Cam oil line, AC bracket and fuel rail - Help

[GeorgeW]

I am in the process of replacing the cam oil lines and have removed the ac bracket on my 86 Carrera by loosening the fuel rail on that side and finally forcing the bracket out using a large screw driver to clear the bolts used to hold it.

To get to one of the 10 mm nuts holding the forward pointing leg of the braket, I had to 'move' the fuel rail. This required disconnecting both ends of the fuel line going under the rail and popping the fuel injector/inserts loose.

The bracket was also attached by what looks like a custom modification. There is a metal strip bolted to the engine at the bottom, right behind the oil pressure sending unit, and extending 5 or 6 inches to reach the top of the ac bracket where it was attache with a nutl.

Is this original stuff or add on support for the bracket?

I think I need to leave it although it may interfere with replacing the oil pres sending unit.

I am also not sure about what I have started with loosening the fuel rail. I think I need to be carefull to not have gunk fall in the little ports for the injectors. The rubber like tips of the injectors look dirty and I want to clean them.

Reinstall of the AC bracket looks like it is going to be a big PITA

Once the cam lines are replaced I want to test for leaks but dont want to deal with the rail and bracket again. Is there a way around this ?

Any comments, advice would be helpfull,

Thanks

[john walker's workshop]

take the muffler off, or you won't get the bracket off. there are 2 bolts behind the muffler, and no room to get to them with the muffler in the way. the forward leg is generally left alone. there is an allen bolt accessed thru a hole in the front of the main bracket. the side brace is stock, just take off the top bolt.

[mfbarnes]

Hey George:

Did this same job on my 86 a short time ago.....see my post:

repair guide: cam tensioner oil lines

Yes, you do have to loosen the injectors on the right side to get to the top of the AC bracket, but there is no need to break the fuel line connections because you only need to move the injector rail a little to get to the 10mm nuts. For the AC bracket: go ahead and loosen the tinware on the rear on the engine. That will give you all the clearance you need without struggling. When you buttoning everything up, before you replace the air flow meter and air filter box (which I assumed you have already removed to get to things), double check the same vacuum lines underneath to make sure they are inserted.

This is also a good time to check the torque on the intake allen cap screws.

MFB

[GeorgeW]

Thanks guys.

JW - Muffler is off. Will check for the hole in the main ac bracket. Want to reattach the forward leg, then rail so I can clean the area.

MFB - have been following your thread all along - very helpfull. Looked for the tinware nuts but couldt tell which held what pieces. How many hold the rear tinware? Is it a one piece or are there left and rights?

[john walker's workshop]

the tinware nuts stay put. just pull the bracket upward to remove it. no sense doing any more work than necessary.

[GeorgeW]

Ok, great. All is done and back together. It took much longer than I thought it would. I took my time and nothing was destroyed in the process. Oh, what fun it is to drive it again.

JW and MFB thanks again for your help. This site is truely amazing.

Mounted the ac bracket but left compressor off as next project is ac system overhaul. Followed dizzy removal threads (JW) and had no trouble there.

Will keep checking the cam line unions to see if any sign of sepage. So far all looks good. Replacement of oil pres sender unit fixed erratic readings. Great to see it working correctly for the first time.

[mfbarnes]

Good job, George!

Fun, ain't it?