Misc. maintenance etc. (a bit long)
 

So I finally managed to get a spot in the garage in my building and I brought my car from Boston to DC over the long weekend. Nothing too exciting since I realized my garage is DARK and it doesn't seem to get any air. On top of that, I think the "stuffy" populace of my apt makes it impossible to wrench unnoticed and I'm sure I'll be reported to the Nazis (management) for some violation, such as topping off my air freshener...

(Dorkis, I'll be checking the site for wrenching parties soon)

Back to the car: it appears to be upset by lack of abuse I usually give it b/c all of a sudden it needs a lot of minor attention in several areas. I'll be glad to hear your opinions about some:

1. Even before I left Boston, it behaved funny. After two uneventful days, it decided to backfire like never before. Huge "bang" from the back. Plus smoke. Oh dear. Turns, but d/n start. Decided to open the airbox and sure enough, the pop-off was really popped off! It blew it right out of its epoxy stronghold. (Don't really know why the pop-off didn't do its job. It normally works fine. Didn't seem to be stuck shut, feels a bit oily even.) Learned something new about CIS and sealing. Read all about it, but who knew?

First question, since the PO's epoxy gave out, which one should I be using? Can I find it at a Home Depot or Loews?

2. My brakes. I know they were due for a bleed, but now I've got more issues. Started out w/ having the brake pedal stay high, with EXTRA high pressure. There was none of the usual give. Are they seizing? (Didn't think the high pedal would be the result, rather the stench and hot wheels/calipers) From research, it may be the seals or the rear flex hose, right? The lines are stainless and fairly new, so I'm not sure that collapse is the culprit. It does seem to be the pads gripping the rotors, b/c in one instance, on a slight incline, the car d/n roll at all.

Here's the weird part: it seems to happen to 2, 3, or even 4 corners all at once. Then it goes away. In certain stretches it d/n happen at all. I've had this in other cars, so I know what to look for. Each stop I started to "feel up" my wheels. Sometimes hot, sometimes cool, but that goes for all of them. Would a wheel get noticeably heated from a caliper or rather from a wheel bearing/hub problem? If it was the bearing heating up the whole thing, it wouldn't be intermittent, right? (I had all 4 bearings done less than a year ago, although I do hear squeaks, but it may be the pads.) Since it's several at once, could it be the master cylinder?

3. High idle. Sometimes the idle stays in higher rpm. About the 2000-2500 range. Have to pull back the gas pedal to lower it. Really annoying between shifts when the revs climb while in neutral. I've had this before but I did a half-ass job of *curing* it by adding another throttle return spring. Due to the force w/ two springs, it really couldn't be a sticking linkage, could it? (It moves easily w/o the springs)

I read about a switch that gets *switched* when you let go the gas, and looking right at it, it clicks nicely every time when I let go the throttle. Can't be that, I guess. What else makes the rpm wander? The points? I have the "maintenance kit" from Wayne which has a new rotor, would that affect the idle? Anything to look out for when replacing the rotor? (Things I may easily break?)

4. Fuel filter. It came in the maintenance kit. I've never replaced one before. Any tricks or precautions?

5. How does one remove the aluminum dash trim? (The one that holds the basket weave or any other covering.)

6. Brake lights. Weird but true. My cheapo 3rd brake light works, but my R-lights' brake lights stopped working. Both of them. Funny b/c the blinker and driving lights work fine, just not the brake lights. I'll open them today, but I'm hoping it's just the bulbs. So, where do you guys get festoon bulbs? Radio shack ok?

I'm sure I'm forgetting something, but that's all for now. Thanks for the help. (Rolling up my sleeves, opening a beer...)

Re: Misc. maintenance etc. (a bit long)
 

Dorkis are at the ready. ;)

Funny thing about the brakes. I'm about to install (had it now for 3 months) a 3rd brake light. I found that the brake lights do not come on if the key is not in the ignition and turned. Weird.

4. I think all that needs to be worried about is using flared nut wrenches for the fittings, and have enough rags and ventilation for any fuel that spills out.

