lets talk about grimlens

[farmer]

as yall could see from my other post im trying to get my first porsche 911
so i was trying to do alot of research on the years that im intrested (early 69-74)in trying to find out the good and bad
of the makes for these years, with all the minds on this sight i was thinking that yall could put in your 2 cents on the good and bad and problems that exsist(sp?), in these years and if you could maybe explain why these grimlen's exsist and how they might be overcome
thx farmer

[Az911]

A search will give you more info then you will ever need.

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by farmer
with all the minds on this sight i was thinking that yall could put in your 2 cents on the good and bad and problems that exsist(sp?), in these years and

if you could maybe explain why these grimlen's exsist and how they might be overcome

how many $$$$$ do you have to spend ?

problems are overcome with $$$$

[JP911]

You may also consider picking up a few of the books that have been written on purchasing a 911. Many of them are available here, on Pelicanparts.com, but you can also check amazon.com. In particular, the Red Book is a nice resource for identifying the differences from year-to-year. Considering that you live in CA, you are looking at the right years which will keep you exempt from smog regulations.

If I were looking for a 911 to buy, right now, I would probably look for the most rust free 70-73 I could find that needed mechanical help (maybe even a roller), and I would swap in a 3.0 or a 3.2. Pre-74 cars are referred to as "long hoods" as they lack the accordian style body work that accomodated the higher impact bumpers. Good Luck!
-Jon

[Evans, Marv]

Rust & corrosion!!! I've had a '67, '72 and now I'm redoing a '69 E which I want to keep. Keep in mind you are asking about cars that are 30+ years old. They will probably have worn suspensions, engines & transmissions along with everything else. Since the cars weren't galvanized, rust is the foremost thing to be mindful of. The '69 I have had 138K on the engine, a growling tranny, frozen brakes, and suspension in need of rebuilding/replacing. I knew all of this when I bought it and am replacing all of that. But, although it was relatively rust free, it had rust in the front pan (a little), rear package tray (a little) and scale rust on the underside & topside of the floor pan. Also, things like tail light and signal housings will be corroded and perforated with holes. Wiring is also 30+ years old, so there can be issues there. I guess what I'm saying is be prepared to work on it & spend money on it. When I get through with mine, it will have all the rust fixed, a bare metal paint job, new suspension, engine, transmission, interior, etc. You might find a really nice one that you think doesn't need too much, but when you start peeling back the layers, you will probably be surprised. I just enjoy doing what I'm doling to my car & plan to keep it for a long time and enjoy driving it. Good luck!

[farmer]

thx for all the replys very helpfull,though i was hoping that one's experance with one of these years could shed some light on some prob's they all share
for example
just a example on the 72 911e they were known for the flasher unit's to go out
are on the 71 911t the trunk hood were known to pop the hinge
etc etc
once again i could,nt tell you if these are true, just example's of grimlin's that could have exisited
thx john

[Randy Webb]

do you need A/C - i note the bakersfield location.

The early cars are the ultimate. The later the year the heavier the car.

[farmer]

randy---
that would be nice
but if not oh well