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cantdrv55's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
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Which bushings to replace?

I've decided I'm not going to go hog wild with mods. I'm going to avoid that slippery slope Nostatic. I only plan to autox and drive with fellow Pelicans occasionally. The P-cars and this BBS have all but dominated my free time, but no longer. I'm only going to replace the shocks, install turbo-tie rods and a Carrera cooler w/fan. However, I read posts about bushings all the time and I'm totally confused about which of them should actually be replaced due to wear and not for track preparation.

So, for the sake of myself and others equally confused, would someone in the know please tell me which bushings I should replace. Remember, I don't plan to go with thicker tbars or lower my car much below Euro spec.

After I attend to these things on my short list, I'll walk away from this BBS forever (yeah right).
Old 08-31-2004, 07:52 PM
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Uh.... which ones are worn out? Maybe the answer is 0 to replace if none are worn or so old they are hard or cracking.
Old 08-31-2004, 07:57 PM
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The car is 26 years old and still has the original shocks so nothing has been updated. It has approx 130K miles. Does anyone know if suspension bushings are on a maintenance schedule?
Old 08-31-2004, 08:03 PM
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I have a 1980SC and I replaced the front A arm bushing and rear spring plate bushings. The original bushings are rubber and sag with age. The fronts in mine had sagged to the point of the torsion bars starting to rub in the housing(110000mi).I used weltmeister street poly up front and neatrix in back. I greased the fronts to reduce squeaks but they are squeaking now (5000mi) There is a thread about installing them with grease fittings(Chuck Moreland) I used poly for low price and will install grease fittings next winter. The neatrix rears are squeak free. The only other changes I installed were used swaybars from an 86 for about $100 . I think I will have the Bilstien front struts rebuilt $50 each while laid up this winter also. The bushings tightened up the car and reduced rattles in the steering over bumps . Compare the road feel of your 79 to your wife,s 87
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Last edited by johnsjmc; 08-31-2004 at 08:11 PM..
Old 08-31-2004, 08:06 PM
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I would replace every piece of rubber in the suspension. They are not real expensive if you do your own grunt work -- err aI mean labor. It is a nasty job, but there are some shortcuts (heating the inside of the tr. arm mount). Use regular rubber if it is a street car. The chuck cartridges are supposed to be great on street cars but they are not cheap.

This brings up a serious safety issue -- how old are your rubber brake hoses? The fluid? Change those right now if they are old.

You sholud also replace your shocks if they are old.
Old 08-31-2004, 09:18 PM
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Bushings are a wear item and should be on your maintenance schedule. Fortunatly, they last pretty long.

They cold-flow and deform under the vehicle weight even if it has low miles. With the youngest tbar equipped 911s are now sweet 16, the oldest 40 years old (same as me!), most all are ready for new bushings.

PolyBronze are not the cheapest product, but you get what you pay for. The real cost of bushing replacement is in the labor, use the best parts available. You don't want to have to go back in do it again. Do it once, do it right.
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Old 08-31-2004, 09:34 PM
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Yes,

I agree with -Do it once, do it right.

The PolyBronze are very precise parts. I can't wait to install them, but I'll have to since I've succumbed to replating my spring plates and fasteners. Pics will come.

Brake lines and brake fluid change- by all means. Rebuild the calipers too. It supplies an amazing difference.
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Old 08-31-2004, 09:53 PM
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I've spent the last two years replacing every piece of rubber in the car... suspension, fuel lines, brake lines and oil lines. Every thing in my 35 year old car needed it. In regards to the suspension... completely different car! I started at the front with the A arms and worked my way back doing a new sector of the car every few months. Beware, every time you pop the top off something for a look you'll probably end up replacing something...
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Old 09-01-2004, 03:38 AM
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i drove my car last weekend for the 1st time post rebuild, and WOW!! it was a different car all together. instead of body roll you could actually feel the tires being the weak link.

chris call me and i can give you the down low on bushings and what i found on my 75k mile car.

just to remind i did, new t-bars all around (21/27 for approx 60% stiffer spring rate), elephant bronze's up front (now i can wear my elephant racing shirt w/o feeling like a fraud), sway bushings all around, strut tower bushings (polygraf), rear new polygraf spring plate bushes.

the turbo rods and shocks all around done previous.

toby
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Old 09-01-2004, 07:48 AM
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You should replace the following on a '78:
Front:
= A arm bushings w/ grease modification. Consider Weltmeister street hardness poly. Chuck's if you have the $. Get the grease that Weltmeister supplies. Very viscous and long-lasting.
= Ball joints: While you have the shocks out...remember to purchase fresh strut pins w/ new bolts and washers.
= Turbo tie rods.
= New inserts for Bilsteins
= Pull and regrease the steering rack.
= ??Bump steer washers?? Cheap to purchase.

Rear:
= Neatrix spring plate bushings w/ grease modification.
= Swingarm bushings. Tough to get at, but worth the work. Go OEM.
= Regrease/repack CV joints: it's only grease, new schnorr washers, allen bolts, and about eight gaskets. You have to do this.
= Bilstein shocks
= Droplinks for sway bars
= Sway bar bushings

Use the Search button to pull up everything from the archive. Make a binder full of this information and study it, highlighting the important and relevant information.

Best of luck,
John
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Old 09-01-2004, 08:42 AM
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Jdub: Du you have to install grease zirks with Neatrix bushings?
I thought they didn't squeak.
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Old 09-01-2004, 10:02 AM
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All of them.
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Old 09-01-2004, 10:09 AM
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Putting the zerk in there prevents squeaking. If I hadn't, they would have squeaked. ;>

The Neatrix can wear quickly. Greasing them gives you a fighting chance of not wearing as quickly, so here the thought is not squeaking but rather preventing rapid wear.

Also, if you do have a bit more money to spend buy Chuck's bushing kit for these. Neatrix will always be a stopgap fix since you are not vulcanizing it to the inner section nor counting on a tight interference fit on the outer surface to "pin" the bushing and thus use deformation of the bush as your "give" during suspension action.

John
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Old 09-01-2004, 11:51 AM
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I just removed a set of Neatrix from my rear end (I mean the car's rear end) and I was not impressed by the way they held up, or rather, didn't hold up. I think I would have been better off with plastic bushings. OTOH, one of my plastic (Weltmeister 'race') front A-arm bushings siezed and broke the a-arm control mount.
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Old 09-01-2004, 12:20 PM
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