resolve, like brake line routing, (Im installing a Tilton porportioning valve) and still looking for the tiny little plastic fill port piece for the front of the M/C so it will clear the steering rack.
Hope to have that all done by the weekend, and start on the rear.. Heres a couple of pics. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1091133213.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1091133229.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1091133262.jpg |
Sweet!!
Are you planning on mounting the proportioning valve right next to the M/C. If so, are you going to be able to adj. it fairly easily? Reason I ask is that I am thinking of installing one as well and thought to mount it towards the rear line junction. So I can reach under there and turn it if need be. It would be ideal to have mounted onto the tunnel somewhere but the tunnel brake line is nothing I want to mess with (already replaced that once). Im interested in others' opinions on where the best/most convienient location is. |
The best place for the valve is where you can reach it easily, preferrably inside the car! I saw someone here posted a picture of one mounted to the M/C, but how can you adjust that during a D/E or such? I have seen some mounted inside the smugglers box, which is a great place to get to, but I am mounting mine in the tunnel right in front of the shifter.
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1091218418.jpg |
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Where would I get one of these? Would I then just get 2 lengths of line from the auto store, bend slightly and connect it up? |
Shaun, you won't want that. It's only used by pros on a light weight Rally car, they need to change bias for their acrobatics.
On a pro driven racecar maybe, but you still need to start w/ good basic bias. On your car you will have good basic bias from the get go. If you insist Porsche Motorsports is the only source that I know of. |
Thanks Bill, got it.
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Wilwood offers an adjusteable brake bias valve with a knurled knob. Nice piece, FWIW:)
Chris |
They all have the Knurled knob or a twist lever, that one works a tad differently.;)
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Geez, thats a piece of art!!
Heres mine installed. The original brake tube is 66" long. I cut it at the 14" point, flared both ends, and installed the valve in the middle in the tunnel. The last one is a pic of the RS door panels. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1091243813.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1091243823.jpg |
Nice job Marc, is that a Tilton?
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Is that cage really just bolted to the floor?! and with such a small surface area? Is that safe?
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yes its a Tilton.
Cage bolts?... uh, 90% of cages are bolted in. There is a 5x7" x 1/4" steel plate on the underneath side. |
Wilwood:
KNOB STYLE PROPORTIONING VALVE: P# 260-8419 http://www.wilwood.org/ds488.pdf http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1091302348.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1091302376.gif LEVER STYLE PROPORTIONING VALVES: P# 260-8420 http://www.wilwood.org/ds489.pdf http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1091302469.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1091302484.gif |
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