Rear Bearing/Hub Help

[North Coast Cab]

You may know I publised a threadoutlining the removal of the rear wheel bearing. Anyway, I am in the process of installing the new one and I'm having some difficulty. The replacement bearing went in fairly easily. I reinstalled the e-brake ring and bearing plate as needed. I lightly pushed the hub in and used the threaded rod tool backwards to pull it into place. I then inserted the stub axle and castle nut. When I put a decent amount of torque, not the full 200+, the hub got tighter and stopped moving all together. I can not turn the hub by hand. I haven't put the caliper or rotor on yet so I know the brakes are not hanging up.

Is this normal and will it settle once everything is installed and driven? Or is something wrong?

John

[Zeke]

That is not normal. I wish I knew what happened there. I only posted this right away so you won't continue to experiment with tighening. You may ruin the bearing.

Now, we'll wait for some 'accurate' advice.

[kepperly]

when replacing the bearing did you pull the bearing in with force only on the exterior diminsion of the bearing or did you use the inner race as the pressure point?

keith 87 slant nose turbo look carrera cabriolet

[Zeke]

I saw his made up tool. I think he pulled the bearing in Ok using the outer race. Look at the diagram:



When you tighen the nut on the stub axle (13) to the hub (11) with the bearing (7) in between, the only thing that can interfer that I remember is the the bolt for the retainer ring (8). Is the bearing completely seated and the retainer ring down tight?

[Zeke]

I think I figured it out. "I lightly pushed the hub in and used the threaded rod tool backwards to pull it into place." At that point, you have to support the outer and inner race or the bearing can come apart. Ask me how I know.

This is why when you pop the hub out , it most likely requires a new bearing when being reassembled. There is no way to support the inner race when removing the hub.

[TurboRuf]

By chance did you use the old Crush Sleeve? I did this project about two years ago and had to purchase a new Crush Sleeve. The previous owner applied to much torque to the castle nut.

See item 7/3 in Zeke's image above.

[john walker's workshop]

the crush sleeve is only for turbos.
tightening the outer nut just pulls the inner races together like they should be. you did remove the piece of the old inner race from the hub before you pulled it into the new bearing, right? one section of the inner race comes out with the hub 95% of the time. you haven't mentioned the procedure you used to remove it.

[Zeke]

Originally posted by john walker's workshop
the crush sleeve is only for turbos.
tightening the outer nut just pulls the inner races together like they should be. you did remove the piece of the old inner race from the hub before you pulled it into the new bearing, right? one section of the inner race comes out with the hub 95% of the time. you haven't mentioned the procedure you used to remove it.

And by not having removed the inner race, that would bring the CV flange in contact with the trailing arm? Is that his problem? Well, I know he has to make sure the remnant is removed, but if you mistakenly assembled the stub axle and hub with the extra piece in there, it would pull the sub axle in too far? And does that ruin the bearing? Thanks, JW.

[North Coast Cab]

The outer portion of the inner race was attached to the hub when I removed it. I removed the old inner race from the hub. The rest of the bearing came out in one piece including the inner portion of the inner race. I used the heat and freeze methid and the new bearing went in pretty easily. I pushed the hub on a little bit and then reversed the tool to pull the hub all the way in. Once it the hub flopped around a little as everyone described and turned easily in the bearing. When I put the stub axle in and started to tighten the castle nut it straightened the hub and moved very smoothly. It is only when I start to put major torque that the hub tightened up.

John

[North Coast Cab]

I just pulled the cv and axle off and slid out the stub axle. It appears that the inner 1/2 of the inner race slid out when the hub was pulled in. Can I push this back in somehow?

EDIT: No, but I was able to pull the bearing 1/2 way out, remove inner sealing ring, pull ball bearing sleeve, inspect everything and re-seat the race. I carefully removed the outside inner race from the hub and did the same thing. It appears I didn't have the threaded rod assembly set-up properly to pull the hub in. You need to use the 3" disc to support the inside of the entire bearing when you pull the hub on or the race can pop out. I had the threded rod assembly installed backwards.

John

[Zeke]

OK, I nailed it (or, rather, JW nailed it). Sorry I didn't remember from the get go. But, I did the same thing a couple years ago.

Now, at the time, people said that the bearing probably needed to be replaced after coming apart. I think mainly because once the seal dislodges, it may not be reliable to stay in place. I put it back together anyway and ran that bearing. To be sure, I rotated the bearing and felt for damage to the races. I couldn't feel anything that wasn't smooth.

I tend to work on cars a lot and drive less. If this were a daily driver, I might have simply bought a new bearing for the reassembly. It's your call. Mine seemed OK.

[North Coast Cab]

Milt,
I inspected thoroughly and the seal was clean and square, the plastic cage wihich holds the ball bearings was in perfect shape as well. I added a little grease and reassembled. When I pressed the hub in this time the inner races stayed in place. I'm almost done reassembling and everything seems perfect so far.

John