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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 3
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I think I have warmup regulator (WUR) problems. System pressure is 70psi. Control pressure is also 70psi. There is no blockage in output of WUR to the tank, because routing control pressure fuel line around WUR gets control pressure of 0 psi. I have completely disassembled WUR. The only thing that required cleaning was the input screen. Everthing else looked great. After reassembly, I still get a control pressure of 70 psi. Is the WUR for sure the problem? Is there a way to checkout the WUR removed from the car? What specifically is wrong with WUR?
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Designer King
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Toronto, ON Canada
Posts: 5,499
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Hello and welcome.
This is a very common problem and topic here. If you use the search button you will find out a lot of info on testing , adjusting and replacing the WUR. If you get 70psi, it certainly seems like you have a WUR problem. For future reference you should indicate the year and any relevant mods you have made. Good luck and as you get it sorted keep us informed.
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Paul Yellow 77 Sunroof Coupe/cork interior; 3.2L SS '80 engine/10.3:1/No O2; Carrera Tensioners; 11 Blade Fan; Turbo tie rods; Bilstein B6; 28 tube Cooler; SSI, Dansk; MSD/Blaster; 16x7" Fuchs/205/50 Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s; PCA/UCR, MID9 Never leave well enough alone |
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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 3
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Paul,
Thanks for responding. I hated to start another thread on the warmup regulator, however I didn't find any discussion on what actual goes wrong with the WUR. 70psi control pressure would indicate that the WUR is completely blocked, but I can't find the blockage. This car was running great, then after sitting for 3 weeks it had this control pressure problem. Is there info out there on what goes wrong with the WURs? Ken 78 911SC 3.0 Targa (Talbot Yellow) |
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Designer King
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Toronto, ON Canada
Posts: 5,499
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Ken,
I see what you mean. Did you take the wur apart? There is a small chamber right below where the fuel lines connect. Apparently this can get blocked, or something can cause the thin metal diaphragm within to fail. What is the condition of the screen @ the fuel connections? It is possible the wiring that controls the lever inside the main chamber has failed. Have you tried knocking the plug to see if your cold cp lowers? That may be all it is. I would try that first and check w/ your gauge.
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Paul Yellow 77 Sunroof Coupe/cork interior; 3.2L SS '80 engine/10.3:1/No O2; Carrera Tensioners; 11 Blade Fan; Turbo tie rods; Bilstein B6; 28 tube Cooler; SSI, Dansk; MSD/Blaster; 16x7" Fuchs/205/50 Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s; PCA/UCR, MID9 Never leave well enough alone |
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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 3
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Paul,
I have completely disassembled the WUR. The small chamber where the fuel pressure is regulated is clear, the metal disks look good, I cleaned the screen. Maybe the plunger pushing on the bottom of the regulator disks is not letting fuel flow after I re-assemble the unit. What is this "knocking the plug" I keep hearing about? Thanks much, Ken 78 911SC 3.0 Targa (Talbot Yellow) |
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Registered
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targaken, the brass pin where the metal band attaches to the top lid of the WUR can be moved up and down to adjust the cold control pressure. you have to tap in down to lower the pressure, and if it is already too low. you need to open it up, tap it up and then retap it back down while staring at the gauge.
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poof! gone |
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Registered
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here is a pic of the adjustable WUR
you drill and tap the plug so you dont have to open it up if you pressure is low. you pull it up via the nut.
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poof! gone |
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Designer King
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Toronto, ON Canada
Posts: 5,499
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There is a small circular recess on the top of the WUR. It doesn't look like it but there is actually a steel dowel in it that extends down thru the top of the case, It is the point at which the lever arm with the windings is attached w/ a screw. If you put a punch on the center of that recess and tap it w/ a hammer you will be knocking that plug in, lowering the cold control pressure. You have to do this by trial and error and check w/ your gauge. Or you can tap a screw and a drift pin into it and make it adjustable.
Try tapping it it about 1/16". Scribe a line where it is now first to establish a starting point. Hook up your gauge and see if it is lower. If you get the cold setting right then the car will start and you can check your warm setting which is adjusted by a screw @ the bottom of the unit.
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Paul Yellow 77 Sunroof Coupe/cork interior; 3.2L SS '80 engine/10.3:1/No O2; Carrera Tensioners; 11 Blade Fan; Turbo tie rods; Bilstein B6; 28 tube Cooler; SSI, Dansk; MSD/Blaster; 16x7" Fuchs/205/50 Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s; PCA/UCR, MID9 Never leave well enough alone |
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Registered
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Your bi-metallic strip may be so worn out that is not affecting the spring and the diaphragm is getting the full pressure of the spring. I find it hard to believe that one day the pin just needs adjustment. Something probabaly failed like the strip and now it doesn't work like it should. My warm Control pressure goes to 60 psi even when I adjust the pin with the electrical connector plugged in. So I'm sure my strip doesn't work ike it should also.
Mike |
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Registered
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There are guys out there who rebild WUR's so there must be a source for the bi-metal strip. Does anyone know where to get these or is there a special part # for them? I know mine is shot for sure.
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Designer King
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Toronto, ON Canada
Posts: 5,499
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Simon,
Maybe it is the wiring, not the strip.
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Paul Yellow 77 Sunroof Coupe/cork interior; 3.2L SS '80 engine/10.3:1/No O2; Carrera Tensioners; 11 Blade Fan; Turbo tie rods; Bilstein B6; 28 tube Cooler; SSI, Dansk; MSD/Blaster; 16x7" Fuchs/205/50 Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s; PCA/UCR, MID9 Never leave well enough alone |
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