6. Mine doesn't come on either unless the ignition is on; bulbs can be found at any parts store (Autozone, Advanced AutoParts, NAPA). Could be bulbs, could be corrosion, could be loose connections. If 3rd brake light works then the brake switch should be oK. Also depending on how the 3rd brake light was wired it could also be the fuse (i think).

With regard to changing the fuel filter. Surround the area with rags to catch spillage. Most importantly, let the car sit overnight before removing the filter. This should allow residual system pressure to dissipate and reduce the ammount of fuel squirting out when you loosen the unions.

Dave,

I have several friends who keep their 911s in apartment garages and convinced the management to let them install a temporary metal 2-car+ garage with locks, alarm, and lights. What goes on behind closed doors, no one knows.
Get a couple of garage/metal building contractors to give you an estimate then go to the management.
The arguments are; security, a place to wax your beauty (reason for good lighting), and you want additional secure storage space. I’ve heard of one with the interlocking tile laid down and the management was so impressed they asked to show it to prospective tenants.
One has to abandon the garage if he leaves – no big deal. One has to have it dismantled – no big deal.

If I were in this situation, I would choose a space in a corner (one less wall to buy, span to the next column (existing corner support), have two sprinkler heads (safety), near the ventilation, pay for good electrical outlets and lighting, and wire in phone and cable. A good security system is a must. I like the three-fold approach; deterrence to a break-in, scare off, and remote sensing. Depending on the climate, an air conditioner – heat pump might be in order. In most situations, I would leave space for air circulation. There are some places where a continuous running dehumidifier is necessary.
Of course I’m one of those nuts that would pay more for my garage than my apartment.


1. When you have a big backfire like that, the first test is to lift up on the air filter cover while the engine is idling. If it dies, go look for a vacuum leak or broken air box. If you have poor running check for the sensor plate sticking or not concentric in the bore.
Someone else must answer the epoxy question. I’d rather have it blow out the pop-off than damage the air box.

2. That is the usual signs of brake fluid in the pedal assembly. This causes the plastic bushings to swell and the pedal(s) stick. Do the finger test in the pedal assembly and master cylinder bellows.
I prefer to replace all the bushings with original plastic just for this reason – they will stick and warn of a master cylinder failure.

3. This could be related to a vacuum leak (1.) or a sticking pedal (2.) or other.

4. Before you start, confirm the two filters have the same fittings. Always use two flair nut wrenches on the filter and fittings. The filter is unidirectional.

5. I don’t know.

6. I don’t understand the question.

Best,
Grady

mine had a big backfire that also blew out the POV. my mixture was way off. when my idle wouldnt drop, i found the bushing at the post that comes off the tranny, that allows the throttle linkage to take the corner up to the CIS was dry and brittle. cleaned and lubed fixed the prob.

i was covinced that it is more important to stop a car than to make it go, so i went all out on my brakes, new rubber lines, rebuilt the calipers, new MC (mine leaked into the cabin) and full bleed. safety first.

the fuel filter comes out easy, check to make sure you have the right one, my flarenut wrenches were worthless, i used quality adjustables. i had a fire extinquisher handy, just in case. you will need to purge the CIS afterwards.

Thanks for some really useful troubleshooting tips guys.

Grady, by having brake fluid in the pedal assembly, do you mean the master is leaking? Is that something worth rebuilding or just replacing? Are there "upgrade" master cylinders or should just stay w/ the stock? (I have stock, non-S, calipers.) I was very happy w/ the feel and performance until now. Are you saying the bronze bushings would not give any warning of failure?

Cliff, that is a good spot to check for the linkage bind. Haven't thought of that one. What do you mean by purge the CIS? Purge it of what? Air? How?

Dave,

Yes, when you find brake fluid in the pedal assembly that usually indicates a leaking master cylinder. The determining inspection is to see if there is any brake fluid in the bellows on the master cylinder. If there is any brake fluid in any of these places, replace the master cylinder with a new Ate part.

