what gauge stainless steel for workbench (in preparation for engine tear down)?

[911SCfanatic]

I'm beginning prepartion in my garage for my first engine disassembly. I'm building a few more shelves and cabinets, and I'm going to buy a service cart. The workbench I currently have is very sturdy. However, it has a butcher block top that I'd prefer to cover in stainless for easier clean-up and visability of parts.

What gauge stainless steel would work for this application? I don't want it to get dented easily, but I think it gets a lot more expensive the thicker it is. How much should I expect to pay for let's say a 3x5 sheet cut to size? I think I'd like it a decent thinkness because I'm going to use counter-sunk screws to secure it to the butcher block. Thanks.

[Matt77Euro27]

You will be suprised what stainless steel is going for these days. Basic steel prices have doubled in the last year. I looked into a sheet for my work bench and I balked. I believe it was over &70 for a sheet smaller than 3 x 5. 16 Gauge shouldn't dent especially with a butcher block subgrade. I ended up using masonite. It is cheap, replaceable, and you won't dull blades cutting on it. The shiny side up is reasonably tough also. Good luck with the project. If you find some cheap stainless post the price and details.

Matt

[Paulporsche]

I think you could go as light as 24 ga since the actual structure is provided by the existing butcher block top. It won't be thick enough for countersinking screws, though.You may want to use screws w/ finish washers, which have a shoulder on them that captures the screw head. You could laminate it to the block w/ contact cement, which would help prevent dents.

[radcon]

Try a metal recycler or scrap yard. I obtained some relatively heavy stainless( about 1/8") for about $20 for a partial sheet. You might need to call around. These places usually sell by the pound. Also might want to check any local business that do commercial ventilation work.

[widebody911]

I just did my workbenches. I used .070 on one bench, (don't know that that is in 'guage') and .125 on the other, which is probably too thick, but by golly you're not going to dent it without trying.

The copper is the area I weld on.

[Crachian]

CHEAP was the way I went. I got a roll of aluminum flashing (about $10) and some galvanized drip rail used in roofing (about $0.20 per foot) and glued it down with ligquid nails.

Works fine.

A tip: if you will have seams such as when you turn corners, try to match up the manufactured edges, not those where you made a cut. The seams will be almost invisible and won't cut you.

[Joeaksa]

Thom,

Thats beautiful! Need to get you to come over and do my shop!

JoeA

[911pcars]

I agree with Radcon. There are industrial metal supply houses (at least in larger cities) that specialize in buying and selling odd-shaped lots of steel, aluminum, stainless, etc. It may not be virgin when you get it but the pristin look won't last long anyway if you're doing any appreciable work on top of it.

If you don't have a supplier near you, try an internet search. Shipping may or may not make it cost-effective depending on size and weight.

Sherwood

[widebody911]

I bought my SS @ an industrial odd-lots place in Sacramento called "Blue Collar Supply". They sell this stuff by the pound, and the inventory is different week-to-week. They also shear the material for you for $1 a cut, which makes these kind of projects a lot easier.

All told, the SS, copper and aluminum materials for my workbenches ran about $800. There were a couple of economizations I could have done to bring the cost down quite a bit, like using sheet alumnim for the back splash instead of .125 SS

I looked up a 24"x24" sheel of stainless on McMaster-Carr - $112; the same sheet would probably be $25 @ the place I go to.

[JMPRO]

Why don't you just stick with the butcher block. Back in my market euiptment days i sold many buther block work tables to car restoration shops. They liked it because they could work on and assemble fine parts without the worry of damaging or scratching . After a few years of use, you take the block to a wood shop that has a big belt sander and resurface it like new.
Jerry

[911pcars]

If a non-metal surface is desired, you can use a solid core door with masonite facing (and without the door knob hole). Industrial supply companies like Grainger, McMaster, etc. sell bench-sized pieces in a wide variety of materials, both metal and non-metal (butcher block included). I haven't seen prefabbed SS though.

Sherwood

[jluetjen]

I just used some linolium counter top laminate from home depot. Very cheap and cleans up easily.

[Randy Webb]

you might want to go over to Sears and look at the thickness of their metal topped work benches. they may give you a wierd look when you get out the calipers and then walk out of the store mumbling to yourself....