clutch that won't dissengage: part 2 engine pulled
 

Ok, so I gave up on adjusting clutch cable and checking pedal movement,bushings, etc.

I dropped my first 911 engine. Interesting, my car used to have AC plumbed.... hoses tucked in behind engine. Next, CV joints weren't torqued at all. Then I found some interesting wiring in the bay and loose sway bar bolts. This all just sucks since I paid a fellow pelican member to install this engine.

Well, to the problem: Pulled engine an transmission together so that more care and caution could be taken. Carefully seperated the engine/trans. heard nothing separate, but at first was disappointed to see the fork was still very nice. Then I noticed that the throwout bearing was with the tranny and not the pressure plate.

Has anyone else had the TO bearing come off? This would have prevented me from disengaging the clutch right? I surely wouldn't have pulled it off when separating? The serated spring was on the flywheel side with the cir-clip. Isn't that wrong? There was a thick ring with I would guess a cir-clip relief but it was on the transmission side of the pressure plate.

Sorry this is long, but I'm new at this and it was apart when I got in there. I just want the clutch to work again. TIA and thanks for the replies on part 1.

Photos can be provided if needed.

the thick ring and the snap ring should be inside the p/plate, so it was not assembled properly.
first on the t/o bearing goes the thin steel washer, then the serrated piece with it's cup facing away from the bearing, then the p/plate is set onto the bearing. next the thick ring, inner groove towards you, then the snap-ring.

It just surprises me that seeing this, that it actually made it a couple hundred miles before failure.

Sad, considering it was put together by a shop on the other side of the country that has a reasonable reputation on this board.

It is a 915/61 trans. I think that makes it a 76' so is that what I buy a throw out bearing for? Should I buy a matching 76' clutch cable to replace my imperfect fitting 72 cable? Do all these plates and retainers come with a new TOB?

Well, I'm happy, even if you're not, that you pulled the motor and found these things like the CV bolts before you had a real probelm.

A major hassle, but you might think of what could have been while you're toiling away. When you get done, you will have satisfaction beyond your dreams. Good job.

This is the main reason I do my own work. I may not be perfect, but I double check all my work especially if it could affect safety.

On a side note, the other day I did something stupid, I don't even remember what it was but it made me mad that I do stupid things sometimes like breaking something taking it off or something like that. After I cooled off I thought, the reason most other people don't break stuff is because that don't do stuff. The law of averages catches up with people that get stuff done faster than with people that don't. So if you want to do work yourself, you're going to make a mistake that costs you money at some point. As long as it doesn't happen too often, I think it's a small price to pay.

Really, no one has an answer on the parts list.....WAYNE? Do I purchase parts like TOB and cable according to the 915/61 numbers?

according to year of the car, if it still has the stock running gear.

The drivetrain is not stock or correct year which is my reason for asking. Thanks for your responses in this issue.

72 T with 2.4 punched out with 915/61 aluminum 915. I think that makes it a 75-76? No helper horse shoe spring if that helps.

the t/o bearing is the same for all the 915s. 72-74 used the long straight release arm, 75 had the cable bend 90° around the end, and the rest used the long and short arms with over-center spring. so you would order the cable for whatever release arm you have.