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ok guys here's one for you... I got the FAG bearings from our host. Put one in.. heated the arm and cooled the bearing... and put a bit of grease and it slid right in...

Then I noticed something.... the seal slides on the OUTSIDE race not the inside race. This is definately a different design from the SKF that came out. Maybe it is better but it is different. The "lip" that the bearing sits against in the back and the holding plate in the front will be very very very close to this now moving seal. What do people think..is the host selling the wrong model bearing for this application?

Old 05-09-2008, 07:40 PM
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now thinking about this more.... not a good application for the seal siding on the outside..any debris/dirt/etc. that accumulates will take out the bearing.. with the seal running on the inner race it stays clean

I think I need to call Pelican on Monday....anyone back me up or ?
Old 05-09-2008, 08:32 PM
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I got my FAG bearing in nicely today. Re-attached the e-brake with fresh pads. Attempted to start pulling the HUB in but I failed miserably. I'm using the bearing/hub extractor/installer purchasd from pelican. The force I excercised on the tool was so great that I caused damaged the large washer which was applying an opposing force on the inner race.

What am I doing wrong? Is pulling the HUB in more difficult than pulling or removing the bearing?

Does the bearing have sides to it? Did I insert it on the wrong side? Should this be a two man job where one man is holding the nut in the back of the arm while the other tightens on the hub side? I have no strength remaining at this point!

P.S. I didn't grease the HUB before attempting to pull it in the bearing. I simply used WD40. Could this be my big problem?
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Old 05-10-2008, 10:45 AM
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as far as I know the bearing has no sides to it.
others say and it seems the hub is less of a interference fit... but it is steel to steel.
when I was pulling mine in I made sure the rear was centered on the inner race and I would rotate the hub to see where the "high" spots were...then I would move my puller over just a bit to "pull" down the high spots and it began to slip in much easier... the key is to keep things pulling with the hub shaft parallel to the inner races.

I don't know how the PP puller is designed.. if you post some pictures of it I may have more comments. I made one that works great for $10-15.

Does your FAG bearing slip on the outer race? If yes, why are you not concerned about that?
Old 05-10-2008, 10:55 AM
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oh, I used crocus cloth to buff the hub shaft and put some grease on it... grease should help but the WD40 should have helped somewhat but not as much as real grease
Old 05-10-2008, 10:56 AM
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Like Henry said, hub goes in easier than the bearing does. You must have had it crooked in the bearing because the bearing is not "sided." It's symmetric and can therefore go in either side.

I used no lubricant when I installed the hubs (cooled in the freezer) and they went in quite easily with some threaed rod and big washers. I tried to make sure I didn't rotate the bearing as I pulled the hub in.
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Old 05-12-2008, 06:50 AM
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for those following along... I talked with Tony Silverio application engineer at FAG. Phone# 203 790 5474. He said that if the inner ring is the moving part then the seal should be slipping on the inner ring. There are some applications where the outside ring rotates where the other configuration may be indicated. Since this bearing FAG 527243CA (from PP) is a special FAG bearing (special for what reason is unknown) he is going to pull the print and see what other specs. are on this bearing and confirm the seal configuration. The print is not online to him, it's in a central file since it is special. I also call PP this morning and they said to email "bob@pelicanparts.com" regarding this and I did that.

re. pulling in the hub.. be sure to knockdown any burrs on the hub.. I noticed a scratch on my hub that last time I pounded it out. If I have to change the bearing too many more times I might wear out the hub ;-)

