key won't turn - mech or elec?
 

The ignition key won't turn in my 79 SC. Sometimes if I try it 30 or 40 times, it will work. Is this more likely a problem with the electrical or mechanical portion of the ignition switch.

I'm new to this forum, so be gentle

Probably the steering wheel lock. Is it easier if you jiggle the wheel when you try to turn the key? If not, then maybe the key is worn. Hope you're not using it as a getaway car when you knock over a QuickieMart.

An excellent thread on this very problem. Colin's suggestion is in there as well.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=161984&highlight=key+an d+ignition

BTW, welcome to the board and don't be afraid to us the Search function. There's tones of great info.

I tried wiggling the wheel, holding the wheel against the stops in both directions, pushing the key in, pulling it out a little... Seems to be more related to how I hold my tongue (or inversly proportional to my patience) I got a locksmith to spray some lubricant, but it remains intemittent at best

I've taken to leaving the key in the on position and disconnecting the battery cable. I think the car is still there!

The thread linked above mentiones getting a new key cut based on the VIN. This sounds like my next move. I'm still using the original key after 160k miles, and it looks pretty worn

the steering lock portion of the switch assembly is bad. it's not available as a separate part. time to replace the unit. kind of pricey, and comes with a new key.

i had the exact same problem.

its definitely the mechanical portion of the steering lock. according to my mechanic, the phillips screwdriver like tip that goes into the electrical portion switch wears out over time... i just had the same problem, thought it was an electrical switch problem, but it wasn't.

Now I have 2 electrical switches and ordered the mechanical portion from our friends here @ pelican for 290.

the unit comes with the electrical switch, key and tumblers.

I have a simular problemo. At first it was very intermittant. Much more frequent now. With mine, it will not turn fully. It will go to the ACC position but not the last bit that is used to activate the starter. A bit of lubricant has helped a bit. But, I am afraid that I am heading toward the $290.00 dollar fix. I am not looking forward to having 2 seperate keys. :(

This type of a problem is consistent with a bent wafer in the lock cylinder. To be sure where the problem lies, when this problem happens, remove the plug and electical switch off the back of the ignition housing, if the key now turns freely the problem is the electrical switch.

Try an oil shot if you're near replacing anyway
 

Try a few drops of oil, deep in the key hole, via the thin tube that comes with 3 in 1 -- has helped me get by. Once I get the tumbler free, I follow with bicycle cable oil (thicker than 3 in 1) on the key. My ign switch takes this lube shot trick about once every two years to avoid problems.

No expert, but I thought I've read that removing a battery cable with the car running can overload (take out) your alternator diodes.

Thanks Safecracker...I will give that a shot...Much rather spend $60 some dollars versus almost $300

Grant....I just used some wd-40. I'll also try the 3 in 1 and bicycle cable oil. Thanks!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/84472-how-fix-sticky-ignition.html?highlight=key

This help?

What's it made out of? Any way to resurface this?

I silver soldered my ring and then redrilled the hole. A tricky little operation but it worked like new when done.

If it's pot metal there are also inexpensive alloy rods for heated repairs.

It's just a thin ring, about 1 mm thick, plated brass I think.