83SC - AAR & AAV Question
 

Will the removel of the AAV & plugging all the lines have have an effect on the AAR?

Thanks ............................... Randy

From memory the AAV & AAR are fitted in parallel in the vacuum circuit. Plugging the lines into & exiting the AAV will have no effect on the operation of the AAR.

I removed my AAV and Decel Valve on my 83 and it runs fine.

Randy,

Have you tested your AAR yet?

Did the AAR check. The RPM's went to 2000 with the electrical disconnected. Very little decrease in RPM when the line was pinched.

Once warmed up and pinched the RPM's stayed at 2000.

Do those results sound correct?

Randy,

When cold, w/ engine running, and the elec disconnected, when you pinch the hose, the revs should drop. This means the valve would be open. If it isn't, then the AAR is stuck or bad.

When engine is running and warm, and the elec connected, pinching the hose should not change the idle speed. This means the valve is closed.

Sounds like your valve is stuck closed.

I'll do the check again and get back with the results.

I'm tempted to remove the AAV completely as I only drive the car in the warmer weather.

What do you think?

Randy

I have no AAR/AAV/Decel on my 930 3.0 engine and it runs just great. I have a hand throttle, though....

I think the car will be just fine without the AAV. Without the AAR you will get that popping and rough idle when starting from cold. Only you can determine how much of an inconvenience that is.

It seems that someone was thinking about installing a hand throttle on one of these later cars. Maybe someone can advise you on this, or you might find it in a search.

I think my AAR is not opening enough when cold, giving me a only a slightly raised idle. I am going to check the opened end next time it is cold, and see how far the valve has rotated. It should be open about half way when cold, then close off gradually.

Did the AAR test again with the same results. Basically no change in RPM when the line was pinched with the electrical disconnected. I think my AAR is kaput. I've always had a rough idle and popping when cold starting. Once the engine has run for a minute everything is fine. I already removed the AAV a few months ago and didn't notice any difference. Now I'll take the AAR out and see if I can fix it.

Thanks ................................... Randy

Randy, have you done an engine drop (or partial drop) to access the AAR/ AAV. Did you remove the airbox?

Also, let me know if you can fix that AAR.

Thanks.

Engine drop was not needed. I could reach the parts from the top without having to remove any components.

Randy

My AAR was reacting slow and not closing all the way. I did not try to take it apart but did sprayed it out with some carb cleaner and put some good teflon oil on the disk. It works good as ever now. It's a bigger problem if the heating element is broken.

My AAR was 1/4 open when I removed it this morning. I put it in the freezer for a half an hour and it opened to 3/4. I think what is happening is that once the engine warms the AAR is not closing completely. I'm sure a little cleaning and oiling would free it up.

I might leave it out and plug the lines. One less thing to go worry about. If I find the cold starting becoming an issue I can always put it back.