are we having fun yet?
Old 05-12-2008, 11:05 AM
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ok, Tony called back. The drawing shows a standard seal that should slip on the inner race. We discussed to check by holding the seal with a finger and see if I can get it to slip on the inner race. The next step is to take the seal out and check that there is a lip in the inner ring/etc. I got his email so I can send pictures. I'm still not too sure about this. An idea I just had is to rtv the seal to the outer ring to get it to start spinning on the inner ring. Maybe put a drop of oil out there just to get it going.
Old 05-12-2008, 11:17 AM
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I have seen this before.......Perhaps it's your dilemma. What usually happens is the inner races are two pieces and can move around until tightened. That pops the seal out of its register on the outside area since they are barely held in anyway. You can usually just put your thumbs on it and push it back in again.
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Old 05-12-2008, 01:43 PM
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Paul,
excellent point.. I'll check that the seals are locked into the outer ring...
I might also pop the outside one off and take a picture or confirm that proper lip travel is ready to ride on the inner ring... on the back I can't do much.. the bearing is already pressed in but I think I can still push a bit on the seal to be sure it locks into the outer ring.
Thanks for the comment/idea.
-Henry
Old 05-12-2008, 01:48 PM
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You can definitely work on the seal installation with the bearing installed- at least on the outboard side of the trailing arm. I dented one of my seals when tapping out a bearing that started crooked. If I had a brain, I would have saved some of the seals from the good bearing(s) that I destroyed............
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Old 05-12-2008, 01:54 PM
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Excellent discussion. I'm having a hard time getting a handle on this last part of the thread with the seal issue. It must be my graphically challenged brain.
Could you post some some pics that illustrate the problem a little clearer? TIA
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Old 05-13-2008, 07:40 AM
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I've been following this latest round of posts, and I guess I don't understand the difficulty people are having. I'm hardly a master mechanic, but I didn't have any problems at all using the parts I came up with. It is still a challenging project. I think the thing to keep in mind is that these are very precisely fitted parts and you have to exercise some finesse in assembling them.

The heating and cooling of the arm and the bearing are necessary. The bearing fits into the arm with near-zero clearance, and the arm is aluminum so if the bearing starts out-of-line, it's going to bite in pretty quickly and cut a groove. I found that if I heated and cooled the parts, then precisely (as possible) aligned the bearing and the tool parts, then pre-loaded the tool, then heated the hub more, the bearing would pop in a bit and align itself. Then repeat several times until it's seated in the arm.

The hub should be an easier fit into the bearing; if it's not then you have a burr or a groove somewhere, or some surface rust or extranious pieces of grit or something. If it's not going in easily, a quick swipe with some very fine sandpaper or emory cloth should make things work.
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Last edited by Wavey; 05-13-2008 at 08:05 AM.. Reason: typo
Old 05-13-2008, 08:03 AM
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re. pulling the bearing in/out or hub in/out - I'm not having any problems with all of that.


update -
I went out last night and this moring.. I pushed in on the seal in a number of ways trying to get the outside to lock/grab and the inside to slip.. nothing doing.
I took the other PP FAG out of the box but didn't break open the bag... that bearing has the same issue. This will be returned to PP. I'm still waiting for "bob" at PP to email me back to see what they want me to do or try.

My current conclusion is that something is wrong with the seals. Either damaged or wrong part number was put on there.

I got out my original SKF bearing and the inner ring slides along very nice on the seal with low resistance.


Here are some pictures... not sure if they help anyone.


Wide View - new PP FAG bearing installed in right side arm




Close up view of same showing seal on inner and outer ring

Old 05-13-2008, 08:36 AM
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Thanks for the pics.

So the problem is the seal of the new bearing is riding against the outer race?
TIA
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Old 05-13-2008, 08:48 AM
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the problem is that the seal should grab/lock on the outer ring and slip easily on the inner ring and it is doing the oposite.... creating the situation where the seal is moving... this is no no in bearing design.
Old 05-13-2008, 08:51 AM
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Thanks!!
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Old 05-13-2008, 08:53 AM
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Wow, that's bizzare. Will be interestting to see what the story is. But you'll be an expert at pulling/pressing bearings when you're done!
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Old 05-13-2008, 11:00 AM
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yes bizzare. Just got back from my mechanics place... he helps me with all this DIY stuff and provides parts in emergencies. We looked at other FAG bearings for Boxsters/etc. that he had and checked on PET and they also didn't slip where they should.. So he is going to have his supplier take'em all back and provide SKF. So far all the SKF we see work properly. I need to check my voice mail to see if FAG has called me back. Also, so far no "bob" from PP emailing me back on this yet.
Old 05-13-2008, 11:39 AM
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Now I'm wondering if these are purposely designed this way, for some unknown reason? My OEM bearing's seals definitely rotated on the inner shaft.

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'11 BMW 328iX, '18 Nissan Frontier 4X4, '92 Acura NSX.
Old 05-13-2008, 11:49 AM
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