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Rear Wheel Bearing Removal

Some may have seen my ongoing suspension knock saga. Anyway, I decided to remove the drivers rear wheel bearing and look around. Easier said than done. Spend $250 on the factory puller or go to Home Depot. There have been lots of descriptions but no pictures so I cataloged the removal and Home Depot tooling.
Wheel off, 30mm nut off, caliper off, rotor off, disconnected e-brake cable and here we are. Two pry bars on either side of the hub and a few healthy grunts.
Off comes the hub.

Next remove plate securing braking.
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Old 08-24-2004, 05:55 PM
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Next remove the braking assembly

Now you have a clean shot at the bearing inside the trailing arm.

Now for the tooling.
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Old 08-24-2004, 05:58 PM
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I started with these pieces.
1' of 1/2" threaded rod, 2-1/2" washers, 2-1/2" nuts, a flat piece of 1/4" steel, a 4"-3" pvc reducer and a 2 & 3/4" circle. The circle was the inside piece form a 3" hole saw which is a perfect fit. It was made from 3/16" steel and is the perfect size. There is about 1/8" space around the outside as to not damage the trailing arm. I also added some black tape around the circle to make sure it didn't scrath anything.
Now you just crank away. Problem was the 1/4" steel flat bar started bending almost right away. I was amasd at the amount of force requiredto pull the beaing. So I went back to the shop and changed the pvc reducer to a 3 1/2" galvanized coupling and changed the 1/4" steel bar to a piece of angle iron.
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Last edited by North Coast Cab; 08-24-2004 at 06:25 PM..
Old 08-24-2004, 06:02 PM
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Finished

Once this set-up was in place the bearing walked right out.

It was really very straight forward and easy. However, I'm a little concerned about getting the new bearing in so they'll be spending two days in the freezer while I head to Atlanta. A little heat around the trailing arm and the bearing should slide in.

John
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Old 08-24-2004, 06:04 PM
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i want one of those...
 
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Thanks for the pics John! My left rear wheel was making a LOT of noises on a drive today...this makes it easier to understand what needs to be done.
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Old 08-24-2004, 06:19 PM
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Finally! There has been some documentation on the 914 BBS about the puller, but this is great! On the 914, we just use the same thing going the other way to pull the bearing in if it doesn't go in nicely while frozen.

You just have to make sure you put pressure only on the outside of the bearing, not the center race or it will pull apart and be ruined. Lokks like your tool does that job.

Way to go. I wish there was some sort of bookmark for these kinds of posts. Please write up a little more detail and submit as a 911 tech article. There may already be a tech article similar for the 914.
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Old 08-24-2004, 06:21 PM
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bookmark - yes or a library section for the BBS - the search engine is rapidly being overrun by many many threads.

Thanks for posting how to do this. I may need to some day. Iddin't quite get the "bottom of the hole saw" identification tho.
Old 08-24-2004, 06:29 PM
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Randy,
What I meant by bottom of the hole saw was to take the peice that ends up in the saw and is the filling for the hole. For a 3" hole saw it's a perfect fit at about 2 3/4".

John
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Old 08-24-2004, 06:37 PM
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Cool

Absolutely beautiful.

Write it up and do as many pics. Get it into the tech tips on this website after contacting our gracious host!

This is the kind of info this board needs. Not another $500 use only once in a lifetime tool!


Good luck,
David Duffield
Old 08-24-2004, 07:32 PM
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Very nice write up, John...thanks for taking the time to post it! Congrats on your success...always feels great to mechanically prevail.
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Old 08-24-2004, 07:50 PM
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Milt, if you're using Explorer you should be able to bookmark this specific thread by adding it to your Favorites.
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Old 08-24-2004, 07:52 PM
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Very similar to what I used, but I opted for a 4" -> 2" cast iron reducer from the plumbing dept to extract the bearing into.

You can use the old bearing race to tap the new one in, just work your way around the bearing as you tap to make sure it goes in straight.

You should be able to pretty much 'flip' your tool for getting the stub axle back in, by having the washer on the outboard side of the hub.
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Old 08-24-2004, 08:19 PM
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Hey fellas,
Why not copy and paste the post into Word and save it on your puter in case you ever need it. File it with other pertinent Porsche articles.
Just my .02
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Old 08-24-2004, 08:41 PM
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Thx for explaining to use the hole saw to cut thru a piece of metal first.

996 - That's what I do with some posts -- extract them (into Email); some of the Email eventually migrates into Word files. But it would be nice to have it all conveniently on the Pelican site. It's all here... but some is not convenient to find with the search engine. Maybe Goggle will give Wayne free use of its engine....
Old 08-24-2004, 09:09 PM
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Good post John - Keep that tool handy just in case I need it! Hope it solves the knocking, but if not one more possibility down - there can't be too many more?
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Old 08-25-2004, 06:23 AM
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Brilliant post. Heroic to share such info. I 'm amazed that the bearing wasn't destroyed. I've read countless stories that they disintegrate with the removal operation and the factory tool.

Did you spritz the pieces with penetrant before removal?

Keeping a keen eye on this thread. I got my spring plate bushings yesterday to kill my knock.

Lee78sc
Old 08-25-2004, 07:38 AM
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Thank you very much I am about to do this in near future because my bearings keep rumbling noise.

Thanks!

PS: This should be put in pelican parts technical articles section.
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Old 08-25-2004, 07:53 AM
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Great post

Cheers!
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Old 08-25-2004, 07:47 PM
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Fabulous post! Thanks alot for the effort of documenting it!

I'll add this one to a wheelbearing bookmark. It's only a matter of time...

ianc
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Old 08-01-2005, 09:09 PM
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I don't think it hurts to bump this thread up once a year - might help folks who are new to the Board.
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Old 08-01-2005, 09:31 PM
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