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nixter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Vancouver BC Canada
Posts: 490
Difficulty shifting

My shifting has always been a little dodgy and in need of me taking it in for repair. In the last 2 days shifting from neutral to first has become quite difficult, neutral to any gear in fact, (while car is still) is difficult, especially reverse which causes serious grinding noises and won't even let me engage unless I engage a forward gear, then back to neutral, then reverse will engage. Once I'm moving however, shifting is smooth.

I've done some searching and I realise there's lot's of help to be had but I'm just curious if this sounds like something I might be able to fix from inside the car and avoid a tranny drop, which I don't have the facilities for.

Thanks guys,

Nik

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1980 911 SC widebody, Black/Black.
1993 BMW M5. Silver/Black.
Old 09-15-2004, 07:23 PM
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Location: Los Alamos, NM, USA
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Check the clutch adjustment; sounds like the clutch may not be fully releasing. Do this soon to avoid undue wear on the transmission. It is best to stop with the car in second gear or at least go through second before engaging first. Jim
Old 09-15-2004, 07:47 PM
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I always go through second. It's only difficult to shift when the car is not moving, once moving all is good.

Nik
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1980 911 SC widebody, Black/Black.
1993 BMW M5. Silver/Black.
Old 09-15-2004, 07:55 PM
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I'm no expert (I've only rebuilt one 915), but it sounds like your synchros have done what synchros do -- wear out. You might be able to stave off the inevitable for a short period of time by replacing the shifter bushings and changing to Swepco 201 tranny fluid. More likely, I think you'll find that those repairs are the flailings of a man desperate not to repair his transmission.

Chances are, if your sychro rings are shot, continuing to drive on it is further damaging the synchro hubs, which run about $150 each, give or take. (shrug) But then, you'll end up replacing at least a couple of those when you're in there anyway.

But as you've pointed out, this is definitely something you can do on your own. I didn't believe I had the facilities either, btw, but it's really not that bad. Do you have a garage? Maybe a friend's garage you could borrow for a couple weeks? I dropped my engine/tranny using a single floor-jack, some monster jack-stands, and a $20 furniture dolly from Home Depot. Because my garage is super-tiny, I didn't have room to pull the engine from underneath the car, so I just rotated it around to get to the tranny. My point is that, with a little creativity (and some desperation), you'd be amazed at what you can do.


Dan
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'99 911 (Adopt an unloved 996 from your local shelter today!)
Old 09-15-2004, 07:56 PM
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I live in the city, in an apartment, no garage. All my friends are likewise, except one but he's a good distance. If I had a second car it would be ok, but I don't.

Could somebody explain how to properly change the tranny fluid? I'm ordering the 101 book soon but I need to do something right now.

Thanks,

Nik
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1980 911 SC widebody, Black/Black.
1993 BMW M5. Silver/Black.
Old 09-15-2004, 08:03 PM
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There is not a synchro on reverse gear so this cannot be the cause of it "grinding". Jim
Old 09-15-2004, 08:10 PM
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Hmm ic. Well getting into 1st (from stand still) was never just a straight up motion, there was usually a bump. Shifting down to second ALWAYS has a bump (while driving obviously). The main problem here is that in the last 24 hours, getting into first or any other gear (while stopped) has become very difficult. It's like there's a bump i have to get past, I have to give the shifter at least 3 or 4 tugs/pushes before I can engage.

Again, once I am moving, everthing is smooth!

Nik
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1980 911 SC widebody, Black/Black.
1993 BMW M5. Silver/Black.
Old 09-15-2004, 08:29 PM
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Clutch maladjustment would look similar, in many respects. If the clutch isn't fully disengaging, then the synchros will be overworked in an attempt to bring the shaft up to speed, as they're working against the clutch, which is partially tied to the engine, if the clutch isn't fully disengaging. Have you tried double-clutching your downshifts? That's always a good idea, along with RPM-matching and learning how to heel-and-toe.

The clutch cable adjustment is something you can do from underneath the car; it requires that you be able to safely pick it up (or put it up on ramps, or crawl into a hole that you've dug under the car, or whatever), and you'll need a pair of mid-sized metric wrenches (15mm? 17mm? I forget, now) and a feeler gauge for the 1.0 and 1.2mm measurements.

If you don't have a garage, and no reasonably level place to set up on, and no tools to work with, however, this job may be something left to a professional.

Dan

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'86 911 (RIP March '05)
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'99 911 (Adopt an unloved 996 from your local shelter today!)
Old 09-16-2004, 06:45 AM
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