If you like the feel of your brakes, don’t change anything. My recollection is that you have a 19 mm “Tandem master cylinder with warning system” 901.335.012.02. The reason that some change to larger (20, 21, & 22 mm cylinders) is it reduces the pedal travel but increases the force required. This is desirable for “heal-toe double-clutch downshifting” on the track. I prefer the larger one because it lets me modulate the brake at the limit of traction with pedal pressure and not much pedal movement. You have to have a sensitive brake foot to do this without locking up a tire.
How it works on the street is a matter of personal preference.

A good maintenance/repair would be to rebuild the pedal assembly, replace the master cylinder, replace the four rubber brake hoses with OEM, lube and cycle the pistons in the calipers. Inspect for any damage to the brake pipes (twisted, rust), and a proper bleeding with good brake fluid.

Yes, the bronze bushings don’t give any warning of brake fluid leakage and impending master cylinder failure. The swelling of the plastic bushings is sort of a “last gasp” warning of a slow master cylinder leak although I’ll bet a large percent of master cylinder failures are detected this way.


To purge the fuel system of air, simply lift up on the sensor plate while the engine is not running but the key is on. One or two seconds will usually do. More will quickly flood the engine. You can usually hear the nozzles change sound.

Cliff is right on about the bell-crank alongside the transmission. Those plastic bushings should be changed and lubed also. There is another pair of the same bushings on the top of the engine.

A “while you are there” is to inspect/replace the throttle “cushion” where the throttle linkage enters the tunnel by the torsion bar tube. The part with the metal housing can appear OK yet the rubber cushion still has failed. Another is to make sure the hinge on the accelerator pedal is OK. This is an opportunity to clean and lube all the ball cups in the throttle linkage.

When everything is all said and done, check for full throttle. Set it with the plastic stop behind the accelerator pedal. It should JUST get to full yet not stress the linkage when you push hard on the accelerator.

All of this is a good weekend DIY project if you are prepared.
If anyone wants more detailed instructions, say so.

Best,
Grady

It almost seems redundant (b/c I'm continually thankful for the help I receive here) but a big thanks to all of you.

Dave - I'm at home working on my Carrera for the next 5 days (my vacation is taking time off to work on my car. Yes, I need help.) If you want, stop by some time and we can take a look at your brakes/electrical problems. Can't help with the CIS 'cause that's all a big mystery to me. PM me if you're interested.

dave, sounds like grady has it covered.

i would like to add that the linkage on the side of the tranny is easy to disconnect. it is held on by a tiny cotter pin. BUT you cant really slide it out because something is in the way. i cannot remember what, suspension part, axle, heat exchanger. but i remember i couldnt slide it completely apart. so i just rubbed it clean with some fine sandpaper, and lubed it with some grease and put it back. it was instantly better. i also opted for a new MC from pelican, rather than the rebuild kit. for a few bucks you save alot of work.

Vash,

Re. Transmission throttle bell crank

Aah, you are correct. The solution is to unscrew the shaft from the transmission. Then you can replace both plastic bushings. Heat, cold, and penetrating fluid work great. Don’t use ViceGrips on the bearing surfaces of the shaft. Grip just outboard of the inboard bearing surface. The little flats on the end of the shaft are probably worthless to get the shaft unscrewed. Once out, make sure all the surfaces of the shaft are clean and burr free. The original was cad plated.

If you can’t get the shaft out of the transmission, get the old bushing out of the bell-crank piece (or drive the remnants to the center) and split a new plastic bushing on one side with an X-ACTO knife. Put the semi-split bushing in the transmission side with plenty of lube and perhaps some heat to get it set. Make sure it is free to rotate easily.

Remember, there is a thrust flat washer on the outboard end. Use a new cotter pin.

Best,
Grady

damn it, grady! where were you 6 months ago? that is great. brilliant.

cliff

On the fuel filter R&R, try moulding several layers of aluminium foil underneath the filter sort of in the shape of a bathtub, and line the tub with a bunch of paper towels.
if the fuel spills (and it will) the foil and paper towels will catch it and keep it out of the engine compartment. Or you can do what I did and just put an old towel down which caught some of ther gas but not all. why is it I always think of a clever way to do something after I already finished doing it the dumb way?

BTW aluminium foil is great for wrapping your heat exchangers to keep oil off em when doing a valve adjustment too.
Can you tell I like aluminium foil?